Gears & Sore Rears

Mixed feelings

2009-10-30T22:08:00.000-07:00

October 29th/09 - Key West, FL
Double Tree Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,730 km

We left Marathon south bound on our very last leg of the journey. Sunny skies and the wind behind us, just as brother Greg had wished for us when we visited back in Bay City, Texas. Record high temperatures for this time of year. I think it was 90 degrees or something like that. All the Floridians are complaining but Deby and I find it quite comfortable...strange, eh.

Hwy 1 immediately took us over the seven mile bridge to Bahia Honda, our tires whining as we travelled easily in high gear. The palm branches chased us as we passed by, sailing down the road. Through Big Pine Key, Ramrod and Summerland Key, just to name a few. Then mysteriously and without conversation, we began to slow. Both Deby and I began to loose our expression of elation and we began to doddle. Slower and slower we rode. At one point we stopped to watch several iguanas at the roadside and at another point we stopped on a bridge for some time to watch a shark lazily swimming in the emerald waters. We talked and realized that neither of us wanted this trip to end. What was supposed to be a victorious occasion was now an occasion that we approached with mixed feelings.

We continued on through Sugarloaf Key, Boca Chica and finally to Key West. Immediately we rode to the monument marking the Southern most point of Continental USA for a photo shoot. We somewhat forced a smile and had another tourist take a photo of us. Again, mixed feelings.

This trip has been long, but it feels like we started it yesterday. This trip has been ripe with hardship, challenges and even pain, which all seems to have happened a thousand years ago...all forgotten (well mostly!). This trip has been full of beauty, oneness with nature, friendship and memories that will last forever.

There is no medication for our mixed feelings, nothing that can remedy those pangs. The only hope we have is to cycle from Alaska to Grand Forks next spring to complete the trip, north to south. Too bad I didn't think of that before we started. (Jury is still out if I'm going along on that leg, but there is a very strong possibility!).

Calypso, my bike, has been retired. I gave the 25 year old bike to the owner of the bicycle shop here...'Fixed Gears'. He said he knows a tall hippie that could use him. Calypso will spend his final years rolling through the sea breezes under the palms. Couldn't be a finer retirement for a machine that has served me so well.

October 31st we fly home to Grand Forks. Thank you all for coming along with us. It has meant a lot to us to keep our friends and family informed of our adventure, and we thank you for the many comments of encouragement along the way. May all your adventures be as wonderful!!

Closing In

2009-10-30T21:48:00.000-07:00

October 28th/09-Marathon, FL
Ranch House Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,650 km

Tonight we are staying in a small motel in Marathon. We cycled south through several Keys en route; Travernier, Plantation, Windley, Upper Matecumbe, Teatable, Indian, Lower Matecumbe, Fiesta, Long, Duck, Grassy, Crawl, Fat Deer and finally Stirrup Key where Marathon is located.

Many small communities. Very picturesque ride with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right. Brilliant green emerald waters.

Most of the Keys have bicycle paths adjacent to the Hwy. We took the paths when it suited us but mostly we stuck to the Hwy. It's hard to make time on the paths and the bicycle paths have dangers of their own. Motorists coming from the rear and making a right turn are rather oblivious to the fact that a cyclist may be beside them and motorists approaching the Hwy from a side street don't always look for a cyclist on the path. Thus, cycling on the path does tend to take some of the joy from the experience.

In Islamorada we talked with a group of ladies after having lunch at a restaurant. We learned from them that crocodiles from the southern tip of Florida are beginning to show up in the Keys. That's crocodiles, not alligators. Crocodiles are saltwater creatures and more aggressive than alligators - interesting. We had an enjoyable conversation the these ladies. They seemed to have a lot of fun together and both Deby and I thought they must have some pretty wild wine and cheese parties. I say this because I think they are reading this and laughing because it's true. Come on girls, ain't it so?

A four foot iguana ran along beside us today. Amazingly fast and powerful animals. Big racket, rocks flying. Beautiful reptiles. I hope they are native here and that people just don't let their pets go.

Tomorrow we will end our trip at Key West, the southern most point of the continental United States; southern most point of North America for that matter. Deby is happy with the achievement; I am sad that it will be over, but if we go any further we will drown.

Swimming with the fish

2009-10-28T10:01:00.000-07:00

October 27th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park

Took the day off and went on a snorkeling charter out to the Enchanted Reef. Both Deby and I loved it. 1 1/2 hours in the water swimming with the fish.

The water world is so undiscovered to so many, so much beauty. We swam among the schools and along with the schools of fish. The tens of thousands of fish didn't mind our presence and many of them even appeared curious of us. I don't think there is anything more accepting than a fish. (Unless of course it's a shark, that thankfully we didn't see)

Our dive buddies were Adam and Michelle and we very much enjoyed their company on the boat. More American hospitality. Thank-you both!!

Tomorrow we continue south. We are not sure what Key we will end up on, but I know we are going to enjoy another day.

The Keys

2009-10-28T09:47:00.000-07:00

October 26th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Mileage: 35 Km
Total mileage: 6,570 km

We left this morning south on Hwy 1 from Florida City. Very busy hwy. Everyone who wants to go to the Keys has to use this road, and Miami being so close, you can imagine the traffic. We made it to Key Largo and it's a good feeling to be so close to our final destination.

Met two other cyclists in the park this evening. Jesse and Angelina had just left Miami and in a round about way were headed for Oregon. They were heading to Key West first and then taking a boat to Fort Myers. From there they were going north through Florida and then west to California. From California, north to Oregon.

They looked a little ill prepared and confused at the end of their first day as they struggled to put up their tent in the dark. I tried to share some wisdom with Jesse as to what to expect in days to come as they travelled. Such things as equipment failures, repairs, maintenance, weather, campgrounds, or lack thereof, don't get discouraged, things always get better, yada, yada, yada. I could tell he really wasn't listening. He had become brainwashed by well intentioned bicycle shop employees.

A rare few bicycle shop employees ever tour. They may have taken a trip on a bike, but an expedition is a whole different story. They may cycle 50 km everyday after work in preparation for a 100 km race on the weekend, but it's not the same! To make an expedition easier you have to listen to people who have done it before.

I felt I had to do something for Jesse and Angelina, but I couldn't figure out what. I thought of at least giving him my Walmart spare tire, Deby and I being so close to the end of our journey. Then I looked at the onion skin rear tire on my bike and thought otherwise. I might need that spare in the next 100 miles. In the end, Deby and I gave Jess and Angelina $20 each with a word of encouragement. It had meant so much to us when times were dark that there were people out there that knew we could do it.

Gators, snakes and panathers

2009-10-28T09:32:00.000-07:00

October 25th/09 - Florida City, FL
EconoLodge
Mileage: 180 km
Total milage: 6,535 km

Tonight we are staying at the EconoLodge in Florida City. We thought we would be staying in Homestead, but somewhere we crossed a street and ended up in Florida City.

Long ride today, 180 Kms. Deby was bound and determined not to camp in the Everglades and it so happens that from Naples to Florida City it is almost all Everglades! We passed more campgrounds travelling through this area than we have on the whole trip, but no, on we went. The idea of alligators and snakes was bad enough for her, but when we saw several road signs allerting motorists of panther crossings, that cinched it.

Riding through the Everglades was beautiful. We had a tailwind, a bright sunny day, and the traffic was light. Gators like this kind of weather as well. Hopefully not because the cyclists are out, but because they like to sun themselves in the grass and for the same reason they float at the top of the water. We saw lots of them. If there is water, there truly is a gator here. Deby was also amused (Not!!) by snakes falling out of trees into the canal beside the road as we rode by.

The ride through the Everglades was like watching an I-Max movie. Many species of beautiful exotic birds flew from the water and the trees as we passed by. They flew beside us and they flew in front of us. With the wind behind us, we rode in silence hearing only their song and the wind over their wings. A day of jaw dropping beauty. I wish I knew the names of the different types of birds we were seeing. All I can say is big, various colors, long long legs and long long beaks.

While the wildlife was jaw dropping we had to keep our mouths shut. The bugs at times rained on us. Interestingly enough the different bugs have their own locales and they don't mix. First we had the clouds of little guys. The ones that fill your eyes and nose. Later we had the bugs that bleed their guts all over you as they strike. Lastly we had the flocks of round beetles that hit you like a rock and come along for the ride.

Princess got a trophy beetle in the eye. Her eye swelled up. She's kind of got the 'Festis' look from 'Gun Smoke,' but she's healing.

Tomorrow we plan to be on Key Largo. The final run.

Pressing on

2009-10-28T09:06:00.000-07:00

October 24th/09 - Naples, FL
Gulf Coast Inn
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,355 km

Tonight we are staying in a beautiful hotel in Naples. $59 for the stay. These low season rates are fantastic.

Naples is a gorgeous place. Every tree, every bush, every blade of grass is manicured. I imagine the residents demand it that way. This is no ordinary city. I have never seen so many $80,000+ vehicles in any one place at any one time.

We left Punta Gorda this morning under sunny skies. Hot today. Temperatures were in the 90's. We travelled south on Hwy 41 through Tropical Gulf Acres and several other communities to Fort Myers.

At Fort Myers I had a flat tire. To make a long story short, due to the location of the hole in the tube I couldn't patch it. No problem, I always have a spare tube. I took my spare out of its box which was labeled 27" only to find the tube was actually a 26". Hooped...it didn't fit. As I sat perplexed, a fella, later known to me as Dennis Willy, approached me and said he would take me to the local Walmart to get another tube. His wife Marlene stayed with Deby and they made girl talk. Fixed the tire thanks to Dennis and Marlene and were on our way.

Continued south through Estero, Bonita Springs and on to Naples. Again, the towns were very close together, but the ride today was more rural than yesterday. Heavy traffic, but no problems.

Editorial time - I cringe when people state that cycle touring must be fun. It is not fun. Of a long list of adjectives that describe cycling 'fun' is at the bottom.

Cycle touring is peddling up high mountain passes that never seem to end; peddling up those passes when it's to hot, or when it's to cold, or in the pouring rain and having to fix a flat halfway up. Cycle touring is running out of water in the desert and having to go on for hours because there is just no one. Cycle touring is eating peanut butter and honey sandwiches for supper because the town you were going to get groceries in didn't exist. Cycle touring is not showering for days as you travel through the middle of no where. Cycle touring is sleeping who knows where. And then there's the wind.

Cycle touring is surreal as you coast through creation seeing the sights and smelling the scents. Cycle touring is community; meeting the people as you travel, hearing their stories and enjoying their company. Cycle touring is hardship; the hardship that makes the rewards greater.

For everything cycle touring is, it is not fun. Cycle touring is tough and gruelling, but very, very addictive.

City riding

2009-10-23T21:22:00.000-07:00

October 23rd - Punta Gorda, FL
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,254km

Leaving Palmetto we travelled south on Hwy 41 through Bradenton, Sarasota, Osprey, Laurel, Nokomis, Venice, North Port, Port Charlotte, Charlotte Harbor and finally to Punta Gorda. Nearing the end of our day I knew we were in luck when we crossed Charlotte Harbor and from the bridge viewed lots of hotels along its south shore being Punta Gorda. Tired of trying to find campgrounds we got a room at the Best Western with an ocean view. Beautiful community.

The entire day was city riding. The towns may have different names but each and every one of them are linked together. It was a very different kind of riding day, but interesting with lots to take in. Multi-lane congested traffic all day, but everyone was polite and gave us the room we needed.

I find that if you ride out into the right lane a bit you are visible to motorists at a greater distance and they will go around you. If you hug the curb on the right side of the road they won't give you an inch.

The motorists around here are well behaved. It is a matter of survival. There is so much traffic that rules of the road and speed limits have to be obeyed to keep the flow continuous. If you can ride a bike among motorists in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and survive, riding here is a pleasure.

Apart from Punta Gorda, Sarasota was particularly beautiful. We rode along the water front, the parks and marinas.

The day was slow going. Lots of traffic lights to negotiate and lots of exits and merges to navigate. Average riding speed was down throughout.

Sunny, warm, good to be alive!

Frustration

2009-10-23T20:57:00.000-07:00

October 22nd - Palmetto, FL
Frog Creek RV Park
Mileage: 130 km
Total Mileage: 6,153 km

Sunny skies, cool morning, cycling south from Brooksville on Hwy 41. Cycled through Masaryktown, Growers Corner, Land O' Lakes and on into Tampa. Interesting ride with nice communities, but congested with traffic which increased as we neared Tampa. The drivers were courteous and gave us lots of room.

Tampa was easy to get through, north to south, still on Hwy 41. However, it took a long time. Again, the drivers were all courteous with one exception. One lady yelled at Deby to get on the side walk. Deby yelled back, "Get a bike ya fat pig." Well...not really. That's what I told Deby she should have said when she told me the story later.

From Tampa we continued south on Hwy 41 through Gibsonton, Apollo Beach and Ruskin. Our final destination for the day being Palmetto. Along the way we began to see more cattle and even some agriculture. The agriculture consisted on strawberry fields and some strange crop covered in netting. I don't know if the netting was for sun protection or to keep the birds off. Still mostly trees and forested areas between communities.

Deby has come a long way. She drafts me like a pro, so close that on occasion she hits my back panniers with her front tire. A bit unnerving when your going 24 km per hour, but I know that if she is that close she is doing it right. Looking back it's like a mosquito that I just can't manage to swat. We look good riding together. On lookers must think that we were Olympians back in 1920.

Deby has graduated from a snails pace, having to get off the bike every 10 kms to a cyclist who can ride fast for 128 kms per day. For our American friends that's 80+ miles a day. We get off the bikes about every 1 1/2 hours now to gulp down a litre of water and get some circulation back in our arses.

In Palmetto we search for a campground. None to be found. We were turned away from the RV Parks because the wouldn't take a tent. Finally we found Frog Creek, an RV Park who's management has some sense and they gave us a patch of grass. Albeit a $35 patch of grass. Very, very nice place.

Every experience a good experience

2009-10-23T20:45:00.000-07:00

October 21st - Brooksville, FL
Oaks Motel
Mileage: 127 km
Total mileage: 6,023 km

I think someone died here. Not only the smell is an indicator, but the whole atmosphere of this place. I am staring at a bug right now that is as big as a Chihuahua.

I am writing of the shack we are staying in, part of the Oaks Motel. The small shack is so old that I'm sure the pilgrims built it. Surrounded by huge Live Oak trees with moss on the branches hanging down like curtains in the darkness it is a backdrop for a horror movie. I keep thinking that we are going to be locked inside and corn fed until sausage making time.

We ended up here after putting in a lengthy day battling the wind. No campground in this town and this being the only hotel or motel. I'm not going to be thrilled if we pass a Days Inn leaving this town tomorrow. Every experience is a good experience though, it's kind of humorous.

We left Cheifland this morning south on Hwy 98. We cycled through Otter Creek, Inglis, Crystal River and Homosassa Springs. All interesting communities. Crystal River had loads of RV Parks. The winter Floridians are beginning to arrive.

We continued on to Brooksville. Approximately 20 miles from Brooksville we were again treated to a very pretty ride. The road narrowed to two lane and the big trees closed in. Periodic ranches at the roadside and hills. This stretch was inland. Most all of the coastal riding has been flat.

Tomorrow we will head south on Hwy 41 hoping to find the easiest way through Tampa. We don't want to have to muscle any 4 wheelers.

Manhattans

2009-10-23T20:16:00.000-07:00

October 20th - Cheifland FL
Chiefland Campground
Mileage: 115 km
Total mileage: 5,896 km

Camped tonight in an RV Park in Chiefland. Arrived here by cycling a 20 mile bike path from Cross City. The bike path information was given to us by Greg back in Panama City Beach.

The bike path was a wonderful deviation. Quiet and peaceful. It followed an old rail bed and lead back into the trees giving us a genuine forest tour. At one point we crossed a trestle over a beautiful river. Lots of high volume rivers in Florida. The fresh water has a brown tint, but is clear. The odd snake crossed the path. Man, they can move when they have too. Deby wasn't so impressed with anything about the snakes.

On the path we met fellow cyclist, David Newman. David directed us to the RV Park where he and his wife Emily were staying. We went on our way to the Park.

In the evening we visited with David and Emily. David introduced us to Manhattans which we found very favorable. I think I'll retire the Hurricanes and Margaritas for a while.

We talked of cycling and motorcycling as David is very interested in both. David told us to look up the website crazyguyonabike.com as we would find many kindred spirits there. Apparently, the site is a collection of extensive cycling expeditions. The evening passed and all of us enjoyed each others company.

Deby and I started cycling this morning from Hampton Springs east into Perry. We then continued south on Hwy 98 through Tennille and then into Cross City. The Hwy here is 4 lane divided, but lightly travelled.

(Coming into Cross City around lunch time, Kim spied a 'Buffet' sign. He can spot them miles off. This restaurant also had a sign saying it had been established in 1928 so he figured if it had lasted that long the food had to be great. It was, and we had a nice visit with our waitress. Our waitress had told the owner about our trip and when I went to pay she just handed me a post card of the Cypress Inn Restaurant that she had written, "Have a Wonderful trip" on and said the meal was on her. Wonderful and generous people have made this trip a great experience!!)

Most of the day we travelled through trees. Some ranching has begun to appear. There also appears to be a substantial forest industry here. Many forested areas have been replanted and numerous logging trucks pass by.

It always gets better

2009-10-23T19:46:00.000-07:00

October 19th - Hampton Springs, FL
Rocky's Campground
Mileage: 152 km
Total mileage: 5,781 km

Bundled up this morning we continued east bound on Hwy 98. Along the coast we rode through Carrabellla and Lanark Village. Beautiful seaside homes and homes nestled into the stately trees as we rode. Clear skies, the cold front having pushed out the moist air.

Inland on Hwy 319 to Sopchoppy and then back to Hwy 98 through Medart and Newport. It was here that Princess got a little testy. Having put in quite a few miles already she was worried about making it another 41 miles to Perry before dark. There is nothing between the two centres. (After just having another flat tire on Kim's bike, the kind that he fixes and then as he's putting air in you can hear leaking again, so he takes off and fixes again. Not to mention that we're back into swamp area with gators, snakes and now bear signs to boot. I'm really not prepared to have to camp in the middle of nowhere because it gets dark before we can make it to civilization!! Testy would be the polite terminology!). I told her to relax and then cycled well ahead of her to remove myself from the aura of anger.

East bound, we cycled on a quiet Hwy through heavy forest that at times resembled a jungle. At points the huge Live Oaks would stretch their branches across the Hwy so we could cycle through the tunnel they provided us. Meanwhile, Deby took up the rear watching for bear and alligators.

We ended our day after 95 miles, 152 kms. We cycled into a gorgeous campground 5 miles west of Perry. We arrived before dark (but just :) ) Princess had really stepped up to the plate. What a woman. (What a motivator fear is). We had pizza at a nearby gas station and the lady attendant gave us an enormous cantaloupe for the heck of it. Things always get better.

Cold front

2009-10-23T19:23:00.000-07:00

October 18th - Eastpoint, FL
Gulfview Campground
Mileage: 128 km
Total mileage: 5,629 km

Tonight we are staying in a rare find, a campground. Once plentiful they are now far and few between. One of the campers/tenants here told us that the owner of this campground just about had it sold for $4,000,000 when the hammer fell and the crash occurred. Thus, my suspicions were confirmed that the once plentiful campgrounds on this coast have all turned into condominiums. Oh well, all is well for tonight.

We are camped beside another 'Chong' just as we were back in Pagosa Springs. This one however, is much more amusing and entertaining. He told me of his shark fishing expeditions in the Gulf. He said that the sharks pull him around in his old kayak until they tire and then he pulls them to shore on the end of his line by paddling his boat in. Hard to believe, but another camper/tenant backed his stories. I think you would have to be high to do this kind of fishing, but only having known this 'Chong' for a short while, I think he is ready to do this kind of fishing at anytime. An airbrushed picture of 'Chong' fishing in his kayak would be a beautiful mural on a 1970 Ford Econoline Van.

Another tenant we met here seems to be dirt poor. When I asked him what he did for a living I could tell he was making up a job in his head to tell me of. He was concerned about us tenting in this Florida cold snap and gave us an electric heater to use in our tent. Funny how some of the people that have the least care the most.

Meanwhile 'Red Dog' roams this campground. A skinny hound that won't let anyone get near him. Chong told us that a hunter left him behind 2 years ago and although Red Dog won't come to them, they leave food out for him. Interesting place.

Cold front, today's daytime high was 64 degrees. The low tonight is supposed to be 42 degrees. We were all bundled up for riding. Strange, we never thought that we would be using the warm clothes we brought along in Florida. Supposed to be back into the 80's pretty quick though.

A fantastic ride today. Very scenic with light traffic. East bound we rode on Hwy 98 through the adjoining cities of Panama City, Cedar Grove, Springfield and Callaway. Then through a forested stretch to Mexico Beach. To Mexico Beach and beyond we had the road to ourselves. It seems that a lot of traffic must go north to the interstate from Panama City.

Mexico Beach is back on the coast and the ride was right along the beach through Beacon Hill and St. Joe Beach. The ride continued beach side to Port St. Joe and then inland through the trees to Apalachicola. Nice variety of riding all day long.

We saw signs today warning motorists to watch for bears crossing the roads. I had heard before that Florida has bear problems. I guess it's true. Princess was none to happy to learn from the guys at the campground that this area has the highest concentration of black bears in Florida. Maybe we will have to eat bear the next time we dine out just as we ate alligator back in New Orleans.

Over and out.

Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort

2009-10-23T18:54:00.000-07:00

October 15, 16, 17th

October 15th we spent the day between laying on the beach and the hotel Tiki Bar. On the beach when the sun shone and in the bar when the periodic showers came down. Deceived by the cool breeze off the Gulf we burnt our previously covered ivory white hides to a cinder. I guess that's why they have cases of sunscreen for sale in the hotel. (What's worse is that I've packed around a big jug of it in my front pannier for miles and left it in the room instead of using it on our bods!!) Rather than using aloe vera to sooth the pain we used Margarita's and found that they work better.

October 16th we visited the public library and caught up on the blog. On the way back to the hotel we dropped in at "Emma's Too" a small restaurant and had a great lunch. At the restaurant we met with two new friends, Greg and Detra Callahan. Crazy, but almost what I thought to be a mirror image of Deby and I. Greg and Detra were very close to the same age, had two kids the same ages as our two boys, and had just relocated to Panama City Beach from Denver just as Deby and I had relocated from Saskatoon to Grand Forks. Greg had recently retired from his 22 year career with the Federal Prison system just as I had recently retired from the Saskatoon Police Service. Detra had a part time job, just as Deby is going to get a part time job (in his dreams!!). It was uncanny.

We had a long and enjoyable conversation with Greg and Detra and then went on our way. Greg said he would be by our hotel later and take us to a bike shop to get some parts that we required. We ended up having a nice afternoon together. Greg not only gave us a ride to the bike shop, but also gave us a tour of Hwy 30A that we had missed yesterday. It truly was a beautiful drive through beach side communities of Seaside and Grayton Beach (There are many more beach side communities than just Seaside and Grayton, each having it's own distinct architecture, but we can't remember all the names). If you remember the Jim Carey movie "The Truman Show," it was shot in one of these communities.

Greg said to us at one point, that for him, something was going to come from meeting us and that in all likelihood, Detra was going to have to pay for it. We all laughed.

October 17th I did bicycle maintenance in the morning. Had to oil and work the brakes on the bikes due to salt corrosion. The salt in the air while riding around the Gulf has been a little tough on the metal parts which come into contact with each other.

In the afternoon Greg took us for a tour of Panama City along the coastal drive. Stately old houses and marinas full of beautiful boats. Thanks Greg and Detra for the company, the conversation, the information and the mini immersion into the area. Look forward to seeing you again sometime.

Tomorrow we ride!

White sand beaches

2009-10-16T09:54:00.000-07:00

October 14th/09 - Panama City Beach, Florida
Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort
Mileage: 90 km
Total mileage: 5501 km

Tonight we are staying at the Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort in Panama City Beach. Not only tonight, but also October 15th, 16th and 17th. We couldn't handle just riding along the white sand beaches and emerald seas any longer.

It all started today when we stopped for a break at Inlet Beach. We had been cycling inland for a while and met a local who told us that we had missed the best beaches in Florida by not cycling further south along Hwy 30A. He was very insistent that we turn back and cover that stretch. Well, it is very difficult for a cyclist to make a u-turn and undue mileage gained, so with some guilt we continued on east bound hoping he wouldn't see us.

Still feeling guilty we attempted to resolve the situation and took the scenic byway at Panama City Beach. It was here that we surrendered to the ocean and decided to stay a few days at the resort. The staff extended our stay by giving us 4 nights for the price of 3. $79 nightly, off season rates. We plan to drink margaritas, lay on the beach and do some carb loading.

We left Fort Walton Beach this morning and cycled east through Destin. Traffic lights and lots of vehicles, but still new and interesting country to us.

In Destin a fella named Dan pulled over in his vehicle and flagged us in. He was very interested in where we had come from and where we were going. (Turns out he grew up in Winnipeg and moved here when he was 18). He was very impressed and said that he loved to see people doing what we were doing. So impressed that he insisted we take $20 to have lunch on him. Lunch cost us $14 and Deby got her $6 spending money for the week. All kinds of cool people in the world.

Beyond Destin the traffic thinned out. We cycled through pine forest and away from civilization for a short time until reaching Inlet Beach where we got our lesson on what we were missing which led to our stay at the beach.

We are we?

2009-10-16T08:37:00.000-07:00

October 13th/09 - Fort Walton Beach, Florida
Marina Bay Resort
Mileage: 112.2 km
Total mileage: 5,411 km

Pulled on our wet socks, wet cycling shorts and wet shirts, packed up the rest of our wet stuff and off we went. Overcast day, temperatures eventually reaching 80 degrees. Nice day for cycling.

Travelled through Orange Beach and on to Perdido Key. It was on Perdido Key that we crossed the Florida State line. Running for home plate now, but it will still take a while to get to Key West. Florida is a big state.

Again, park like riding to Pensacola, but beyond there it got busy with traffic. We continued east bound, Hwy 98 being right on the coast now. The color of the ocean has changed now to crystal clear and emerald green.

Difficult to know where you are here. The small towns are continuously adjacent to each other without separation. I find that you have to look for the water towers sometimes to know exactly where you are. Lots to look at though, and it makes the cycling interesting. I'm sure it won't take long though before we are longing for the open road rather than traffic lights.

Raining again at the end of the day, so we are at a beautiful hotel right on the ocean. Unbelievable off season rate of $45.99 a night. Drying everything we have in the hotel laundry. This certainly is the rainy season here.

Scenic tour

2009-10-16T08:21:00.001-07:00

October 12th/09 - Gulf Shores, Alabama
Gulf State Park
Mileage: 92.7 km
Total mileage: 5,298

We left Tillmans Corner this morning travelling due south on Hwy 193. We wanted to see Dauphin Island and then take the ferry across Mobile Bay to Fort Morgan. The road was lightly travelled and very picturesque through treed communities. Big, long causeway and bridge to Dauphin Island.

Dauphin Island itself is very impressive. Quaint, well treed and big unique homes. Large marina with expensive boats. Lots of money here.

The ferry to Fort Morgan took approximately 45 minutes. Didn't see any dolphins this trip but got a close look at lots of offshore oil rig platforms. Very interesting. I had no idea that there was so much drilling in the Gulf of Mexico.

At times today, it almost looked like we were riding through a rain forest. Thick pines with Live Oak trees and tropical underbrush. Very park like.

From Fort Morgan we travelled to Gulf Shores and the State Park campground. The sign upon entering the camping area of the park reads, "Do not feed or aggravate the alligators." I couldn't help but wonder what kind of half wits they had to put a sign like this up for. Probably the half wits that end up leaving the park with only one arm.

After setting up the tent we headed to the local store for groceries. Walking out with our bags the rains began. We attempted to wait out the rain under some shelter because the rain showers typically don't last long. This however, was not a typical shower and it only came down heavier as we waited. We peddled the three miles back and were more soaked than soaked when we arrived back at the campground.

Not to be defeated, we moved the tent from the hole we had set it up in, to higher ground. Then, looking forward to a hot supper we found a small sheltered area under the overhanging roof of one of the campground buildings. The kitchen was set out and 'click, click, click' with the lighter - my trusty little Coleman stove decided its life was over. Cold slab of ham, cold creamed corn and off to bed. Oh well, things always get better.

Charades

2009-10-16T07:58:00.000-07:00

October 11th/09 - Tillmans Corner, Alabama
Baymont Hotel
Mileage: 102.5 km
Total mileage: 5,206 km

Staying at the Baymont Hotel tonight in Tillmans Corner just south of Mobile, Alabama. We attempted to find a campground, but couldn't. I knew we were going to have a problem when I had to play charades with a gas station attendant to try and make him understand what a campground was. A light seemed to go on in the non-english speaking attendant's head and he pointed down the road saying, "Several, several." We continued on in the direction of his finger with some hesitation. What I didn't realize until later was that I had mentioned the word RV during our game. We ended up passing 'several' trailer sales outfits, but no campground. Darkness encroached and we found refuge in this hotel.

Leaving Gulfport this morning we continued east on Hwy 90 through more beautiful beach country. Through Biloxi and then Ocean Springs.

We crossed several long, high bridges which can be treacherous on a bicycle, but Mississippi has thought well enough to incorporate pedestrian/bicycle lanes on theirs. Not like Louisiana, and in particular New Orleans. In New Orleans a cyclist/pedestrian is not even allowed to cross any of their bridges. Shame, shame!

Twenty six years ago when I cycled this trip I did defy this bylaw. I cycled over the worst of the worst of their bridges. Not naively either. I knew I wasn't allowed, but I was a rebellious youth. Up, up and up the bridge I peddled totally blocking one of the two north bound lanes. Horns blew and motorists screamed 'woe to you'. A car load of black guys cruised up beside me in the left lane. They had a different attitude. Now, we are all brothers, but at that time, on that date, the bunch of us became closer than close. They were so happy to see a civilly disobedient white guy for a change that it was all high fives, thumbs up, and hollers of encouragement. I flew down the mountainous bridge ecstatic. The New Orleans police officer at the bottom wasn't quite as impressed.

Back to the present. Deby and I cycled from Ocean Springs through the pines to Gautier. From here, across a long bridge to Pascagoula. Again, back into the pines to the Alabama
State line. Traffic steadily decreased as we continued east, motorists at this point choosing to take the interstate.

In Alabama the geography changed again. We began to peddle up and down grades which we hadn't done for quite some time. Almost made us feel like we were out of shape. I couldn't help but think how the property values must increase at the top of a small hill. Every foot of elevation above sea level here must have a high value attached to it.

The road through Theodore and finally Tillmans Corner was lightly travelled, windy and very scenic.

Pines

2009-10-11T21:44:00.000-07:00

October 10th/09 - Gulfport, Mississippi
Gulf Haven Campground
Mileage: 127.6 km
Total mileage: 5,104 km

It took us a while this morning to get out of New Orleans. As you go east the city becomes more sparse and rural, but it goes on forever.

Bayou country almost all the way to the Mississippi State line. Just before entering Mississippi the geography changed though. Solid ground finally appears and with the exception of the odd bayou, the country turns into pine forests. So much so that there is logging in the area and tree planting indicates the different ages of the forest.

We peddled on with both sides of the road lined with pines until we reached the Bay of St. Louis. At the Bay of St. Louis, Hwy 90 comes back to the Gulf. Here we followed the beach through Christian Pass, Long Beach, and finally Gulfport where we spent the night.

Who would have thought that Mississippi is a beach goers paradise. The sea here is aqua blue and the white sands go on forever. Across the Hwy from the beach are majestic old homes with towering trees and large manicured yards.

This area was not spared from last years hurricanes though. A local told us that all the empty lots had beautiful houses on them before the storms and there are a lot of empty lots.

Tonight we are camped in the Gulf Haven Campground. Very nice place. One of Long Beach's finest, Tom, told us how to find it. Again, camping is limited in the area. Can't understand it.

Great cycling day. A cold front moved in and the temperature was 75 to 80 degrees. Hard to believe, but that temperature is getting a little chilly for us now. Had to put on a jacket as soon as we stopped for the day.

Deby had a flat tire caused by a shard of metal. I had a flat caused by who knows what. The flats slowed down our progress a bit today.

Sight seeing

2009-10-11T21:20:00.000-07:00

October 9th/09 - New Orleans, LA
Royal Hotel, French Quarter

Hopped on a street car and went to Washington Street and hiked to Magazine Street. Magazine Street is out of the tourist area and more typically the New Orleans life style. Interesting shops etc. Deby loved it.

The street car ride and the hike through the neighborhoods was really interesting. The architecture and the old, old houses were jaw dropping. This whole city is old and bylaws prevent radical changes. Every residence had a history.

Later in the day we took a bus tour. The tour guide spoke Louisianian, but I caught half of it. Deby caught the rest. Amazing place. It would be nice to rent a pad here for a month and tour every day. You just can't grasp it all in a stop over.

One of the areas we toured is one of the most prestigious areas in the US. Of course we looked at it from the outside. No one is allowed down the gated street unless they live on it. Huge old mansions, so prestigious in fact that the guide said if someone decides to sell their house the neighbors buy it so that they can decide who the next resident will be.

We also toured the 9th ward, the area that was so badly flooded by Katrina. Brad Pitt, sexual orientation unknown as I think Angelina is probably just a front, is building new houses there. Despite his humanitarian efforts, the victims of the flood are not moving back. Would you? Having sat in the heat on your roof top for two days thinking that you were going to be swept out to the Gulf of Mexico at any time! Good luck! We were amazed to see that the levees were only 18" concrete walls and the expectation was that they would hold back the ocean.

I think that it is crazy to rebuild anything there again and that Brad Pitt should be building those people houses on higher ground if he is so inclined. The tour guide was thoughtful enough not to give Brad Pitt all of the credit for his generosity. He said that he is working with a Canadian, last name of Holmes, and said that Brad Pitt is the name, but Holmes was the soul behind the houses being built. He also pointed out that other groups such as Habitat for Humanity, Jimmy Carter, Mennonite Disaster Relief and several other church groups are also building houses as well.

Since Katrina the population of New Orleans has dropped from approximately 500,000 to 250,000. A census still has to be completed. 1,800 people died in the flood. The crime rate has apparently skyrocketed and they still have lots of problems to conquer. I haven't seen a cop in this city who looks happy. I think they are all worn out.

Mud wrestling

2009-10-11T20:54:00.001-07:00

October 8th/09 - New Orleans, LA
Royal Hotel, French Quarter
Mileage: 79.3 km
Total mileage: 4,976 km

Started out east bound on Hwy 90. Busy with traffic, but no choice in the matter, closing in on New Orleans.

Looking at the scenery I narrowly missed an alligator on the shoulder of the road. Deby, behind me, didn't notice him until the last second either. Just a bit startling. Lucky enough he was dead having been hit earlier by a vehicle. Have to look further down the road in the future. I guess the suckers really do come out of the ditch once in a while. It made us angry with ourselves for not having seen him earlier. So angry in fact that later, in New Orleans we ate alligator to prove our dominance over the beasts. Tastes sort of like pork, except you have to spit the teeth out.

We continued on. Traffic increased and so did the communities. Typical of nearing a large centre.

At one point during the day, I slammed on my brakes hoping to slow enough for a large ridge of broken pavement in front of me. Deby, riding right behind me swerved hard right to avoid collision. She managed well and instead of hitting me chose a large mud hole at the side of the road. What a trooper. The old girl went down hard. Witnessing the horrendous impact out of the corner of my eye, I worried for the bike. However, we adjusted the gear and everything was OK. Deby on the other hand, looked like a mud wrestler and kind of turned me on. She recovered and kept her distance for the rest of the day. I'm glad she drinks her milk.

Peddling through New Orleans was quite a treat. Motorists here honestly have no idea of what a cyclist is. Neither of us at any point on this trip have had cars pass us in such close proximity. Finally we decided to ride further out in the lane so the oblivious 4 wheelers had no choice by to go around us. They didn't like it, but we were safer and it worked.

We caught the Gretna Ferry and crossed the Mississippi. Beautiful river tour of the city. On board we met with two commuter cyclists and they were gracious enough to take us to a nice hotel in the historic French Quarter. We rode through the city together and said our farewells at the Royal Hotel. Thanks Ken and Dina.

The Royal Hotel doesn't mean expensive, it means old. Probably approaching 200 years old. Fascinating place. I am writing this blog from a sheltered area in the small court yard as the rain is pounding down. We don't know much of it's history, but it was first built as a residence, and then at one point became a washateria before becoming a hotel.

I have to make a point of reading up on New Orleans history. As Canadians we should feel more comfortable here than we know because the Cajuns who got the boot from Canada were a big part in its early development.

We spent the evening walking Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. Too many Hurricanes. Deby got more beads than any of the other girls. (That's the too many Hurricanes talking since Deby only got beads in his dreams).

Sugar Cane

2009-10-11T20:12:00.000-07:00

October 7/09 - Gray, Louisiana
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 117 km
Total mileage: 4,897 km

Took the old Hwy east from New Iberia this morning, Hwy 182. Wanted to stay off of Hwy 90 as long as we could. Hwy 90 is a state Hwy, but might as well be an interstate for all the traffic. Hwy 182 was very scenic. It passed through all the small towns and gave us more of a feel for the country.

Sugar cane galore. The hwy was lined with it. The harvest is just beginning and tractors pulling buggies and semi trailers were full to the brim. We travelled through Louisiana plantation country and viewed many classic roadside mansions and estates dating back to the early 1800's. Enormous homes with park like yards and probably some dark histories.

We were forced back onto Hwy 90 just west of Morgan City and continued east bound. Wide enough shoulders, but busy with fast traffic. A bit of a shock as most of the travelling we have done thus far has been on peaceful lightly travelled roads. Lots of honking horns. Most honks are for encouragement and approval, other honks are from motorists who just plainly dislike cyclists. You learn the difference. I wave frantically at all the honkers hoping that they think I think that they recognized me. It must pick off the malicious ones which is my only satisfaction.

Hwy 90 is not scenic. It takes too much concentration. You have to get off on the side roads to be immersed in the country side.

We pulled off into the community of Donner for refreshments. Here we became celebrities. The people at the Community Centre couldn't believe what we were doing. One of the ladies said that you hear of people like us on the radio and see people like us on TV shows, but you never think that you will meet them in person. I tried to explain that in the cycling world this was no big deal, but to no avail. The rest of the people chanted praise to us, but most of it was in deep Louisianian and I couldn't understand much. I think that Deby caught more. I did understand though, that they were going to pray for us and that is always a good feeling.

We stayed at a hotel in Gray, not because we didn't want to camp, but campgrounds are getting increasingly difficult to find around here. They're not difficult to find if your a motorist, but if you're a cyclist at the end of your day and someone tells you that there is a campground just 30 miles down the road, it just doesn't work.

Anyway, we had a nice conversation with a guy at the hotel. He was from Florida and due to the recession was in Louisiana trying to find a job on an off shore drilling rig. Louisiana is the off shore drilling mecca. He gave us some good pointers on gators and snakes. One rule of thumb, he said, is that if there is water there is gators. Good advice to heed, but a little bit concerning. Louisiana is all water. Secondly, he told us if you are walking in the bush to step on top of the logs and leap from them rather than just stepping over them. Snakes enjoy being under a log and could be startled and bite someone simply stepping over. He brought his camping gear, but was hesitant to camp in Louisiana because of the lack of solid ground. A real nice guy...I hope he finds the job he is looking for and wish him well.

Talked with Scott the next morning. Scott is a biochemistry professor in Shreveport. Scott told us some very interesting information about Louisiana and in particular, the area we had travelled. Information that you just don't get from a tourist brochure. Thank-you Scott!

Alligator nests

2009-10-06T21:29:00.000-07:00

October 6th/09 - New Iberia, Louisiana
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 94 km
Total mileage: 4,780 km

Woke up this morning hardly having slept all night. The heat and humidity in the tent last night was almost unbearable. The inside of the tent dripped and Deby and I wiped sweat off our faces with our towels all night. Morning couldn't have come quick enough. High temperatures had remained through the night with not even a breeze.

Talked with some contractors this morning. They told us to watch out where we put up our tent. They said that the gators are very territorial and you don't want to be close to a nest. Why doesn't someone put up signs for dumb tourists. Anyway, the only bites we got were mosquitoes. They swarm in clouds here.

On our route today, they was also a private alligator hatchery. We were told that the nests are spotted from helicopters, a flag is dropped on to them and they are marked with GPS. Later the eggs are taken from the nests and incubated in the barns. The alligators are fed and cared for over winter and then butchered for meat, hide and heads. 14% of the gators are tagged and put back into the wild. I imagine that this is a greater percentage than would have survived naturally. Sounds like good management...everybody wins.

Peddling north we continued through the swamp for the next couple of hours. Then the trees appeared as the land started to solid up. Ranches and farm land with the exception of a small area near Esther where it looked like Everglades. An intriguing forest of pines appeared with water throughout the underbrush. Rather unique in the area.

Near Abbeville and east to New Iberia it was all rice and sugar cane. The sugar cane was impressive, growing as thick as a corn field and 8 to 10 feet high. I mistook sugar cane for corn in Texas. When sugar cane is young it looks similar.

A local told us the rice fields are flooded for the crop and then after harvest crawfish are put in the field. The crawfish eat the rice straw and are harvested when they mature. Ultimate efficiency.

The Safari

2009-10-06T21:05:00.000-07:00

October 5th/09 - Pecan Island, LA
Mileage: 123 km
Total mileage: 4,686 km

We are camped tonight in an RV Park in Pecan Island. Again, Pecan Island is not really an island, it is a ridge which was pushed up in the middle of the marsh. One of the locals told us this ridge which the town is on, was pushed up by an ancient hurricane.

Travelling and camping thus far in Louisiana and on the Bolivar Peninsula has been tough. Services either don't exist having been destroyed, or are only half way built back, possibly functional, possibly not. I just keep telling myself while travelling through here that we have it a whole lot easier than these people have had it over the past year.

These last two RV Parks have not really been RV parks. They seem to have been set up in haste for contractors and don't have washrooms or showers. Yes, Princess is getting a little rank again. All the contractors have their self contained units.

Tough start to the morning. No coffee...(or breakfast, or bathroom :( ) Johnsons Bayou's store and gas station had both been blown away. Cycled 50 km to Cameron. Gas station had been rebuilt and was functioning. Most other businesses in town were half way there. The two restaurants were functioning from trailers. Drank up, had a bite to eat and continued on.

Miles and miles of beautiful yard sites with empty cement pads, or empty pilings where houses used to be. A few have been rebuilt, most have not. A local told us that a lot of people won't rebuild because new building codes make it cost prohibitive. As a result a lot of these lots now have 5th wheels or trailers on them.

Grave yards were not untouched either. Deby and I cycled by several where the graves were damaged, some of the caskets had obviously floated up, lost forever in the marsh.

On the lighter side, we stopped at the library at Grand Chenier. The library consisted of a double wide. We stopped here to ask where the store was. We conversed with the staff for a while as they were very interested in our trip and shared information about their area. One of the ladies ended up taking our photo for the town paper.

We continued on for 50 km between Grand Chenier and Pecan Island. This part of the ride was totally through marsh including the Rockefeller Sate Wildlife Refuge. Absolutely beautiful, bayous throughout and canals along side the road.

Something you don't see or hear from a car are the alligators. We saw alligators in the ditch beside us and constantly heard them pounding through the reeds and into the water as we passed by. There are lots of them. The staff at the library told us we would see them today because on warm clear days they come out to sun themselves.

Turtles jumping off of every log, snakes slithering, birds of every size and color. It was like a safari. The swamp surely is an awesome place. Just as people fall in love with the desert, I can see how people fall in love with the swamp.

The deluge

2009-10-06T16:01:00.000-07:00

October 4th/09 - Johnson Bayou, Louisiana
Radon RV Park
Mileage: 133 km
Total mileage: 4,563 km

Tonight we are camped in Johnson Bayou, LA. The campground is gravel which puts it just barely above the bayou. There has been so much rain here lately that we had to find a high spot in the gravel to put the tent on and the corners of our small 2 man tent are almost in the water. A lady in one of the 5th wheels here said there are lots of domestic cats and alligators around, but the alligators probably wouldn't bother us. I hope the alligators are more civil than the tortoise was between Encinal and Alice.

Johnson Bayou suffered greatly from hurricane Ike as well. A local told us that her and her husband lost everything in hurricane Rita, and then while rebuilding, lost everything they had gained in hurricane Ike. Now she said that they live in a 5th wheel on their lot and are prepared to evacuate anytime the need arises. This whole area has been devastated, not just once but twice.

Setting up the tent, a deluge from no where came down. The rain continued on and off throughout the evening and we did some creative drying inside with the shammy and cook stove. It ended up quite comfortable, but steamy.

We started our day with the wind at our backs, leaving Crystal Beach. A fast ride along the sea to High Island. High Island is not actually an Island, but at one time must have been a massive rogue dune. The town is built on this hill which appears out of nowhere. High Island did not suffer any hurricane damage as a result, which begs the question, "Why doesn't everybody else build here?"

We continued on with the wind, to Winnie. Moving inland the trees again began to get larger, and by Winnie, there was large growths of what appeared to be Ponderosa Pine. We hadn't seen pines in a long, long time.

From Winnie to Port Arthur, we again noted large parcels of ranch and farm land. At one point, and only one point, we noticed one farm yard with a beautiful hedge of caragana trees. In all our cycling we hadn't seen a caragana and thought that these people around here must think that this is quite an exotic bush. This farmer must be known locally as the 'crazy, try anything' guy.

We entered Port Arthur and found it to be quite the industrial city. In fact, riding through it to the south, the hwy leads right through the oil and gas refineries as if you were actually in them.

Leaving Port Arthur east bound we travelled up and over the Sabine River. At the top of the bridge, the first monsoon hit. It rained so hard that we should have had our shampoo out. Again, the water was so warm it was quite pleasant. As we rode on, the winds that we created cycling dried us out for the next downpour.

Entering Louisiana the road narrowed to 2 lanes, no shoulders and bayous on both sides. Hwy 82 was lightly travelled and very peaceful.

Rodes were premium today. Almost all new pavement with the wind behind us throughout. Record time!!

Weather forecasting

2009-10-06T15:32:00.000-07:00

October 3rd/09 - Crystal Beach, TX
Crystal Palace Hotel
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 4,430 km

From Surfside we cycled north along the coast to the Galveston Island Bridge. Again, we cycled into a headwind. Slow going. We began to see hurricane damage from hurricane Ike which occurred in September 08. Mostly just damage in this area, not total destruction.

Just prior to the bridge we stopped at a roadside store for some refreshments. Here I learned from one of the locals that a six pack of beer and a joint would be good medicine for my back problem. I think I'll stick with Advil unless it gets really, really bad.

As we drank our coffee, I looked at a cloud mass coming from the south east. It looked ugly so we decided to stay at the store until it passed.

We have learned from locals and from experience, that this is definitely the rainy season along the Gulf shore. We have also learned that the weather here does not seem to come in as a front but comes in as localized cloud masses, which can pack quite a punch. Not all areas will get these showers, but all areas will get some at one time or another. In any case, the cloud hit us and a pounding rain ensued. The rain was more or less over in about 20 minutes as expected. That's usually as long as these showers last.

Proud of our new found weather forecasting expertise we left the store, somewhat dry and began cycling across the bridge toward Galveston. We weren't quite smart enough to realize that the cloud we had avoided was also north bound and we cycled into it. Unless we were to stop cycling for the day, we would have to continue in the rain which we did. Luckily the rain is warm and not so uncomfortable anyway.

Galveston Island is very scenic, passing among huge beach homes and fancy condominiums. Again, little to no protection. People don't seem to learn from experience. 26 years ago when I had cycled this area a hurricane had wiped this entire area out.

We cycled along the sea wall at Galveston, noting repair work that was still going on from Ike last fall.

Pretty city, lots of people enjoying their Saturday on the beach.

We took the Bolivar Ferry to the Bolivar Peninsula. From here we continued to cycle along the coast, now in a north east direction.

The Bolivar Peninsula was hit very hard by hurricane Ike. We learned from a local that, just on the Peninsula, 3,600 homes were either totally demolished or damaged beyond repair. From the local paper we learned that Ike took 10 lives and an additional 4 people went missing and haven't been located. Lots of devastation could be seen. Repairs were in the works and as we travelled we could see lots and lots of pilings where houses had been. One of the locals who was rebuilding told us that after the devastation, trucks hauled debris 24 hours a day for days on end. I didn't ask, but wanted to, why they were rebuilding there??

We stayed at the Crystal Palace Hotel, which was not a 'Palace' at all. It was a dive, but it was our only choice since Ike had wiped out all the hotels and only a portion of this place was open. So it was our home for the night, having made a wise decision to stay out of the weather. The incoming clouds from the Gulf were black and stacked up to the heavens. During the night there was a horrendous storm, but we had gotten dry after our cycle in the rain and stayed dry.

Deby was not as impressed with the local paper as the paper was with a local youngster's trophy Alligator kill. This young fella shot a 10' 8" alligator in the area we were riding through. Something Deb probably would have been better off not reading about or seeing the picture of!

Back to the Gulf

2009-10-06T15:16:00.000-07:00

October 2/09 - Surfside, TX
Surfside RV Park
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 4,326 km

This morning we had brunch with Greg and Abby before parting ways. "Brunch, is nout breakfast, is nout lunch, but is a very good meal with a slice of cantaloupe at the end." Any quote in this blog taken from The Simpson's is strictly taken without permission.

At about noon we left Bay City cycling into a strong headwind, using lots of steam. Deby and I had both come down with colds, however this seems to be the best country for the treatment of that ailment. There is no such thing as a dry cough with this humidity. We were both hacking up phlem everywhere. Lucky thing we weren't cycling in a group.

Again, we took Texas farm roads. Very well kept and lightly travelled. We pushed on to the junction near Lake Jackson, many small attractive communities in between. Very large Texas shade trees here, pastures and farming.

From the Lake Jackson area we went east back to the Gulf.

Pushing into the wind the trees began to disappear and the land flattened out into a sort of marsh. We cycled on toward Freeport and near the Gulf this area became very industrial. My Princess got a little testy here. (Did he mention how windy it was and that he got tired of going slow so no more wind break for me!!! Yup, got testy!) It was a hard day and navigating through this industrial area seemed to take forever. Finally, we crossed the bridges and came down to the coastal community of Surfside.

Surfside is a community on stilts on a sandbar. Absolutely no protection from the sea here. Amazing where people choose to live and/or build vacation homes. It appears that years ago already, the natural dunes must have been flattened out so that people could get closer to the water, destroying what little protection there originally was.

We could have stayed on the beach for free, but had no desire to para sail in our tent, so chose the RV Park where there was some wind protection. It was a nice stay.

Blessing

2009-10-06T15:06:00.000-07:00

October 1/09 - Bay City, TX
La Quinta Hotel
Mileage: 88 km
Total mileage: 4,246 km

Beautiful calm morning. Left Port Lavaca with the sun shining. Crossed the bay of Port Lavaca over an approximately 1.5 mile bridge. North of the bay it was fairly industrial, but then increasingly turned into ranching country.

Our travels took us away from the Gulf and the trees began to get bigger. We turned west on a Texas farm road heading for Blessing, TX. What Texas calls farm roads are far from what we think of as farm roads and are actually what we would think of as main hwys. In fact, some of the smoothest and most effortless travelling that we have had has been on these roads.

En route to Blessing there was beautiful agricultural land and pasture land. Farm yards were pretty to pass by as they were surrounded by huge Texas shade trees.

We entered Blessing and found it to be a quaint and humble town in appearance. Again, with its large trees, smaller homes, and main street, it appeared like a refreshing step back in time. Aptly named.

After lunch in Blessing, we cycled on to Bay City. Bay City is quite large. We got a room at the La Quinta Hotel and met up with my brother and sister-in-law, Greg and Abby. Greg and Abby were on their way home to Misson, TX from a vacation in New Orleans. We went out for supper together and then spent a nice evening visiting at the hotel.

Fishin everywhere

2009-10-06T14:55:00.000-07:00

September 30/09 - Port Lavaca, TX
Port Lavaca City Campground
Mileage: 112 km
Total mileage: 4,158 km

Started the day off by taking a short ferry ride to the main land. From there we cycled west to Aransas Pass. This area is full of shallow bays and tidal ponds. Very marshy. Every shore everywhere has a fisherman on it and boats of every description are on the waters. Fishing is obviously a big past time as every truck has a boat behind it with rods hanging out like a game of pick-up sticks. Day before yesterday, Deby almost got snagged by a passing truck. Hmmm, catch or release...

At Aransas Pass we headed north on Hwy 35. Mostly marshy cattle ranching. I bet there were lots of cattle stuck out there. Heading inland a bit though, the ranches did dry up.

We entered Rockport, a very pretty city, back on the coast. RV country. Lots and lots of RV parks here for what locals call 'Winter Texans'.

Travelling north, about 10 miles south of Trivoli, the farming started. Big, big farms just like the area west of Corpus Christi. The farms continued with the exception of a bayou or two all the way to Port Lavaca.

We are camped tonight at Port Lavaca on a bay of the Gulf of Mexico. Nice travelling day. Overcast skies, tailwind and smooth roads.

Day off

2009-10-06T14:47:00.000-07:00

September 29/09 - Port Aransas, TX

Spent the day enjoying Port Aransas. Updated our blog at the public library and toured around on our bicycles.

Huge wind arose with a tumultuous downpour, while we were in the library. We waited it out and were on our way. When we got back to our campground our tent was flat, sleeping bags soaked and our stuff had blown all over the place. Tough camping country.

We gathered up our stuff, I bent tent poles back into shape and replaced some shock cords. All is well. Saskatchewan type winds here except its warm, there are palm trees and the sound and smell of the ocean.

Tomorrow we ride.

Thank you all for reading our blog. It's nice to know our old friends and new friends are along with us. Thank you for your comments. I can't tell you how much encouragement they add. Sorry we can't get back to you. When we do find a computer we are usually rushed and there is almost always a lineup behind us. Thank you again! No one is more important than friends and family.

Sand in everything

2009-09-29T09:49:00.000-07:00

September 28/09 - Port Aransas, Texas
IB Magee Campground
Mileage: 33 km
Total mileage: 4,079 km

We are camped tonight in a beautiful campground in Port Aransas, nice little town. We are camped behind some large dunes and on grass.

We learned last night that beach camping sucks and it is far less romantic than it may seem. Woke up this morning with sand in the tent, sand in our sleeping bags, sand in our packs and sand in our dishes. Put on our sandy clothes and cycled north, spitting out sand all the while. Stopped for a bite to eat just before Port Aransas and as I ate my prepackaged deep fried apple pie I was still crunching down on sand. Tonight we were smarter due to experience, and I hope and pray that those poor tenters on the beach won't be blown away or become dunes themselves.

It was a short ride today. Port Aransas is to pretty a spot to cycle through without stopping. We toured the town on our bikes and went to the marina to look at the boats.

At the marina we met Joe and his brother Mark. We talked with them for a long, long time. Mostly Joe did the talking, Mark knowing better than to try and get a word in edgewise.

Joe told us that he didn't like cycling because when he was 6 years old Mark ambushed him and shot him off his bicycle with a pellet gun. Joe said he was riding from their mailbox back to the house when Mark and another brother jumped out from behind the water trough and 'Bam', shot him in the gut. Joe had a lot more stories, most of which I can't even remember. Information overload, but amusing and entertaining.

Joe and his wife live on their boat in a slip in the marina. They have lived in the boat for the past 13 years. $165/month. Now, the 40 foot semi-ocean going houseboat was nothing like you would see in a yachting magazine, but they appeared very comfortable and Joe obviously loved his life. It's interesting to see how different people live in so many different ways.

We enjoyed the dolphins putting on a show for us today in the inter coastal waterway. We swam in the Gulf and walked the beach for a long time. Ah, life is good!!

Finally, the Gulf

2009-09-29T09:31:00.000-07:00

September 27/09 - Mustang Island State Park, Texas
Mileage: 107.2 km
Total mileage: 4,046 km

Camped tonight on the beach on the Gulf of Mexico. Warm, humid breeze and we have the entire beach to ourselves. Just had a swim...water is 83 degrees.

Cycling east from Alice, we got our first blast of salt air about 13 miles west of Corpus Christi which is on the coast. If you are ever on Hwy 44 closing in on Corpus take a whiff of the air as you're passing Rosters Welding cause that's where you'll smell it. We peddled on with anticipation. The anticipation built as we peddled through Corpus Christi...that took a long time.

Reaching the Gulf of Mexico was another pivotal moment. When you see the ocean a few things cross your mind. First - achievement - I peddled this bicycle all the way here from Grand Forks British Columbia, wow! Second - this bicycle is a marvelous piece of engineering. Weighing approximately 25 lbs it carried me, and my load without whining, for the past 4,046 kms. Third - God gave us a beautiful planet, but its not a big planet. Maybe, just maybe, we should take a lot better care of it.

Cycling eastbound yesterday, the terrain started to change just after San Diego. Texas quite abruptly flattened right out. Flat like a pool table. Today continued much the same.

Flat land cycling is the hardest. You can give me mountainous, or even hilly cycling anytime. Flat land cycling offers no gliding or free miles, and you use the same muscle groups all day long...ouch. To boot, it usually involves wind and Murphy's law applies to cycling. It's always in your face!

Today was no exception to that law as the winds here blow from the Gulf. We peddled into it, Deby drafting me. I guess I got the short end of the stick having to break the wind. I get back at her though, by breaking wind in the tent as well.

Big huge tracts of farmland here as well. Most of it is summer fallow now, so we couldn't tell what they grow. Did see some corn and cotton though. Big, big farming.

The humidity has been a bit of a blow. The temperatures haven't changed, but it seems hotter. Have to get used to cycling soaked, going to bed wet, and waking up wet. Today, by the end of the day we were already getting more comfortable with it. It will be like this all the way around the Gulf now.

Rabid Beast

2009-09-29T09:13:00.000-07:00

September 26/09 - Alice, Texas
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 132 km
Total mileage: 3,939 km

Left Encinal this morning on quiet Hwy 44 eastbound. It was warm when we started and the temperature continued to climb. I estimate the daily high was about 100 degrees.

We noticed at Encinal that it was more humid now. Probably as a result of its proximity to the Gulf of Mexico. The humidity increased as we rode through Freer, and San Diego and ended our day in Alice.

The terrain was the same, only more grassy now among the trees and cactus. Getting a little tired of the Texas chip coat. The roads are clean of debris and well kept, but the chip coat is rough. Hard on the bikes and the riders.

Attempted to move a tortoise out of the driving lane. I have a soft spot for tortoises. I lifted him approximately 2" off the pavement when he abruptly stuck his head and legs out. This altered my grip a bit and I dropped him. The small monster turned on a dime and came at me mouth open and hissing. Pretty good initial sprint too. Thinking that I had imagined what had happened, I attempted to pick him up again. Same thing, hopping like a rock, he charged. I rode on and from about 50 meters I looked back. The rabid beast had made it to the shoulder. That pleased me, but I think I would have been just as satisfied had I looked back and seen a semi barreling down on him.

Changed a tire on my bike in San Diego. My Michelin World Tour developed a large bulge. I am now running on two Walmart Bell tires and have lots of patches. I have come full circle.

We were intending to overnight in San Diego. San Diego however, as it turns out, doesn't have a campground, hotel or motel. We cycled on to Alice and got a hotel. Four days without a shower, Princess was getting pretty rank! (Princess, had washed her hair and sponge bathed in the restroom at the truck stop cause I couldn't stand myself anymore. Kim on the other hand, was very RIPE! The hotel was very welcome).

The Punisher

2009-09-29T08:40:00.000-07:00

September 25/09 - Encinal, Texas
Loves Truck Stop
Mileage: 156.8 km (98 miles)
Total mileage: 3,807 km

Camped tonight at Loves Truck Stop. Camped on a little tiny patch of grass that the manager permitted us to use. Strange birds chattering away in the hibiscus tress and the noise of 50 + tractor trailer units make for an interesting combination of sounds.

Cycled 156.8 km today. That's 98 miles. When Deby had the choice of camping in the desert or semi-civilization, she really put out (Funny what the fear of snakes and illegals will help you accomplish). Not to many choices in southwest Texas. Rather desolate and unpopulated country.

It was dusk and threatening darkness for the last 20 kms of our day. Deby cycled strong all day, but really punished the road over that last stretch. I think she's been holding back on me. I can honestly say that I could name 100 guys that couldn't have cycled that stretch that fast, especially after cycling 136 km already. After this kick, I renamed her bike. No longer is it V-Dub, now and forever after, it will be known as the 'Punisher.' (Appropriate since it punishes him on my slow days, and also works when fear makes me go faster).

This morning before leaving Eagle Pass we met a fella by the name of Alphonse. Alphonse was from Louisiana, but relocating in Eagle Pass. Alphonse said that he was renovating an old place and pointed in the direction of his new property. We had come into Eagle Pass from that direction so I knew the place he was working on probably didn't amount to much.

Anyway, we conversed for quite some time. Alphonse seemed to be a cross between Malcolm X and Preston Manning...strange eh! Alphonse gave us a long lesson on injustice and the problems with the United States. He also told us of the cycle of welfare etc. etc.

Alphonse was very interested in our trip and actually very worldly in his knowledge. He wished us the best and as we were preparing to leave he reached into his wallet and said, "Let me give you something for the road." I chose to leave this to Deby and I walked a short distance away to throw some trash in the garbage, smiling all the while. I looked back and Alphonse was forcing a 20 dollar bill on Deby. Deby was politely trying to decline the offer, but Alphonse kept getting louder, and louder in a Louisiana kind of way. Finally, Deby accepted the bill not wanting to insult him. Alphonse then bid us farewell and drove away in his rusty old 80's something Cutlass.

Alphonse is proof that less can be more. I think that we have to be careful not to loose the kind of attitude that he has. Alphonse is in touch with the finer things in life, that being relationships and generosity. He has it all together.

Down the road 70 kms, in Carrizo Springs, we gave Alphonse's $20 to a fella that was collecting money for his church that runs drug rehab homes around the world. The $20 that Alphonse so unselfishly gave us will go on working. Thank-you Alphonse.

Good cycling today. Highs were in the 90's which we are quite used to at this point. Gentle grades made it easy, although this Texas chip coat is rough and slows the bike somewhat.

Leaving Eagle Pass we cycled through desert of course, but it did vary as the moisture varied in the different areas. This is the land of showers and not all areas of the desert by any means get the same amount of precipitation.

From Carrizo Springs and eastward through Asherton, Catarina, and finally Encinal the desert became increasingly greener. The trees got bigger and instead of dirt, or struggling grass between them, we began to see lush high grass. So much so, that I began to wonder why they don't cut the ditches for hay. Then it dawned on me that they don't need hay in this country because they pasture their cattle all year. At the truck stop I asked one of the employees if this area was still considered desert. He stated it wasn't desert any longer.

Deby is getting hardier. Neither of us have had a shower in 3 days now. This is not some sort of strange strike or anything, southwest Texas is just hard country for a cyclist. We have taken to using a lilac scented sunscreen. Our aroma is rather special, sort of bitter/sweet, like a lilac bush growing beside a dumpster.

We saw half a dozen javelinas in the ditch today. A sort of wild pig. I thought they were supposed to be small, but these were a good size.

That's all folks. Have to go check the tent. The maintenance man here figures we put it on top of a fire ant hill.

The Oasis

2009-09-29T08:17:00.000-07:00

September 24/09 - Eagle Pass, Texas
Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,651 km

We are camped this evening at the rear of the Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant. It looked like a nice place so we asked the owner, Hugo if we could stay. Hugo said yes, and wouldn't take any money which I had offered him. Hugo, went even further and offered us the use of an older mobile home out back, but we politely declined.

Deby and I have been sleeping in our tent for so long now that we are used to the cool breezes and the lullaby of the crickets. We knew the mobile home would make for a restless sleep as have the odd nights that we have spent in hotels.

Just before dark, three Border Patrol Officers swooped by our tent and dived into the shallow valley that we overlook. Two of them were on quads and the third followed in a 4X4. As Bart Simpson would say, "Cooool!" I watched them for a while. The two on quads would periodically get off and look for tracks and then continue on. I don't think they had any call to this location. They just seemed to be making a rapid and hasty patrol in the hopes of surprising illegals or mules.

Leaving Del Rio this morning we talked with 76 year old Roger. Roger was very impressed with our trip and wanted every detail. I was very impressed with Roger. Roger runs 5 km distance 3-4 times a week and competes in 5 km races finishing at the top of his class. Way to go Roger.

Roger is also a pilot and flies a wealthy rancher to and from Mexico regularly. I asked him if Customs and Border Patrol were all over him for those flights to which he replied, "Yup!"

South from Del Rio on Hwy 277 we started to encounter desert trees which we had not seen for a while. Also, since Amistad Lake we were now seeing a beautiful flowering pink bush throughout the desert. The bush was very plentiful and from different vistas you could see it all across the desert.

We dropped into a valley which included the town of Quemado. The valley, which is more like a basin, is an oasis. Beautiful crops and grass pastures. Huge trees, and trees and brush that are overgrown in the lushness.

One has to wonder how a place like this exists here. There is irrigation, but more than that I think you could put a spade in the ground and hit the water table.

The Town of Quemado is quaint. Very Spanish in residents and architecture. It could be 'any town in Mexico'.

Leaving Quemado the country became a little dryer, but not like the country further to the west. Toward Eagle Pass was still much greener.

We rode through about 2 miles of road construction just before Quemado. There was no road left, just mud. Deby's new mudders ate it up. My tires left a little to be desired. The mud was slow going. The mud in Texas is sticky, like riding on a giant fly strip. By the time we were through the construction we looked as though we were riding adobe bikes.

Pulling into Eagle Pass, 3,651 km without incident, my Polish Princess hit a garbage can. (I didn't drive into it, I just miscalculated how far my bags stuck out on the side and caught the garbage can with the bag. The garbage can won, and down the bike and I went). The bike was fine, and oh ya, so was Deby.

We had a good cycling day. Overcast sky's and mild temperatures. Some real pavement for a change, not just chip coat. Real pavement is much faster and more comfortable to ride. In fact it was such an easy day that we both figured a person could get fat doing this.

Bike Repairs

2009-09-29T08:08:00.000-07:00

September 23/09 - Lonesome Dove Campground
Del Rio, Texas

Spent the day in Del Rio. Replaced both tires on Deby's Surly. Both her Specialized Nimbus Armadillos had severely deliminated.

Lakeside Sports, the Specialized dealer and the only bicycle shop in town didn't have any of those tires to give us, so they replaced them with Specialized Crossroads Armadillos. The Crossroads is more of a mountain bike tire, but has a centre bead for road travel. Not premium, but workable.

I guess I have to eat my shorts. I stated earlier that the Specialized Nimbus was the best thing on wheels...wrong. True, they are almost impenetrable, but the rubber falls off the tires. This is a bad thing. Never the less, Specialized has been very good to us and replaced all the tires on warranty.

I am starting to concede to what super cycle tourer Dan in Montpellier told me. He said, "Buy cheap tires and lots of patches, because there isn't a tire or gimmick out there that will work better." I'm starting to feel more comfortable with his philosophy.

Del Rio is a pretty city. We had a nice time touring around.

Border Patrol

2009-09-23T12:33:00.000-07:00

September 22/09 - Del Rio, Texas
Lonesome Dove Campground
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,551 km

The same storm that we got last night provided us with an awesome tailwind today. Temperature also dropped to 68 degrees. Perfect cycling. Almost a little chilly.

Rolled through the desert and crossed some very picturesque canyons. Crossed the Pecos River just above where it meets the Rio Grande. The Pecos River canyon is something to behold. Huge rock walls on both sides, 100 feet plus. The river itself is enormous.

Talked with a Border Patrol officer, Rubin. Rubin told me that the work here has changed somewhat over the years. Rubin said that it used to be mostly aliens, but now it was mostly drugs. He stated that a few of the "good old boys" still come over to try and find work, but most of the illegals now come over carrying drugs.

I got the impression that he and probably the other Border Patrol officers have some empathy for the aliens coming over to work. They come over, Border Patrol catches them, all part of the game, ho hard feelings. The drug smugglers, or mules as they are called, are the big problem.

Rubin said that in this area it was difficult to come across because the banks of the Rio Grande are much like the banks of the Pecos. He said that there was only a few canyons, washes, etc. joining the Rio Grande where it was possible. He stated that these areas are monitored with seismic sensors tuned to detect footsteps. When there is a hit they swoop into the area. Still, aliens/mules do manage to penetrate these barriers sometimes.

All along Hwy 90 where we travelled, there was a dirt road adjacent t the ditch. This dirt road runs for miles and miles and miles. I noticed the Border Patrol grooming the road by dragging tractor tires along it with their trucks. Rubin told me that they groom this road and check it three times a day for foot prints. If there is a foot print on it, the hunt starts. Rubin said that the illegals will try to make it north to I-10, which gives the Border Patrol officers up to five days to track them through the desert. He said that he used to be in K-9. It made my mouth water to think of tracking through the pristine, uncontaminated desert.

They have no shortage of work and there doesn't appear to be any shortage of them. Border Patrol is everywhere. We pass them constantly while they sit on approaches and watch traffic and they pass us constantly at high speeds heading to the next call.

Today we went through a road block. Border Patrol was stopping each and every vehicle and the K-9 officer was checking the vehicles which his dog.

Ruben told me that they have horse patrols, that officers are out in the desert on quads and that they have an air unit with flur night vision. Very multifaceted.

Anyway, we ended our day peddling along Amistad Lake and to the Lonesome Dove Campground just on the outskirts of Del Rio. The nice lady camp host gave us way to many cookies.

My Polish Princess was a hot shot today with the tailwind and her little tiny high gear. The vulchers never looked at her twice.

Beggers can't be choosers

2009-09-23T10:54:00.000-07:00

September 21/09 - Langtry, Texas
Mileage: 97.6 km
Total mileage: 3,451 km

Picked up our lunch and supper provisions before leaving Sanderson. We were warned that Dryden and Langtry had next to nothing for services. Packed lots of fluids along for this stretch.

Southern New Mexico and this part of Texas do involve some logistical planning. Towns are a long way from one another and some may not have the services you need to survive, food and water, and some may not even exist.

Travelling south east on Hwy 90 we made a quick start through beautiful Sanderson Canyon. Rolling grades, easy ups and long descents. A bit of a headwind, but Deby drafted me and we flew along. We made Dryden (40 km) in record time.

At Dryden we stopped at the store for a break. The little store is Dryden. A cold reception from the lady at the cash register who told us there were no public restrooms. She didn't even look up or apologise when she said it. How can you be the only service in the middle of the desert and not have a restroom? Twenty six years ago I cycled trough here and they didn't have a restroom! We left our deposits out back and when we left we felt much better about the place.

The day heated up as we rode and Deby began to have some difficulty with the climbs. I noticed that the vulchers that are regularly present began to leave their carrion and circle Deby. I think they thought that something moving that slowly would have to fall over any time now. Yummy...Alberta beef fed and Great Western fermented, what a morsel. She continued on though and the vulchers dropped off in pursuit of other road kills.

Stumbled into a rest stop and fixed a flat tire in the shade. That was a nice fix. Cycling in the heat is not a problem. You create your own cooling breeze. Fixing a tire in the sun in the ditch is real killer. We continued on.

During the afternoon the wind changed in our favor and we rolled into Langry. The store was closed, no campground.

Three locals, one having had too much to drink, made fun of us when I told them we were cycling to Florida. I let them talk for a while before telling them that we had come from British Columbia. Then, we were hero's and they became more diplomatic. The inebriated one, Rusty, invited us to take up a patch of grass in his yard for our tent, mumbling something about being put on earth to be good to people. We took him up on it, but not before I changed a flat on Deby's bike which she had pushed the last 1/2 km to the store.

Now, Rusty had been relegated to living in the back of an old office in a rock yard. Landscaping rocks are stored in the yard having been taken from a nearby quarry. It was not the splendor that you may be thinking a yard in a small town might be, but beggars can't be choosers.

Anyway, we set our tent up on oil soaked gravel where cars had parked for years and then went and enjoyed the company on the couch outside Rusty's back door. It all seemed reminiscent of a certain house on lets say, the 100 block of Avenue J South (Police humor). Oh, how life has changed.

Rusty's cousin, a ranch hand and a pseudo hippie who sold out in Virgina to live off the land in this desolate country was also our company. Princess and I just looked at each other and smirked as the philosophical conversations deepened. Rusty, bless his heart provided the beer.

An ugly storm was brewing in the west so Deby and I retired to cook supper and hit the hay. And the storm did come. All night we were awake watching the peak of the tent flattened out over us in the wind. I rolled to one side and Deby to the other side to try and hold it down. All the while listening to Rusty's tin roof creaking and moaning like it was going to blow off.

By morning the storm had subsided and the good old Eureka Timberline was still in one piece. Rusty was up in his rock yard giving orders and running around like he was a Mormon who never touched a drop. I guess he is very used to his liquor.

Rusty has a giant heart and the experience was fun. I hope we see him again some day, but doubt he'll remember that night.

Two old guys

2009-09-23T10:35:00.000-07:00

September 20/09 - Sanderson, Texas
Canyon RV Park
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 3,353 km

Leaving Fort Stockton this morning we stopped at a service station for a coffee. We talked with two old fellas for a while. Ronny is why Texans are known to tell 'tall tales'. Ronny was full of it, but in a good way. Ronny's stories were so outlandish that even he didn't expect you to believe them. He and A.E. Ivy bantered back and forth attempting to insult each other, neither one losing the battle.

When we parted, A.E. Ivy, the kind you don't want as he put it, gave Deby a handmade rosewood perfume bottle with a glass insert and gave me a birch pen and pencil set that he had made. Ronny told us not to go through Langtry. Ronny said the last guy that went that way got hung. We already knew it was Judge Roy Bean country so the joke was on him. We were off.

We travelled south on 285 and the first 50 km appeared the same as most of the country since we had entered Texas two days ago. As Ronny had said, "you can travel further in this part of Texas and see less than you can anywhere else in the United Sates."

Then the country changed. We came into some pretty serious rolling hills which lead us into 'Big Canyon'. Beautiful, a large valley with sedimentary rock walls covered in cactus, mostly prickly pear. Leaves on the prickly pear as big as canoe paddles. From 'Big Canyon' it was all downhill into Sanderson.

Sanderson is a pretty place in the bottom of Sanderson Canyon. Several other canyons come into it from different directions. As we travelled through Sanderson we happened on a plaque. The plaque was dedicated to all those who lost their lives in the flood of 1965. I couldn't imagine how a flood could have happened here since a river doesn't even run through the place. Later we learned that in 1965, 21" of rain fell in 2 hours and all the canyons funneled the water into town. Many perished, some of the bodies never recovered. A horrible disaster.

We were greeted warmly in Sanderson. We're going back there someday. Talked for a long time at the service station with Jr. Gamboa. Nice little Hispanic guy. Jr told us to look him up in Del Rio, and we will do that.

Looking for the campground, we asked an old fella where we could find it. He gave us directions and when we arrived, he was there in his truck to make sure we found the place.

Oh, I forgot. I wish we could have enjoyed 'Big Canyon' more, but we were caught in a torrential downpour. Fixing a flat tire in that torrential downpour didn't make it any better. We arrived in Sanderson drenched. (The good part was that the wind had changed direction and between the wind and the rain pounding my back, V-Dub flew into town).

The campground was really nice. The host was fantastic. He charged us $5 for the stay. At a lot of these campgrounds they appreciate the effort of a cyclist and just do you a favor.

Flat country

2009-09-23T10:20:00.001-07:00

September 19/09 - Fort Stockton, Texas
Mileage: 86.4 km
Total mileage: 3,249 km

We are camped tonight at I-10 RV Park. The host, a real nice older lady, was so impressed with our journey that she reached inside her coupon bag and gave us a 2 for 1 breakfast coupon for IHOP. Later, she gave us 1/2 a watermelon and brought chairs to our campsite. Haven't met anyone yet that hasn't shown us a world of kindness.

Left Pecos this morning into another headwind. Light, but all the same, requiring more effort. Deby took to drafting me and we increased our speed into it as a result.

The country is similar type of desert, but the brush is lower and there are not as many desert trees or cactus.

In the middle of our day, we came upon a few sections of extensive irrigation. Here we noted beautiful alfalfa, cotton crops and a large feed lot. Probably the only farming in the middle of this desert for miles and miles. Just add water and the desert grows beautifully.

Lots and lots of oil activity here. We started seeing it the day before yesterday when we were southbound through Artesia. Oil storage tanks and pump jacks all over the place. I thought this area would be pumped out as these must be such old oilfields, but not so. The pump jacks continue to whine and bang on.

We amused ourselves today as we travelled by watching for tarantula's and centipedes on the shoulder of the road. (Had noticed dead tarantulas on the shoulder for a couple of days, but today was the first live one I've ever seen outside of a zoo). Often enough little lizards would pop out of the grass and run along side our bicycles. Man, oh man are they fast.

Epic day

2009-09-23T10:05:00.000-07:00

September 18/09 - Pecos, Texas
Mileage: 137.6 km
Total mileage: 3,162 km

Camped tonight in a backyard in Pecos, Texas. Rode into town in the dark and had a flat tire on Deby's bike at the city limits. Deby rode on the flat to the first service station because I was not going to fix it in a black ditch.

We fixed the tire at the station while people came and went in their cars, loud mariachi music blaring. I knew I would find some sort of hard object having pierced the tire because thorns and chip coating will not go through these Armadillo's. Sure enough it was a wire from a blown retread.

We met a very nice lady by the name of Lynell Putman in Orla. Lynell owns and runs the restaurant/bar, which is Orla, as there is nothing else there. Orla was 75 km into our day and we still had 63 km to go to Pecos. We had 2 pops each and a nice visit with Lynell and she said we could stay in her yard in Pecos. The house is vacant and she is renovating it at this time. It sure was nice to have a place to go to, especially as we arrived in Pecos late and in the dark. It looked like a nice area at night when we set up the tent, and when we awoke in the morning, it appeared like beautiful Riversdale.

Leaving Carlsbad this morning we again rode through beautiful pecan orchards towards Loving and Malaga, New Mexico. After Malaga the country changed to the desert we have become accustomed to and continued on that way through Orla and to Pecos. Gentle rolling grades and a bit of a headwind provided for a bit of a struggle. The Guadalupe Mountains were visible to our west, but as we travelled they disappeared off into the southwest.

Just before reaching Orla we stopped for a peanut butter and hone sandwich. When we were ready to carry on I realized my front tire was flat. I had a suspicion days ago, when I got my last flat, that the Flat Attack had decomposed the contact cement on a patch on the tube. It was confirmed on this date. The Flat Attack had removed most of the a patch on the tube. In hind sight, this makes sense because rubber cement is water soluble and both Slime and Flat Attack are water based products. Don't ever put Slime or Flat Attack in a patched tube. I've learned that these products may work on ATV or wheelbarrow tires, but they don't work in a high pressure bicycle tire. Thank goodness the experiment is over!

Bats, bats and more bats

2009-09-23T09:49:00.000-07:00

September 17/09 - Carlsbad, New Mexico

Took the day off today. Rented a car and took a side trip to Carlsbad Caverns. The caverns are located in the Guadalupe Mountains in Carlsbad National Park.

Incredible country, such a short distance away and so different a place. The Guadalupe Mountains are a desert range. Flora ranges from grasses to several varieties of cactus to low lying brush. Took several short walks, surprisingly green and lush for such a hot dry climate. The hardy plants and trees are the epitome of adaption.

Took a self tour into the Cavern. About a 1 1/2 hour walk, 75 stories downward - magnificent. Then took a guided tour through the King's palace, the Queen's chamber, and the Papoose room. All well worth it and a must see.

At 6:50 pm we sat in the amphitheatre at the entrance to the cavern to watch the bat flight. We watched between 300 and 500 thousand bats leave the cavern for their nightly feed - awe inspiring. Apparently they will be back for their daily snooze at about 5:00 am. We watched the bat flight for about 40 minutes until it became to dark to see the bats. They were still exiting when we left.

I came up with a name for my old Nishiki - Calypso. 'Aye, Calypso, the places you've been to, the things that you've shown us the stories you tell'. God bless John Denver and Jacques Cousteau. Deby came up with a name for her bike - V-Dub. (Kim was the one that came up with this when an old 80's VW van was pulling in to camp next to us in Sante Fe. He had to take a run at the small incline to the camp spot and Kim said "that van is like you. Does good downhill and with the wind, but struggles uphill and in a headwind." No denying that, so V-Dub my bike became.)

Tomorrow we ride.

Pecans and Tequila

2009-09-23T09:25:00.000-07:00

September 16/09 - Carlsbad, New Mexico
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 116.8 km
Total mileage: 3,025 km

Carlsbad is a very pretty city. The people have been very friendly as well.

Upon arriving in town two guys, very much products of the 60's, insisted on helping us find a place to camp. The one began by giving us directions and then the other butted in saying that he didn't know his directions. The 1st guy quieted down and seemed to accept this because he knew the 2nd guy was right. The 2nd guy gave us directions to a city park. I asked him if there was water there. The 1st guy blurted out something about water flowing from a pipe. The 2nd guy stated, "Ya, but that's not drinkable," to which the 1st guy replied, "I've been drinking it for years and look at me!" The 2nd guy and I looked at each other and smiled without saying anything.

The 1st guy had obviously been travelling as he had a couple of packs. I asked him if he had been travelling to which he didn't respond. The 2nd guy stated that he hitch hikes up to Artisia or Roswell, but somewhere along the line ends up on the wrong side of the road and eventually turns up back in Carlsbad. They went off on their way. Several other people talked with us, none having a previous history of drug abuse, and much more helpful.

Just south of Roswell beautiful corn crops lined both sides of the road and then huge orchards of pecan trees. The pecan orchards are something else. Acres and acres of huge trees, regular forests, quite impressive.

Further south, without irrigation the country turned into burnt grass pasture. We probably should have taken Hwy 2 which we parallelled. Hwy 2 to the east of us is closer to the Pecos River where the irrigation is. I could see more pecan orchards in that direction as well as dairy farm silos. That being said, hwy 285 south was a quiet road with good pavement.

Southbound from Artesia the pecan orchards started up again. In this area we also saw cotton crops. Continuing southbound we left the irrigated areas and returned to the desert which we have become fairly accustomed to.

Going through Artesia and before we knew what the orchards were, Deby asked some guys what the trees were. They asked her where she was from, it being unusual that someone didn't know about the trees. Deby told them British Columbia and on our way to Florida. One of the guys looked at her bike and said, "Holy shit, and you're not young either!" (I was thinking "You're telling me!" We all laughed). He told her the trees were pecans and said to drink plenty of tequila before leaving New Mexico.

Nearing Carlsbad the terrain became hilly again. This surprised me. I thought it would be flat from here on in.

An individual stopped us on the road. He was driving his vehicle and offered us water, pop, fruit cups, energy bars, etc. etc. Actually, he did more than offer, he sort of demanded we take something. I took a couple of fruit cups to appease him. So many travellers are amazingly thoughtful.

Changed a rear tire in Roswell. The tire which had gone flat in Vaughn had developed a large bulge and needed to be replaced. Replaced it with my spare, a Michelin World Tour, the biggest 27" X 1 1/4" tire I have ever seen. We'll see how it last.

Today is our 24th anniversary, so opted for the Holiday Inn instead of the City Park with undrinkable water.

A long stretch

2009-09-16T20:28:00.000-07:00

September 15th/09 - Roswell, New Mexico
Mileage: 149 km
Total mileage: 2,909 km

Camped in a beautiful RV park on 2nd street just east of Atkinson Road in Roswell, New Mexico. Came into Roswell on Hwy 285. We don't recall having been abducted. Our butts are sore, but we are almost positive that's from the bicycle seats.

Long, lonely ride today. The scenery was intriguing, but there was absolutely nothing in between Vaughn and Roswell. There are two towns on the map, Ramon and Mesa, but they don't exist. A local in Vaughn had told us that there was nothing so we packed provisions and extra water and did just fine. In fact, better than fine, we flew. All downhill with the wind behind us. Starting now to make a run for sea level at the Gulf of Mexico.

Green pastures leaving Vaughn, almost as far as the eye could see. Far off to the west a range of mountains does border them. I think the Captain Mountains.

A cactus grows in these pastures which I'm sure is continuously eradicated by the ranchers, only to grow back again. The cactus grows multi-stemmed and has branches shooting out everywhere like sausages with prickles. It grows 3-4 feet high on average and blooms yellow.

Closer to Roswell the pastures get dryer and the grass yellows. The cactus thin out and a low growing bush takes over. There is irrigation in this area now and the mainstay seems to be growing grass and alfalfa for hay. The hay must be worth gold. For all the ranching to the north I never did see any hay land.

Had a flat tire yesterday pulling into Vaughn. The Flat Attack stopped the leak with about 30 lbs pressure left. I blew the tire up and again, psst-psst, 30 lbs pressure. I took the tube with the Flat Attack out and threw it away. Confirmed...neither Slime or Flat Attack will work in a high pressure tire on a loaded bike.

As I was riding today, a lady pulled up beside me and asked if we needed any water, juice, fruit etc. She was farely insistent and I had to assure her that we had lots of fluids along with us. Reluctantly she went on her way. Locals know what a desolate stretch this is.

Then it occurred to me. Twenty six years ago when I rode this stretch, countless vehicles pulled up beside me and the occupants would pass me a beer as I rode. Finally I had to decline their offers as it was starting to get difficult to ride. I love Americans!

Deby did extremely well today. Almost 100 miles on a loaded bike with few stops. She rode fast too. The Polish, they never give up.

Ride on

2009-09-16T19:52:00.000-07:00

September 14/09 - Town Park, Vaughn, New Mexico
Mileage: 144 km
Total mileage: 2,904 km

Fantastic day of riding. Long gentle inclines, easy to peddle and equally long gentle descents. The whole day rolled away in that manner. The wind was to our backs, we skirted the rain showers, couldn't ask for better cycling conditions.

The day started with the hills being forested and slowly the bush disappeared. By Clines Corner at the intersection with I-40 the country had turned almost totally to rolling pasture land. Big, big ranches out here. Surprisingly the grass is tall green. I had thought it would be burnt yellow by this time of year, but no.

At Clines Corner we had a Mexican buffet. A good feed and luckily so because unknowingly we still had a long way to go.

South from Clines Corner we peddled intending to reach Encino and camp. It was a full day by the time we got there. Surprise there is nothing in Encino. Encino had obviously seen some hard times. Two closed gas stations and a main street consisting of old businesses with smashed windows, and no doors. We cycled another 26 kms to Vaughn. In Vaughn we made ourselves comfortable in the town park.

Where does the name Vaughn come from anyhow? In an area with such romantic, beautiful Latin names for towns, who thought of Vaughn? I think Vaughn must have been some crazy Anglo settler who just had to have things his own way. The other settlers must have got so sick of him that they finally said, "OK Vaughn, call the place whatever you like."

We met a fellow today as we were leaving the Santa Fe area. Our new friend Ross LewAllen had investigated our bikes outside a grocery store and shortly afterward associated them to the couple wearing black disco shorts and tap dancing shoes.

We talked with Ross for a long time. Ross, it turns out, was a pro cycle racer in the 60's and now practices Shamanic Healing in the Santa Fe area. We had lots in common and Ross was very interested in our tour.

In parting Ross gave us a Zuni Indian fetish. The fetish is a small beaver, approximately 1 1/2" carved in stone with several smaller stones on its back. Ross stated the smaller stones were rewards of the beaver. I asked him if it was a charm, and he said, "No, it is medicine." I asked him what the rewards of the beaver were and Ross smirked saying we would find out. He did say however that one of the rewards was that the beaver could build a home anywhere and be comfortable which was what we were doing. I will have to do my internet research, but I'll bet that the beaver being the hardest working animal on the planet also comes with the reward of tenacity and perseverance. Thank-you Ross. The spirit and intent that it was given with will carry us thousands of miles.

Interestingly enough, the beaver happens to be Canada's national animal and a very fitting gift for two Canadians. Also of interest, but unfortunate for the beaver, is that this little critter was responsible for the mapping of Canada and most of the United States during the early fur trade. The maps Deby and I now use to find our way through both countries. Thank God the beaver is prolific. And thank God for Archie Belainie.

*Note to self: Don't have 3 heaping plates at a Mexican buffet and then ride 74 kms. A bit of a dysentery issue arriving at the town park in Vaughn.

Santa Fe - 400 years old

2009-09-16T19:40:00.000-07:00

September 13/09 - Ranchero RV Park, Santa Fe, New Mexico
Mileage: approximately 55 km
Total mileage: 2,760 km

Enjoying a campfire in the bush on a hillside just out of Santa Fe. The fire light off the junipers and the pines makes a person think he should check to see if the horses are still hobbled before turning in.

Beautiful forested country here. The mountains and hills are starting to get smaller. Not far from the flat lands now, just to the south of us.

Most of the homes in and around Santa Fe are adobe, earth red in color. They blend into the hillsides almost unnoticed. There is harmony with the land in the architecture, the way it should be.

A hectic ride into Santa Fe from Espanola. Multi-lane hwy and lots of traffic. It was all better however when we got in to Old Santa Fe and cycled the Old Santa Fe Trail, the Pecos Trail and the Old Las Vegas Trail. Very peaceful and a step back in time.

Watched the parade in the Old Town. Santa Fe is celebrating 400 years. Santa Fe was founded in 1610 AD. Somehow the math seems wrong to me, but maybe the locals are so excited they are celebrating a year early.

The parade was cool. Very different than any parade we northern Anglos are used to seeing. These are very happy people and I can imagine they love to party.

I talked with a couple of policemen in the Old Town. Cops everywhere. They seemed like they were in the same kind of mood that SPS members are in on July 1st at Diefenbaker Park.

Got to check the horses. Goodnight.

The louge

2009-09-13T08:40:00.000-07:00

September 12th/09 - Espanola, New Mexico
Comfort Inn
Mileage: 134.4 km
Total mileage: 2705 km

Staying at a hotel tonight. I feel like a wimp. That's three hotels in a month. I guess I'm just treating the Princess right.

Deby did extremely well today. Kept right up when she was in the rear, and there was no catching up for me when she was out front. I think it has something to do with hormones. (I can't believe I actually typed that for him. I think it has to do with a civilized number of kilometers the day before, so my legs were not protesting all day!)

It was all downhill today from Chama to Espanola with only a few smaller uphill grades. Broad valley with beautiful pastures interspersed with forest all the way to Cebola. The valley then narrows with more or less continuous forest to Abiquiu. Some remarkable red rock mountains and rock walls along this stretch. From Abiquiu to Espanola the valley broadened out again and the Sangre De Cristo mountains began to show themselves off to the southeast.

Deby has put herself in charge of calculating the mileage now that my rainproof Sigma computer has given up the ghost. Deby watches the signs, and counts the mileage markers as we travel. This is probably not new to her. (Nope, I knew in the first 10 miles the day the Sigma quit that it was in miles, but let him figure it out at the end of the day by doing an extra couple of miles using the mileage markers to convince himself). I think she has been counting mileage markers since we left Grand Forks. In any case, I think she is more accurate than the computer was.

Rivers have now become Rios, and dry gulches or washes have now become Arroyos. Every name of every town, city and mountain range has become Spanish. Interesting country of diversity. Even most of the people are now obviously of Spanish decent. Man, oh man, they talk fast.

Light day

2009-09-12T22:48:00.001-07:00

September 11th/09
Mileage: 84.3 km
Total mileage: 2570 km

A beautiful day of riding south on Hwy 84. Prior to reaching Chromo there is some good climbing, but the ride is almost park like. The road is narrow and winds up through a tight forested valley of white spruce, blue spruce, ponderosa pine and burr oak. Traffic is very light, probably because people just can't go fast enough through here so they choose an alternate route.

Beyond Chromo the valley widens and the valley floor turns into beautiful ranch land. This is high country. Most of the towns we have gone through in the past week average about 7,000 ft in elevation. Chama is 7,800 feet. Lots of people in the mile high club around here.

As a point of interest, just east of Chromo, we crossed the Continental Divide from west to east. Now we'll be going the same direction as all the water on the continent on our way to Florida.

My waterproof Sigma computer/mileage recorder got wet in the rain yesterday. That seems to have been the end of it. Today, although it indicated kms it was actually recording in miles. Understandably at the end of the day we figured out why it seemed to be taking so long to get to where we were going. Now it doesn't work at all. Funny, they put a man on the moon with less computerization than an early Texas Instrument calculator, but they can't make a dependable bicycle speedometer.

Met a young guy when we were leaving Pagosa this morning. Very genuine, simple, humble 20 something year old. Perhaps a young guy who had fallen on some hard times with this recession. He was fishing in the river and we had seen him in this same place yesterday when we arrived in Pagosa. Anyway, we talked and he commented on how disgusting the garbage in the area and along side the highway was. I related to him how I felt the same way.

I told him of our blog and he wanted me to put it out there so that maybe someone would pick up on the problem. I told him I would, so here goes:

For all the good American people we have met along the way, take up the cause and get others to do the same. You have an extremely beautiful country, but amazingly enough it is full of discarded trash. I saw a lady wearing a red, white and blue t-shirt the other day. The t-shirt said , "These colors don't run." Well, I think the colors run together every time I look from my bicycle into the ditch. It hurts! The problem is everywhere, but the worst of the worst that we saw was between Price, Utah and Green River, Utah. I know of one little fisherman in Pagosa Springs who is trying to clean up the country, but he can't do it alone.

Signed - A friend and admirer of the United States.

Cool running

2009-09-12T22:39:00.000-07:00

September 10th/09 - Pagosa Springs Riverside Campground
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 2486 km

Camped tonight in a very nice campground. Even have Chong from 'Up in Smoke' camped beside us. Oh, what a miserable life he has had and I've heard every detail. The guy means well though.

We started out today in busy traffic eastbound on Hwy 160. A bit overcast, but the cooler temperature was welcome. Mostly mountainous bush country, moderate grades, easy riding.

East of Bayfield we travelled through the San Juan National Forest. Beautiful big pines which I admired very much. I found out from one of the locals in Pagosa Springs that these are Ponderosa Pines.

Continuing east we were blessed with a long descent. I reached 67 km/hr with my old bike. I couldn't help feeling like Hans Solo in his junk yard space ship at warp speed waiting for it to disintegrate.

We sailed into what was supposed to be the town of Chimney Rock looking forward to a break and some lunch. Chimney Rock however, consisted of only an old closed down restaurant and a market garden. Since neither of us wanted a cob of corn for lunch we continued on.

Ominous clouds to the north of us haunted us all day. They finally broke open as we reached the Turkey Spring Trading Post. We drank coffee and ate burritos through the worst of it and then left for Pagosa under only light showers.

Nearing Pagosa Springs the higher peaks of the San Juan mountain range came into view. Everyday has a new breathtaking vista. We will head south tomorrow into New Mexico on the western slopes of the San Juan's.

Deby the unstopable

2009-09-12T21:21:00.000-07:00

September 9th/09 - Durango, Colorado
Mileage: 144.26 km
Total mileage: 2387 km
Ride time: 7:21 hrs

Staying at the Super 8 Hotel tonight. We got into Durango at dusk and started asking about campgrounds, but no one could help us. Funny, you live in a city all your life, but don't know where the campgrounds are.

Bicycle touring is always a challenge. So much of what you need to know depends on local information, or lack thereof. We cycled around Durango for a while (beautiful place) and then as it darkened, got off the road before our untimely demise. Gets dark faster and faster the further south you get.

Leaving Dove Creek this morning you could tell the farming improved eastward. Probably more rain and for sure a better irrigation network. The hills rolled by and the shoulders widened. Nice riding. The sleeping Ute mountains loomed up to the south as we neared Cortez and the La Plata mountains could be seen growing in front of us as we continued eastward.

We had lunch in a park at Cortez. Peanut butter and honey sandwiches, you can never get enough. As we ate I could see the clouds gathering. It looked as though our pleasant day was going to involve some hardship before the day was done. I hoped that we could make it through the La Plata mountains before the storm came.

We left Cortez and just before getting to Mancos the winds began. We struggled into Mancos and the pass in front of us was totally obscured by rain. We procrastinated a bit at Mancos and then made the decision to continue. After all, how bad could it be.

The climb began, the rains swirled and the winds roared. Pushing forward at a slow rate I thought my speedo was going to start going backwards any second. There was little relief from the elements and we pushed forward like a couple of canoeists going upstream.

Finally, soaked to the bone and suffering from the initial stages of hypothermia I made a crucial decision. One of us was going to survive. Knowing that a service station was only 14 kms away I bolted. Up the pass, through the intensifying gail, against all odds I made it. Teeth uncontrollably chattering I pulled into the Oasis of warmth and coffee. Ten minutes later Deby stumbled in the door, soggy and expressionless stating nothing except "I need food".

We had coffee and sugared up and began to come back to reality. The next assault from the elements was to come shortly.

As Deby was getting ready, I spoke with a guy inside the station. He told me that if we were heading to Durango to dress warm for the rest of the ride. He said that from the station to Durango was 11 miles straight down. I was jubilant. I went outside and told Deby what the guy had said. Deby looked at me with that same expressionless face and simply said, "he's lying!" She started out and I never saw here again for 11 miles.

The descent was fantastic. I could feel the air warm foot by foot as I dropped to the valley floor. When I met up with Deby in Durango we were both warm, dry and comfortable (so glad I was wrong and the guy wasn't lying!!!).

Things always get better and so ended another perfect day.

Back on the road again

2009-09-12T21:05:00.000-07:00

September 8th/09 - Dove Creek, Colorado
Mileage: 134.9 km
Total mileage: 2242 km
Ride time: 7:27 hrs

Tonight we are camped in what you would think is a yard for old machinery, but the sign out front says Blue Mountain RV Park. When you're cycling though, anyplace to stay is a wonderful place even if you have to go down the street in the dark to take a dump at the local Shell station. We weren't charged for the place. I don't think the owner would have felt right asking us for money.

Leaving Moab this morning we had Deby's Specialized Armadillo replaced at Rim Cycle. It turns out there was a bad batch of these tires and her rear tire was one of them. The tire was delaminating and they were only to happy to replace it on warranty. I am very happy with the tires. Deby has only had two flat since we got them, both being nail punctures, both which can be forgiven. Road chip coating and thorns have been overcome by these tires.

Travelling south toward Monticello is a very pretty ride. In reality you can't grasp this crazy country unless you investigate the surrounding parks, but travelling south you do get a taste as the valley you follow is a microcosm of the area. Red rock walls, canyons, boulders as big as a house balanced on boulders as big as a shed etc. etc.

For some time as you travel, the La Sal mountains watch over you from the east. As you get closer to Monticello the Abajo mountains pop up to the west. These are huge mountains, but relatively small ranges. Hard to believe they can pop up out of nowhere when the rest of the surrounding country is so different.

Big climb right before Monticello. You leave the desert here and climb up into the pines. I actually saw standing water here in one of the washes. A rare sighting. These isolated spots must have meant life or death to early desert travellers.

From Monticello we travelled east on Hwy 491 to Dove Creek, Colorado. The land changed again. The La Sals to the north and the Abajos now behind us we entered rolling plains. We began to see some dry land farming with a smattering of irrigation. Didn't really look like the Garden of Eden. Still dry country. I don't think any farmers get rich around here.

We rolled into Dove Creek - another good day.

The day was long for my Polish Princess. She said she didn't want to do another day like that (or here those famous words 'it wasn't supposed to be that far'!) How was I supposed to know what tomorrow would bring.

4 Wheelin

2009-09-12T20:54:00.000-07:00

September 7th/09 - Moab Valley RV Park

Rented a Jeep today and were off at 7:30 a.m. Toured Arches National Park and Canyon Lands National Park. Also visited Dead Horse Point State Park.

These parks are beyond description and photos do them no justice. You have to see them in person. This is Wiley E Coyote country. Only the mountains and canyons look like they are on steroids as compared to the cartoon. The Lord must have invented peyote the day that he made these parks because they are like no other place on earth.

We took a 4X4 only road through Canyon Lands. Thirty miles of road that you want to take a rental 4X4 on, not your own. We followed the Colorado River paralleling it on a high Mesa, but nowhere near the upper rim of the canyon.

Near the west end of the park we had to climb out of the canyon. I'm guessing 2,000 - 3,000 feet elevation gain straight up a wall. And I mean a straight wall.

Turns out a rancher first made the road to move his cattle up and down from the bottom to rim. This road proves that you don't have to go to school to be a genius! The Inca Indians with their little trails aren't as impressive after travelling this road.

Don't ever take this road to test your manhood. You might fail and then the gig is up. It is something to behold; switch backs carved to and fro on a cliff face. Princess spent the ride in the passenger seat hyper ventilating and dry heaving (and that's not one bit of exaggeration!! I enjoyed the first 25 miles immensely...the last 5 miles up a cliff face, not so much). I thought a road like this only existed in National Geographic photos. We lived through it. I was impressed. Tomorrow is another day.

Crazy country

2009-09-12T20:40:00.000-07:00

September 6th/09 - Moab Valley RV Park
Moab, Utah
Mileage: 102.97 km
Total mileage: 2107 km
Ride time: 5:00 hrs

Mild temperature and good early start. Rode east on the interstate for 18 miles and then turned south to head to Moab.

South to Moab was all downhill. The interstate had some grade, but nothing out of the ordinary.

Closing in on Moab the world started to look different. The mountains, and in particular the canyon we were in started to show very intense color. Mostly a dark ochre, but orange and greens were also apparent. Strange country - shear rock walls that look like huge blocks of modeling clay that were placed on top of each other.

Found a nice campground. I guess Moab wasn't as crowded as we thought. Shouldn't have spent that extra day in Green River.

Day in Green River, Utah

2009-09-12T20:34:00.001-07:00

September 5th - Still at KOA, Green River, Utah

Stayed put and relaxed. Pleasant day, mild temperature. Went to the museum and visited with Camp Hosts and other campers.

I changed the rear tire on my bike today. The old rear tire was badly worn and had a bulge created from a bruise. I must be a sucker for punishment because I put another product in the tire tubes. The product is called Flat Attack and it is supposed to be better than Slime. Which begs the question, why would I try something else when the other product, Slime, guaranteed 100% effectiveness and didn't work?? We will see how Flat Attack works.

Dry country

2009-09-12T20:16:00.000-07:00

September 4th/09 - KOA, Green River, Utah
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 2004 km
Ride time: 4:24 hrs

Ready to go this morning; Deby's Surly had a flat tire. Discovered a nail in it. Took it out, patched the tube and were on our way.

All downhill to Green River with a headwind that slowed us a bit. Also, according to the map there was supposed to be a town, called Woodside, that actually existed at the halfway point...it didn't. We stopped there for a break anyway. I discovered I had a flat tire. Fixed it and we were on our way. It was about 100 degrees.

The lack of the town we had expected left us hurting for water. By the time we pulled into Green River we pretty much drank everything that was liquid at the 1st service station we came across. Sure felt good.

Beautiful ride...solemn stretch, but busy with traffic. Everyone with a camper, a motorhome, a boat or a 4 wheel drive anything seemed to be heading south to Moab or Powell Lake. Today was the Friday before the Labor Day long weekend. Deby and I made the decision to hide out in Green River on Saturday and head to Moab on Sunday. We had little desire to catch up to that crowd.

As we travelled south from Wellington the valley widened. The valley also got increasingly dry. Truly desert. By the time we got just west of Green River the valley consisted of white hard pan and some very sparse sage and tuft grass. Mountains visible on both sides, plateaus really, and several buttes. The town of Green River is a bit of an oasis on the river. The Green River flows through it.

Beautiful Utah

2009-09-12T20:01:00.000-07:00

September 3rd/09 - Moutainview RV Park
Wellington, Utah
Mileage: 102.378 km
Total mileage: 1903 km
Ride time: 4:42 hrs

Started out this morning climbing and climbed for approximately 40 km to Soldier Summit (7,477 ft.) Long steady grade, slow going. Deby is becoming a much stronger rider now.

The scenery along the ride today was remarkable. Strange rock formation throughout the valley almost like you are on a different planet. Some of the rocks and talus slopes range from white, to dark green, light green, to orange and red. Large junipers grow everywhere along with the bush type pine that I described earlier. The brush is dense, but not so dense that you couldn't walk anywhere in these hills that you choose.

Hwy 6 SE is busy. Probably the busiest hwy we have been on yet. This along with the rumble strips that the engineers have chosen to destroy the shoulders with made the riding a little hectic.

Had a flat rear tire even with the impenetrable Slime liner and the tube full of Slime which is supposed to plug holes. I pumped it up like you're supposed to do, to let the Slime find the hole. I rode for another 1/4 mile and it was flat again. I took the tire off and there was green goo everywhere. I patched the tube like I wasn't supposed to have to do and went on. Another 1/4 mile and psst - psst - psst - slime hissing out like a fire hydrant. New hole. I took the tire off. Shit everywhere. I put in a new tube. No Slime this time and we were on our way. The old tube resembled a gooey eel and was unfixable. The myth has been busted, Slime doesn't work.

From the top of Soldier pass it was downhill all the way to Price and then Wellington. We worked for that stretch.

Deby and I are starting to ride very well together. She is starting to figure this riding thing out.

Down, down, down

2009-09-10T08:24:00.000-07:00

September 2nd/09 - Spanish Fork River Park, Utah
SE of Provo, Utah on Hwy 6
Mileage: 80.53 km
Total mileage: 1801 km
Ride time: 3:57 hrs

Talked with John before leaving Heber City this morning. Very interesting guy. Told us of his struggles with protesters when he returned from Vietnam.

John told us that back in the US he and his brother went for a drive. He said that as they were driving he saw a long haired guy who he equated with a protester. John stated that he had made horrible remarks about this guy as they continued to travel. John's brother apparently said, "why would you say those things about that guy, I have long hair too". John said to his brother, "but you're my brother". His brother then said "so is that guy". John told us that this was when one of the veils from Nam was lifted from him. War is horrible; John's comment just struck me and I had to make note of it.

All downhill from Heber City. All downhill to Provo through the beautiful Provo Canyon. The trip was fast, but it slowed in Provo and the connecting cities to the south because of congestion. However, Provo and the adjacent cities are made for cycling with wide shoulders on the main streets, and bike lanes.

Met two guys in a Chinese restaurant. Both were very interested in our trip and the one in particular was very enthusiastic. He listened to where we had come from and our plans as to where we were going. There was a silence after we had finished our story and then he blurted out "I suck!" We all laughed. Unfortunately we didn't exchange names, but the guys do have the link to our blog, so 'Chinese Food Guys' if you read this, send us an email at fehr42@hotmail.com. We'd like to talk with you again someday.

Lovely evening here. Just jumped in the river for a bath. Life is good! Goodnight.

Ups and Downs

2009-09-10T08:11:00.000-07:00

September 1st/09 - Herber City, Utah
Swiss Alps Motel
Mileage: 107.76 km
Total mileage: 1720 km
Ride time: 5:36 hrs

We started from the campground south and west still on Hwy 150. Beautiful mountains and forest, however the pine beetles have had their fill in here.

The climbing began immediately and we climbed for approximately 25 km before reaching the summit of Bald Mountain pass. The summit is 10,760 ft. I have seen people under extreme exertion get altitude sickness at these heights. Believe me, we were under extreme exertion, but we managed to top out.

Whoever built this road must have had a warped sense of humor because it is loaded with false summits and at many times is very discouraging as a result. The Princess was getting a little grouchy as we climbed, so I stayed well ahead. There was some bad mojo going on behind me. (No comment!)

Passed by Fehr Lake prior to reaching the Bald Mountain summit. I'm hoping the lake was named after a noble guy and not some horse thief a posse strung up there.

The reward for the climb, you guessed it, approximately 50 kms downhill into Kamas, Utah. At Kamas we recooped and headed for Heber City.

Just out of Kamas we went west from a town called Frances and were treated to a 10% downhill grade. We followed a canyon with all kinds of crazy rock formations. The peddling was easy but only for a time. Turns out there are some exceptional climbs on the way to Herber City.

The vistas enroute are absolutely incredible and the mountains to the west which we were approaching were huge. The views down the valleys from the heights we attained were endless. Having done all that climbing, we coasted 8 kms downhill into Heber City. A beautiful city too.

Windy Wyoming

2009-09-10T08:04:00.000-07:00

August 31st/09 - Bear River Campground, Utah
Wasatch National Forest
Mileage: 109.13 km
Total mileage: 1612 kms
Ride time: 6:02 hrs

Cycled south towards Evanston, Wyoming. Strong head wind - tough going. The locals told us that this country is always windy.

The valley grew very broad toward Evanston. Mostly flat with some gentle rolling hills. Mostly all grassland and cattle. Haven't seen one Herford. Every cow everywhere seems to be black Angus. The valley here is so broad that it almost looks like the plains, except for the far shadows of the mountains on either side.

Beyond Evanston on hwy 150 the valley gets a little tighter, and the hills a little bigger. We still faced the same vicious headwind. Still grassland and cattle.

The peddling became harder for reasons unknown at the time. The peddling was even harder than the headwind was responsible for. The mystery was solved when we reached the Utah boarder and the elevation sign indicated 7,800 ft. We had been climbing imperceptibly for miles and miles.

We entered the Wasatch National Forest and camped at the first campground we found. We had the campground all to ourselves. No more wind. We were now engulfed in forest and entering the Uinta mountain range. (Just a small tip here for those of you who shave their legs...if you are bathing in a mountain river at dusk and decide to use that new razor that you picked up, maybe rethink the decision. That razor will take the top off every goose bump along with the hair. Not real comfortable or pretty!!)

Deby's catching up

2009-09-10T07:51:00.000-07:00

August 30/09 - Randolf, Utah
Mileage: 109.1 km
Total mileage: 1503 km
Ride time: 5:20 hrs

South down Hwy 89 from Montpellier, Idaho. Large valley, agricultural and fairly flat. Made good time.

Deby was right behind me most of the day. I think she's almost ready to start carrying the tent and cook stove. Either that, or I will have to let some air out of her tires.

50 kms out we stopped at Merlin's Drive Inn restaurant for lunch. Had the best burgers in America. If you are ever by this way you have to check it out (It's in Garden City,Utah).

As we travelled south we skirted the west side of Bear Lake. Bear Lake is huge and is very unique in it's color. Although there are no glaciers around here it is that turquoise blue of a glacial lake. Heavily used for recreation; there were thousands of people on the shores and in the water enjoying it. We turned east around the south end of the lake and then made an 8 km ascent up a beautiful canyon. There is typical Utah red cliffs now starting to appear. In the canyon among the sage grew large junipers and what looked like split cone pines. The climb was lots of work, but there was no stopping for either of us. The reward, a 12 km decent to Sage Creek Junction.

All desert as we descended. At the junction we turned south on hwy 16 and into a massive headwind. This was where Deby fell behind. She took up drafting me and we continued on slowly to Randolf.

The valley here becomes like a wide plain. There is a stunning mountain range to the southeast that borders the valley with a continuous rock wall. Mostly hay land and cattle ranching here.

You know how you learn something new everyday, well, you also forget something everyday!! I know better by now, but I accepted campground information from a local, no questions asked. We ended up riding 2 miles west of town on a washboard gravel road to a run down campground in the middle of a field. Used mostly as a turn around point for other campers I'm sure. We were stuck here. You just can't back track that much when your riding a bike.

A good day anyway!

A day off in Montpellier, Idaho

2009-09-10T07:39:00.000-07:00

August 29/09 - KOA, Montpellier, Idaho
Mileage: 13.92 km
Total mileage: 1394 km

Spent the day around town doing errands. Updated our blog at the town library and then completed updates at the Super 8 Hotel after the library closed.

Met a good guy at the Super 8 who had just cycled into town. Tom Dempster started out this morning at 5:00 a.m. from Salt Lake City, Utah. When we first talked he was pulling up on his bike at about 4:00 p.m. That's a 167 mile ride, approximately 267.2 km, and nothing around here even resembles the prairies. Tom was going to stay at the hotel tonight and turn around and ride back tomorrow. Getting off his bike he looked as though he had used as much energy as it takes to run across a street beating a walk light. I appreciate that kind of tenacity. It is admirable to see that in a person. We had a long conversation and exchanged address information hoping to talk again one day.

Bought some liquid Slime today and put it in my rear tire for an experiment. Hope I don't end up down the road covered in green goop. If I do I guess it didn't work. Bought the Slime after waking up this morning with a flat tire. Can't even sleep without getting a flat.

Talked with another fella today. He was very impressed with our bicycle trip and was very encouraging. He said that our greatest commodity in life is the time we have on earth, and that we were using it well. Almost brought a tear to my eye, but then I toughened up and told him he was full of it. Well...not really. I really respected him for getting the drift of what we were doing.

Deby kicks in

2009-08-29T16:39:00.000-07:00

August 28th/09 - Montpelier, Idaho
Mileage: 107.84 km
Total mileage: 1380 km
Ride time: 5:18 hrs

Cycled south, still on Hwy 89 to Afton. Large valley now. Still agricultural. Since Alpine we have been south bound in Wyoming and we will return to Idaho closer to Montpelier.

At Afton we were directed to take another hwy which parallels 89 as they were chip coating a long stretch of the hwy. I have learned the hard way and the person who redirected us already know that chip coating and bicycle tires do not get along. We were very appreciative.

We entered the Bridger National Forest and climbed the Salt River pass to the summit of 7,000 and some odd feet. Deby was just minutes behind me when I topped out. She seemed to be keeping up really well today. I would pour it on for miles in a stretch only to look back and find her right there. Scared me on a couple of occasions.

Then it was down, down, down into Geneva, Idaho. You'd think Geneva is a town because it's on the map, but it isn't. We were in dire need of water so we asked a fella on the hwy if he could help us. He invited us into his house and we filled our water bottles.

Then it was up, up, up to the Geneva pass summit at 6,900 feet. It was a brutal grade and long. Every time you'd go around a bend the climb would continue and get steeper. I went up without stopping for fear I would never get going again. When I reached the top I only waited 3-5 minutes and the little Polish Princess came into view. She hadn't stopped either.

Met Dan at the KOA. A fellow cyclist. He was travelling from his home in Nebraska and en route to the Washington coast. Dan has been retired for 16 years and has cycled everywhere in the US. He had also cycled to Canada on a few trips.

We talked cycling and he assured me that the problems we were having with flat tires was not unusual. He said that in one day in Kansas he had had 9 flat tires. We both agreed that years ago it was never this way, but chalked it up to more traffic and road debris, and also to the modern trend of chip coating.

Also met Merlin who used to be a police officer and requested a Saskatoon Police flash. Merlin now owns a restaurant at Garden City, Utah. He hangs police flashes from all over the world inside the place.

Short day

2009-08-29T16:25:00.000-07:00

August 27th - Star Valley Ranch, Wyoming
(between Enta, Wyoming and Thayne, Wyoming)
Mileage: 74.55 km
Total mileage: 1272 km
Ride time: 4:13 hrs

Started cycling south on Hwy 89. Strong headwinds, slow going. Very wide valley here and flat road, but for the wind.

Followed the Snake River to the Palisades Dam. Here the climbing began and the valley changed to forest as we followed the Palisades Reservoir for approximately 30 km. Some steep climbs, some long descents, very windy and beautiful. I took to cycling behind Deby until it became time to climb and then went on ahead.

We continued on through Alpine which is at the south end of the reservoir. Just a mile out I got another flat tire. Yes, a sharp stone went right through my impenetrable slime liner. Fixed it and went on.

The valley widened and became agricultural. We cycled on to Etna and were directed to the Star Valley Ranch campground 6 miles down the road. Absolutely beautiful place. This whole valley we were cycling is known as the Star Valley. A lot of Americans from the south come here for the summers to escape the heat. High elevation, never gets to hot (only 89 degrees today) in the day and cools off a lot at night.

Met a guy named Wyatt here. He was camped while his house was being renovated. Man, could he talk, but very interesting. We had lots of common interests and he had a real zest for life. Wyatt felt as I do - get in the things you want to do while you're young so that when you're old you have something to talk about.

Just a nice ride

2009-08-29T16:14:00.000-07:00

August 26th - Swan Valley, Idaho
Mileage: 128.94 km
Total mileage: 1198 km
Ride time: 6:34 hrs

Nice ride from the Mud Lake area to Rexburg. Straight road with gentle rolling hills. In between you leave the irrigated area and travel through the genuine desert.

I admired the desert with the blue mountains in the background. This desert area rolls gently for miles covered with sage and a small woody plants that blooms yellow. Among the brush is sparse clump grass, burnt yellow and gone to seed.

This is land that has never been touched by man. Land that has changed over time only as the earth has changed it. I know why certain people fall in love with the desert. To stand in the middle of it is like total escape...freedom. Akin to watching a wild horse run, or a loaded touring bike with everything you need in the world on it.

At Rexburg, the irrigation and the beautiful crops began again. We took an out of the way country road through Archer to Ririe. Very peaceful with no traffic.

I got a flat tire just our of Archer. A small razor like rock went right through the tire, slim liner and into the tube. The slim liner box guaranteed this would never happen. I fixed it and we went on.

From Ririe we began climbing. Quite an elevation gain with beautiful views of the Snake River and the approaching Rocky Mountains. The climate must change up here because the irrigation seems to end. The crops in these foot hills continue to be beautiful.

We dropped into the town of Swan Valley. Very pretty. Appropriately enough, we camped at the rear of the Sadddle Sore Saloon.

(Since today is Kim's official retirement day, he got to pick where we camped and what was for supper. We stayed in the tent and had Kraft dinner with fixings for supper. A bottle of nice wine for dessert. Anyone surprised??)

Uphill with a headwind

2009-08-29T15:53:00.000-07:00

August 25th/09 - Terreton, Idaho
Mileage: 131.69 kms
Total mileage: 1069 kms
Ride time: 6:42 hrs

Met Martin again this morning at the store in Leadore. More enjoyable conversation. We showed Martin our route on a United States map and Martin gave us a United States map so we could show other people our route.

We started out into a headwind and the climb began. Nothing to extreme, but the wind made it difficult. The country became dryer and less inhabited. We cycled 30 km to the summit of Gilmore Pass (7,186 ft) and then the decent began. For the most part downhill all the way to Mud Lake, however the wind didn't abate. The only town we went through, Lone Pine, consisted of a restaurant/bar, and that was 60 km from Leadore. Although there was nothing for inhabitants in this area there were lots and lots of cattle.

Mud Lake is desert country. One of the residents told us that on average they only get about 9 inches of precipitation a year. Every crop everywhere here is irrigated, if not it won't survive. Massive network of canals and equally massive assortment of irrigation equipment. The crops, mostly grain, alfalfa and potatoes were beautiful. No camping in the area. We were directed to stay down the road 2 miles in Terreton Fair Grounds. We had a good nights sleep after a hard day. Deby was a trooper. (He's only saying that because he wasn't close enough to hear all the muttering etc coming out of my mouth because I hate wind...to walk in, canoe in, drive in and mostly to cycle in!! Between the fidgeting because of an aching rear and neck and the mutterings because of the wind I'm sure people that passed me thought I was on a ride to raise funds to cure Terrets (not sure if that's spelled correctly, but you know what I mean) syndrome!!).

Quiet, peaceful valley

2009-08-29T15:41:00.000-07:00

August 24th/09 - Leadore, Idaho
Mileage: 77.58 km
Total mileage: 937 km
Ride time: 3:55 km

Left Salmon under overcast skies with the threat of rain. Peddled south east on Hwy 28. Breaking clouds looked promising and eventually developed into a beautiful day.

Had to stop about 6 km out of Salmon. A rancher walking his dogs called to us from the ditch, "Where you going?" We told him "Florida, but not today". He told us we were crazy and then proceeded to give us a long, long history class about the area we were travelling in, including Bureau of Land Management workings and range allotments etc. etc. Very interesting. He obviously spent a lot of time with his cows and longed for some human interaction.

Americans are definitely not bashful people. Everywhere we have ridden people approach us, ask us where we are going and where we care from, and then proceed to be the most incredible embassadors. I wish Canadians were more like that and less reserved.

The valley that Hwy 28 follows starts out lush and becomes increasingly arid. From Salmon it is all uphill although the grade is very slight and it is hardly noticeable. The valley is very pretty and it is easily seen why it is marked as a scenic route on the Idaho State map.

We stopped along the way at Tendoy, Lemhi and finally Leadore. We had long conversations with people at each location. The bikes have something to do with that. Probably not the best way to put on miles but very enjoyable.

An nice fella we talked with in Leadore came out to the campground later. We missed him because we had walked to town for a coffee. He left two pops and a note..."Hello Canadians, the fellow you met in Leadore left you a little drink. Martin"

Deby's day off

2009-08-29T15:30:00.000-07:00

August 23rd/09 - Salmon, Idaho

A day off to recoup. Slept in until 9:00 a.m. Pleasant sunny morning, 68 degrees. Went out for breakfast, lunch and supper. Just like an all inclusive. Did laundry and walked about the town.

Replaced my rear tire with a 90 psi Kendra that I picked up at Valley Cycle in Hamilton, Montana. Also, put Slime liners inside my front and rear tires as well as Deby's tires.

Flat tires seems to be a real issue around here. The hardware store was full of Slime, Slime liners, and even solid rubber tubes. Thorns apparently are the problems and get worse as one travels south. Sharp and hard like finishing nails. We will see how the liners work.

Warmed up quickly during the day, but by about 3:00 p.m. it began to rain, and rain hard. Right now, at 10:45 p.m. it is still raining. Hope it cleans up for tomorrow.

Lost Trail Pass

2009-08-29T15:13:00.000-07:00

August 22/09 - Salmon, Idaho
Mileage: 98.69 km
Total mileage: 859 km
Ride Time: 4:42 hrs

Started our ascent of the Lost Trail Pass right out of the campground and continued for 20 kms. Elevation at the summit was just over 7,000 ft.

This pass was a real feat for a cyclist, any cyclist. This climb far exceeds even Bow Pass in Banff National Park. There should be a tin can buried under a small pile of rocks at the top with a scroll in it for cyclists to sign when they reach the top. They should bronze a statue of each cyclist who reaches the top. A cyclist should put his countries flag up when he reaches the top, except there is already a flag there, probably stabbed into the rocks by a guy in his motorhome who was just glad he made it. Deby did very well and had a crash course on gearing and cadence. (Actually Deby was thinking that she should have bought a razor and gotten a couple shots of testosterone before she left so that she would have this inexplicable need to conquer things like this!!).

The reward for the climb was approximately 75 km downhill ride into Salmon, Idaho. The first 20 km gliding and the rest peddling easily in our higher gears. The temperature increased almost by the minute as we descended. Temperature was in the high 90's by Salmon.

The decent was along the North Fork of the Salmon River. Lush forest transitioning into much more arid country. A much, much tighter valley than the Bitter Root Valley. Some mountains consisting of dried grass right to the top, some mountains consisting of dried grass half way up, then treed to the top, and others treed half way up with dried grass to the top. Weird, I just don't understand. On occasion we could see the Rocky Mountains just to the east of these older mountains we were travelling through.

Stopped in the valley at Josephines Pizza and Bar. Had a pop on the river with a real character who thought we were nuts. (He told us that in Montana, they don't call people like us cyclists they call us 'shit for brains'.) The other people at the bar all wanted to come with us.

Staying tonight at a campground on the east end of town. The owner must be going broke because he his is letting a nice place fall apart.

Had a flat tire on my bike about 5 kms out of Salmon. Fixed it and away we went.

Deby's big day

2009-08-29T12:35:00.001-07:00

August 21 - Sula, Montana
Mileage: 137.28 km
Ride time: 6:07 hrs
Total mileage: 761 km
Temperature: 98 degrees

The pancakes worked. We are staying in a small cabin in a campground in Sula. The only campground, in fact the only thing in Sula apart from a gas station and small store.

We cycled a long way today. I wanted to get to the base of an ascent today which divides and Montana and Idaho. I didn't want to have to do much cycling before we tackled the pass tomorrow.

We cycled south from Missoula on Hwy 93. The whole day was spent in the Bitter Root Valley. The valley was very pretty and although we gained elevation the riding was relatively flat. It made the kms go by quickly. The north end of the valley is arid country. This area resembles scenery much like the Kamloops area in BC, mountains sparsely covered in pine trees with large glades of yellow dry grass interspersed.

Towards the south end, where the valley begins to close in, it becomes more lush. The forest more dense, and the glades disappearing. Unfortunately there was a large forest fire here in 2001 and some this area is in recovery.

I have to eat a little crow today because Deby's bike with her fancy tires got another flat. We fixed it and were on our way.

Deby's bushed, sleeping as I write. Good night.

Dirt Bikes

2009-08-29T12:26:00.000-07:00

August 20/09
KOA - Missoula, Montana
Mileage: 72.12 km
Ride time: 3:56 hrs
Total: 623 km

First of all, the daily mileages do not always reflect the mileage point to point. The mileages recorded include campground to campground, campground to grocery store, grocery store and back, and any other round about riding we do. Just so nobody does the math on a map and calls me a liar. However, the mileages over the long run should be fairly accurate. I'm far to lazy at the end of the day to reset my sigma speed and subtract additional riding.

Anyway, the road construction started just south of Arlee and continued for about 20 km up a continuous grade. Much of the construction consisted of gravel detours. Deby's Surly was right at home with this, but my Nishiki with the 27" skinny tires fell a little short. Never the less the old bird carried me through (the bike I mean).

The grade, a headwind, and the construction was tough, but we forgot it all with the long smooth descent into Missoula.

We spent the rest of the day running errands in the city and got a second specialized Armadillo tire put on Deby's bike at Big Sky Cycle.

Tomorrow before we set out we are going to an all you can eat pancake breakfast...$2.50. Oh America the beautiful.

Temperature today was about 100 degrees.

Bears, Cougars and Rattlesnakes

2009-08-20T17:39:00.000-07:00

August 19th - Arlee, Montana
Mileage: 136.56 km
Total mileage: 551 km
Ride time: 6:24

We are camped in a nice campground between Ravalli and Arlee. Rode most of the day through a massive Indian Reservation. Beautiful ride, but nothing for services.

We encountered no towns where towns appeared on the map, and other towns with nothing for service but a bar. Not much more than that is needed really, but it makes cycling tough. Had to ration water like a cowboy must have had to do....long stretches.

Stopped at the only store that existed in Perma. Actually nothing else existed at all. The store was run by an old fella and was about the size of a master bedroom. Freezers and scrap wood piles adorned the front parking area. Purchased some Gator Aid. I hope Gator Aid doesn't have an expiry date. Must have been two of the 1st bottles ever produced.

Anyway, we talked with the old fella and a lady who was visiting him. Turns out he had once walked across the United States and that she had been born in Hollywood and moved to a quiet and peaceful place north of Perma called Hot Springs. Never know who you'll meet in these out of the way places, or the interesting stories they have to tell.

Continued on through Dixon. A one bar town. Stopped in and had a Coke. The little bar stunk worse than us, but we had an interesting time talking to the lady bar tender. She was one of 14 kids from a small town to the north. Don't think that she has ever been much further than Dixon her entire life. Just a week ago her first grandchild was born. It (it was a boy) was her mother's 151st grand or great grandchild.

Long day. Deby had another flat tire just west of Ravalli. Temperature was probably 100 degrees. Patched the tire and thought we were on our way again. But, the bead broke and the tube blew before the bike was even out of the ditch. Had to do it all over again...then we were on our way. We will get rid of this remaining WTB Slickasauras when we reach Missoula and replace it with another Specialized Armadillo. If you have a bike with WTB Slickasauras tires leave it in the garage and don't ever take it out! Those tires pick up everything on the road.

We hoped to camp at Ravalli but just as this area lacks services it lacks campgrounds as well. At Ravali one of the locals told us not to camp in the area because rattlesnakes were everywhere. Wasn't hard to believe since we had cycled past three or four dead snakes of some sort on the road. Not to be deterred by a snake I talked with another local. The second guy told us that the bears come down every night to eat the apples off the trees and that a cougar ripped up his dog while in his yard just the other night. He scared the cougar off with a shot gun and said that after dark the place becomes the 'Wild Kingdom'. We cycled on.

It was my turn for a flat tire before the day was over. Thankfully we were close to a campground so could pump it up a couple of times and keep rolling till we got there.

Campfire in Montana

2009-08-20T16:53:00.000-07:00

August 18th - Thompson Falls, Montana
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 415 km
Ride time: 4:45

Continued through the valley alongside the river. Very scenic with pine trees, fir and cedars lining the highway. Again, gentle rolling grades with some long straight stretches nearing Thompson Falls.

We are staying in the State Park just outside of town. River front property with a view. Had a swim in the river, a good meal and are now sitting around a campfire. We have the place to ourselves.

Deby is worried about her stiffness. I told her to 'buck up' it would go away. She's doing very well.

Did a lot of talking with people in the towns that we stopped at. No shortage of good people that want to converse with us.

Temperature was warmer today, probably 80 to 90 degrees. Traffic was light. I think everyone in this state takes an Interstate.

Wild Turkey's

2009-08-20T16:43:00.000-07:00

August 17th - Clark Forks, Idaho
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 307 km
Ride time: 4:42

Brisk wake up this morning. Newport was cool and fogged in. The temperature warmed quickly though. Daytime high was 76 degrees.

The ride today was very pleasant. Slight grades with flat stretches. Deby and I have developed a good working strategy. I ride for 10 km and then wait for 3-5 minutes for her to show up. It helps us both ride comfortably.

Replaced Deby's gashed tire in Sandpoint, Idaho with a Specialized Armadillo, Kevlar lined. We'll beat those beer bottle smashers yet.

Oh ya, wild turkeys at the campground this morning and more of them along the ride. They seem very people friendly until you get a camera out....then they run like hell.

Hwy 200 is a beautiful ride. A mountainous valley following large lakes all the while.

Camped at a beautiful campground called Johnson Creek tonight. State maintained and tucked away and little known. We learned of it from one of the locals. The local was a firefighter who later came by to make sure that we had found the place.

Big Climb

2009-08-20T16:29:00.000-07:00

August 16th - Newport, Washington
Mileage - 97.16 Km
Total mileage - 205 Km
Ride time: 5:07 hours

Staying at the K&M Campground in Newport. Absolutely beautiful. Deby treated herself to a soak in the hot tub.

Cycled south to Chewelah, Wa and then east to Newport. From Chewelah to Usk is a road called the Flowery Trail. Huge long climb to the Chewelah summit at 4046 ft. I don't know what the elevation was from the valley floor, but it was way down there. Very pretty ride, but extreme.

Deby rode hard and did well. I was proud of the old girl. At half a century old I know that she did more today than 90% of girls half her age could have done. (Deby's comments are in brackets.... ahhh isn't he cute!!)

Stopped to wait for Deby at one point. Heard a rustling in the ditch and looked over to see a cow moose approximately 20' from me. Her beautiful brown eyes met my beautiful brown eyes and we shared a moment. Not unlike those credit card commercials. Then old blue eyes rode up and the moment was gone.

The reward for the long climb was the decent. Lots and lots of free kilometers. I reached 63 km/hr at a couple of points. Far to fast to travel on a loaded bike, but I couldn't help myself. The problems that can happen with a loaded bike range from speed wobbles to equipment failure, such as bags, snaps, bungees, carriers etc. etc. Oh well....

Deby's 1st day

2009-08-20T16:15:00.000-07:00

August 15th - Arden, Washington
Mileage - 108.51 km
Ride time: 4:56 hour/min

Camped beside the Coville River on Ardene Hill Road. I hope it is State land, but not sure. We were mislead in Colville by a resident who was trying to be helpful, that there was a campground 3/4 mile south of town. No such luck. Upon peddling to Arden a nice lady told us where we could get away with setting up a tent.

Two flat tires on Deby's bike. One at Orient and the second at Colville. Beer bottle glass on both occasions. Additionally I had to use a tire boot for old damage that turned into a gash. Walmart in Colville did not have a tube, or tire for Deby's bike, so I patched the tube and we continued to run with the boot. All said, repairs took a lot of time out of our day. We ended up camping at near dark.

Deby was trying to help with camp, but she was walking around like a diabetic in shock. She couldn't figure out the tent and ended up wrapping a bungee tightly into the rear cog of my bike trying to be helpful. I sat her down and took over. She recovered.

The temperature was beautiful throughout, probably 70 to 80 degrees (you'll have to convert to Celsius). Beautiful scenery mostly through pines following the Kettle River to the north end of Roosevelt Lake. The country opened up into a mountainous valley with farmland to the south of Colville.

Light traffic with consistent rolling hills and moderate grades.

Loaded in Grand Forks

2009-08-14T23:18:00.000-07:00

All packed and ready to go tomorrow morning. I'm excited to get rolling, Deby is nervous, about what I'm not sure.

I hate packing. I wish I could just hire someone to do it. To many decisions about what to take etc. etc. I'll feel better once we are finally riding; it's been a long wait.

We are planning to ride to Colville, Washington tomorrow. Deby is is comfortable with a shorter 1st day. I'm thinking we will get farther. I know my Polish Princess is much more capable than she thinks she is. In fact, its a bit early to say, but I'll bet that when we finish this trip she'll decide she wants to hike the Appalachian Trail with me in 2011.

Bedtime, have to load and ride early.