October 29th/09 - Key West, FL
Double Tree Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,730 km
We left Marathon south bound on our very last leg of the journey. Sunny skies and the wind behind us, just as brother Greg had wished for us when we visited back in Bay City, Texas. Record high temperatures for this time of year. I think it was 90 degrees or something like that. All the Floridians are complaining but Deby and I find it quite comfortable...strange, eh.
Hwy 1 immediately took us over the seven mile bridge to Bahia Honda, our tires whining as we travelled easily in high gear. The palm branches chased us as we passed by, sailing down the road. Through Big Pine Key, Ramrod and Summerland Key, just to name a few. Then mysteriously and without conversation, we began to slow. Both Deby and I began to loose our expression of elation and we began to doddle. Slower and slower we rode. At one point we stopped to watch several iguanas at the roadside and at another point we stopped on a bridge for some time to watch a shark lazily swimming in the emerald waters. We talked and realized that neither of us wanted this trip to end. What was supposed to be a victorious occasion was now an occasion that we approached with mixed feelings.
We continued on through Sugarloaf Key, Boca Chica and finally to Key West. Immediately we rode to the monument marking the Southern most point of Continental USA for a photo shoot. We somewhat forced a smile and had another tourist take a photo of us. Again, mixed feelings.
This trip has been long, but it feels like we started it yesterday. This trip has been ripe with hardship, challenges and even pain, which all seems to have happened a thousand years ago...all forgotten (well mostly!). This trip has been full of beauty, oneness with nature, friendship and memories that will last forever.
There is no medication for our mixed feelings, nothing that can remedy those pangs. The only hope we have is to cycle from Alaska to Grand Forks next spring to complete the trip, north to south. Too bad I didn't think of that before we started. (Jury is still out if I'm going along on that leg, but there is a very strong possibility!).
Calypso, my bike, has been retired. I gave the 25 year old bike to the owner of the bicycle shop here...'Fixed Gears'. He said he knows a tall hippie that could use him. Calypso will spend his final years rolling through the sea breezes under the palms. Couldn't be a finer retirement for a machine that has served me so well.
October 31st we fly home to Grand Forks. Thank you all for coming along with us. It has meant a lot to us to keep our friends and family informed of our adventure, and we thank you for the many comments of encouragement along the way. May all your adventures be as wonderful!!
Friday, October 30, 2009
Closing In
October 28th/09-Marathon, FL
Ranch House Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,650 km
Tonight we are staying in a small motel in Marathon. We cycled south through several Keys en route; Travernier, Plantation, Windley, Upper Matecumbe, Teatable, Indian, Lower Matecumbe, Fiesta, Long, Duck, Grassy, Crawl, Fat Deer and finally Stirrup Key where Marathon is located.
Many small communities. Very picturesque ride with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right. Brilliant green emerald waters.
Most of the Keys have bicycle paths adjacent to the Hwy. We took the paths when it suited us but mostly we stuck to the Hwy. It's hard to make time on the paths and the bicycle paths have dangers of their own. Motorists coming from the rear and making a right turn are rather oblivious to the fact that a cyclist may be beside them and motorists approaching the Hwy from a side street don't always look for a cyclist on the path. Thus, cycling on the path does tend to take some of the joy from the experience.
In Islamorada we talked with a group of ladies after having lunch at a restaurant. We learned from them that crocodiles from the southern tip of Florida are beginning to show up in the Keys. That's crocodiles, not alligators. Crocodiles are saltwater creatures and more aggressive than alligators - interesting. We had an enjoyable conversation the these ladies. They seemed to have a lot of fun together and both Deby and I thought they must have some pretty wild wine and cheese parties. I say this because I think they are reading this and laughing because it's true. Come on girls, ain't it so?
A four foot iguana ran along beside us today. Amazingly fast and powerful animals. Big racket, rocks flying. Beautiful reptiles. I hope they are native here and that people just don't let their pets go.
Tomorrow we will end our trip at Key West, the southern most point of the continental United States; southern most point of North America for that matter. Deby is happy with the achievement; I am sad that it will be over, but if we go any further we will drown.
Ranch House Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,650 km
Tonight we are staying in a small motel in Marathon. We cycled south through several Keys en route; Travernier, Plantation, Windley, Upper Matecumbe, Teatable, Indian, Lower Matecumbe, Fiesta, Long, Duck, Grassy, Crawl, Fat Deer and finally Stirrup Key where Marathon is located.
Many small communities. Very picturesque ride with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right. Brilliant green emerald waters.
Most of the Keys have bicycle paths adjacent to the Hwy. We took the paths when it suited us but mostly we stuck to the Hwy. It's hard to make time on the paths and the bicycle paths have dangers of their own. Motorists coming from the rear and making a right turn are rather oblivious to the fact that a cyclist may be beside them and motorists approaching the Hwy from a side street don't always look for a cyclist on the path. Thus, cycling on the path does tend to take some of the joy from the experience.
In Islamorada we talked with a group of ladies after having lunch at a restaurant. We learned from them that crocodiles from the southern tip of Florida are beginning to show up in the Keys. That's crocodiles, not alligators. Crocodiles are saltwater creatures and more aggressive than alligators - interesting. We had an enjoyable conversation the these ladies. They seemed to have a lot of fun together and both Deby and I thought they must have some pretty wild wine and cheese parties. I say this because I think they are reading this and laughing because it's true. Come on girls, ain't it so?
A four foot iguana ran along beside us today. Amazingly fast and powerful animals. Big racket, rocks flying. Beautiful reptiles. I hope they are native here and that people just don't let their pets go.
Tomorrow we will end our trip at Key West, the southern most point of the continental United States; southern most point of North America for that matter. Deby is happy with the achievement; I am sad that it will be over, but if we go any further we will drown.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Swimming with the fish
October 27th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Took the day off and went on a snorkeling charter out to the Enchanted Reef. Both Deby and I loved it. 1 1/2 hours in the water swimming with the fish.
The water world is so undiscovered to so many, so much beauty. We swam among the schools and along with the schools of fish. The tens of thousands of fish didn't mind our presence and many of them even appeared curious of us. I don't think there is anything more accepting than a fish. (Unless of course it's a shark, that thankfully we didn't see)
Our dive buddies were Adam and Michelle and we very much enjoyed their company on the boat. More American hospitality. Thank-you both!!
Tomorrow we continue south. We are not sure what Key we will end up on, but I know we are going to enjoy another day.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Took the day off and went on a snorkeling charter out to the Enchanted Reef. Both Deby and I loved it. 1 1/2 hours in the water swimming with the fish.
The water world is so undiscovered to so many, so much beauty. We swam among the schools and along with the schools of fish. The tens of thousands of fish didn't mind our presence and many of them even appeared curious of us. I don't think there is anything more accepting than a fish. (Unless of course it's a shark, that thankfully we didn't see)
Our dive buddies were Adam and Michelle and we very much enjoyed their company on the boat. More American hospitality. Thank-you both!!
Tomorrow we continue south. We are not sure what Key we will end up on, but I know we are going to enjoy another day.
The Keys
October 26th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Mileage: 35 Km
Total mileage: 6,570 km
We left this morning south on Hwy 1 from Florida City. Very busy hwy. Everyone who wants to go to the Keys has to use this road, and Miami being so close, you can imagine the traffic. We made it to Key Largo and it's a good feeling to be so close to our final destination.
Met two other cyclists in the park this evening. Jesse and Angelina had just left Miami and in a round about way were headed for Oregon. They were heading to Key West first and then taking a boat to Fort Myers. From there they were going north through Florida and then west to California. From California, north to Oregon.
They looked a little ill prepared and confused at the end of their first day as they struggled to put up their tent in the dark. I tried to share some wisdom with Jesse as to what to expect in days to come as they travelled. Such things as equipment failures, repairs, maintenance, weather, campgrounds, or lack thereof, don't get discouraged, things always get better, yada, yada, yada. I could tell he really wasn't listening. He had become brainwashed by well intentioned bicycle shop employees.
A rare few bicycle shop employees ever tour. They may have taken a trip on a bike, but an expedition is a whole different story. They may cycle 50 km everyday after work in preparation for a 100 km race on the weekend, but it's not the same! To make an expedition easier you have to listen to people who have done it before.
I felt I had to do something for Jesse and Angelina, but I couldn't figure out what. I thought of at least giving him my Walmart spare tire, Deby and I being so close to the end of our journey. Then I looked at the onion skin rear tire on my bike and thought otherwise. I might need that spare in the next 100 miles. In the end, Deby and I gave Jess and Angelina $20 each with a word of encouragement. It had meant so much to us when times were dark that there were people out there that knew we could do it.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Mileage: 35 Km
Total mileage: 6,570 km
We left this morning south on Hwy 1 from Florida City. Very busy hwy. Everyone who wants to go to the Keys has to use this road, and Miami being so close, you can imagine the traffic. We made it to Key Largo and it's a good feeling to be so close to our final destination.
Met two other cyclists in the park this evening. Jesse and Angelina had just left Miami and in a round about way were headed for Oregon. They were heading to Key West first and then taking a boat to Fort Myers. From there they were going north through Florida and then west to California. From California, north to Oregon.
They looked a little ill prepared and confused at the end of their first day as they struggled to put up their tent in the dark. I tried to share some wisdom with Jesse as to what to expect in days to come as they travelled. Such things as equipment failures, repairs, maintenance, weather, campgrounds, or lack thereof, don't get discouraged, things always get better, yada, yada, yada. I could tell he really wasn't listening. He had become brainwashed by well intentioned bicycle shop employees.
A rare few bicycle shop employees ever tour. They may have taken a trip on a bike, but an expedition is a whole different story. They may cycle 50 km everyday after work in preparation for a 100 km race on the weekend, but it's not the same! To make an expedition easier you have to listen to people who have done it before.
I felt I had to do something for Jesse and Angelina, but I couldn't figure out what. I thought of at least giving him my Walmart spare tire, Deby and I being so close to the end of our journey. Then I looked at the onion skin rear tire on my bike and thought otherwise. I might need that spare in the next 100 miles. In the end, Deby and I gave Jess and Angelina $20 each with a word of encouragement. It had meant so much to us when times were dark that there were people out there that knew we could do it.
Gators, snakes and panathers
October 25th/09 - Florida City, FL
EconoLodge
Mileage: 180 km
Total milage: 6,535 km
Tonight we are staying at the EconoLodge in Florida City. We thought we would be staying in Homestead, but somewhere we crossed a street and ended up in Florida City.
Long ride today, 180 Kms. Deby was bound and determined not to camp in the Everglades and it so happens that from Naples to Florida City it is almost all Everglades! We passed more campgrounds travelling through this area than we have on the whole trip, but no, on we went. The idea of alligators and snakes was bad enough for her, but when we saw several road signs allerting motorists of panther crossings, that cinched it.
Riding through the Everglades was beautiful. We had a tailwind, a bright sunny day, and the traffic was light. Gators like this kind of weather as well. Hopefully not because the cyclists are out, but because they like to sun themselves in the grass and for the same reason they float at the top of the water. We saw lots of them. If there is water, there truly is a gator here. Deby was also amused (Not!!) by snakes falling out of trees into the canal beside the road as we rode by.
The ride through the Everglades was like watching an I-Max movie. Many species of beautiful exotic birds flew from the water and the trees as we passed by. They flew beside us and they flew in front of us. With the wind behind us, we rode in silence hearing only their song and the wind over their wings. A day of jaw dropping beauty. I wish I knew the names of the different types of birds we were seeing. All I can say is big, various colors, long long legs and long long beaks.
While the wildlife was jaw dropping we had to keep our mouths shut. The bugs at times rained on us. Interestingly enough the different bugs have their own locales and they don't mix. First we had the clouds of little guys. The ones that fill your eyes and nose. Later we had the bugs that bleed their guts all over you as they strike. Lastly we had the flocks of round beetles that hit you like a rock and come along for the ride.
Princess got a trophy beetle in the eye. Her eye swelled up. She's kind of got the 'Festis' look from 'Gun Smoke,' but she's healing.
Tomorrow we plan to be on Key Largo. The final run.
EconoLodge
Mileage: 180 km
Total milage: 6,535 km
Tonight we are staying at the EconoLodge in Florida City. We thought we would be staying in Homestead, but somewhere we crossed a street and ended up in Florida City.
Long ride today, 180 Kms. Deby was bound and determined not to camp in the Everglades and it so happens that from Naples to Florida City it is almost all Everglades! We passed more campgrounds travelling through this area than we have on the whole trip, but no, on we went. The idea of alligators and snakes was bad enough for her, but when we saw several road signs allerting motorists of panther crossings, that cinched it.
Riding through the Everglades was beautiful. We had a tailwind, a bright sunny day, and the traffic was light. Gators like this kind of weather as well. Hopefully not because the cyclists are out, but because they like to sun themselves in the grass and for the same reason they float at the top of the water. We saw lots of them. If there is water, there truly is a gator here. Deby was also amused (Not!!) by snakes falling out of trees into the canal beside the road as we rode by.
The ride through the Everglades was like watching an I-Max movie. Many species of beautiful exotic birds flew from the water and the trees as we passed by. They flew beside us and they flew in front of us. With the wind behind us, we rode in silence hearing only their song and the wind over their wings. A day of jaw dropping beauty. I wish I knew the names of the different types of birds we were seeing. All I can say is big, various colors, long long legs and long long beaks.
While the wildlife was jaw dropping we had to keep our mouths shut. The bugs at times rained on us. Interestingly enough the different bugs have their own locales and they don't mix. First we had the clouds of little guys. The ones that fill your eyes and nose. Later we had the bugs that bleed their guts all over you as they strike. Lastly we had the flocks of round beetles that hit you like a rock and come along for the ride.
Princess got a trophy beetle in the eye. Her eye swelled up. She's kind of got the 'Festis' look from 'Gun Smoke,' but she's healing.
Tomorrow we plan to be on Key Largo. The final run.
Pressing on
October 24th/09 - Naples, FL
Gulf Coast Inn
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,355 km
Tonight we are staying in a beautiful hotel in Naples. $59 for the stay. These low season rates are fantastic.
Naples is a gorgeous place. Every tree, every bush, every blade of grass is manicured. I imagine the residents demand it that way. This is no ordinary city. I have never seen so many $80,000+ vehicles in any one place at any one time.
We left Punta Gorda this morning under sunny skies. Hot today. Temperatures were in the 90's. We travelled south on Hwy 41 through Tropical Gulf Acres and several other communities to Fort Myers.
At Fort Myers I had a flat tire. To make a long story short, due to the location of the hole in the tube I couldn't patch it. No problem, I always have a spare tube. I took my spare out of its box which was labeled 27" only to find the tube was actually a 26". Hooped...it didn't fit. As I sat perplexed, a fella, later known to me as Dennis Willy, approached me and said he would take me to the local Walmart to get another tube. His wife Marlene stayed with Deby and they made girl talk. Fixed the tire thanks to Dennis and Marlene and were on our way.
Continued south through Estero, Bonita Springs and on to Naples. Again, the towns were very close together, but the ride today was more rural than yesterday. Heavy traffic, but no problems.
Editorial time - I cringe when people state that cycle touring must be fun. It is not fun. Of a long list of adjectives that describe cycling 'fun' is at the bottom.
Cycle touring is peddling up high mountain passes that never seem to end; peddling up those passes when it's to hot, or when it's to cold, or in the pouring rain and having to fix a flat halfway up. Cycle touring is running out of water in the desert and having to go on for hours because there is just no one. Cycle touring is eating peanut butter and honey sandwiches for supper because the town you were going to get groceries in didn't exist. Cycle touring is not showering for days as you travel through the middle of no where. Cycle touring is sleeping who knows where. And then there's the wind.
Cycle touring is surreal as you coast through creation seeing the sights and smelling the scents. Cycle touring is community; meeting the people as you travel, hearing their stories and enjoying their company. Cycle touring is hardship; the hardship that makes the rewards greater.
For everything cycle touring is, it is not fun. Cycle touring is tough and gruelling, but very, very addictive.
Gulf Coast Inn
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,355 km
Tonight we are staying in a beautiful hotel in Naples. $59 for the stay. These low season rates are fantastic.
Naples is a gorgeous place. Every tree, every bush, every blade of grass is manicured. I imagine the residents demand it that way. This is no ordinary city. I have never seen so many $80,000+ vehicles in any one place at any one time.
We left Punta Gorda this morning under sunny skies. Hot today. Temperatures were in the 90's. We travelled south on Hwy 41 through Tropical Gulf Acres and several other communities to Fort Myers.
At Fort Myers I had a flat tire. To make a long story short, due to the location of the hole in the tube I couldn't patch it. No problem, I always have a spare tube. I took my spare out of its box which was labeled 27" only to find the tube was actually a 26". Hooped...it didn't fit. As I sat perplexed, a fella, later known to me as Dennis Willy, approached me and said he would take me to the local Walmart to get another tube. His wife Marlene stayed with Deby and they made girl talk. Fixed the tire thanks to Dennis and Marlene and were on our way.
Continued south through Estero, Bonita Springs and on to Naples. Again, the towns were very close together, but the ride today was more rural than yesterday. Heavy traffic, but no problems.
Editorial time - I cringe when people state that cycle touring must be fun. It is not fun. Of a long list of adjectives that describe cycling 'fun' is at the bottom.
Cycle touring is peddling up high mountain passes that never seem to end; peddling up those passes when it's to hot, or when it's to cold, or in the pouring rain and having to fix a flat halfway up. Cycle touring is running out of water in the desert and having to go on for hours because there is just no one. Cycle touring is eating peanut butter and honey sandwiches for supper because the town you were going to get groceries in didn't exist. Cycle touring is not showering for days as you travel through the middle of no where. Cycle touring is sleeping who knows where. And then there's the wind.
Cycle touring is surreal as you coast through creation seeing the sights and smelling the scents. Cycle touring is community; meeting the people as you travel, hearing their stories and enjoying their company. Cycle touring is hardship; the hardship that makes the rewards greater.
For everything cycle touring is, it is not fun. Cycle touring is tough and gruelling, but very, very addictive.
Friday, October 23, 2009
City riding
October 23rd - Punta Gorda, FL
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,254km
Leaving Palmetto we travelled south on Hwy 41 through Bradenton, Sarasota, Osprey, Laurel, Nokomis, Venice, North Port, Port Charlotte, Charlotte Harbor and finally to Punta Gorda. Nearing the end of our day I knew we were in luck when we crossed Charlotte Harbor and from the bridge viewed lots of hotels along its south shore being Punta Gorda. Tired of trying to find campgrounds we got a room at the Best Western with an ocean view. Beautiful community.
The entire day was city riding. The towns may have different names but each and every one of them are linked together. It was a very different kind of riding day, but interesting with lots to take in. Multi-lane congested traffic all day, but everyone was polite and gave us the room we needed.
I find that if you ride out into the right lane a bit you are visible to motorists at a greater distance and they will go around you. If you hug the curb on the right side of the road they won't give you an inch.
The motorists around here are well behaved. It is a matter of survival. There is so much traffic that rules of the road and speed limits have to be obeyed to keep the flow continuous. If you can ride a bike among motorists in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and survive, riding here is a pleasure.
Apart from Punta Gorda, Sarasota was particularly beautiful. We rode along the water front, the parks and marinas.
The day was slow going. Lots of traffic lights to negotiate and lots of exits and merges to navigate. Average riding speed was down throughout.
Sunny, warm, good to be alive!
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,254km
Leaving Palmetto we travelled south on Hwy 41 through Bradenton, Sarasota, Osprey, Laurel, Nokomis, Venice, North Port, Port Charlotte, Charlotte Harbor and finally to Punta Gorda. Nearing the end of our day I knew we were in luck when we crossed Charlotte Harbor and from the bridge viewed lots of hotels along its south shore being Punta Gorda. Tired of trying to find campgrounds we got a room at the Best Western with an ocean view. Beautiful community.
The entire day was city riding. The towns may have different names but each and every one of them are linked together. It was a very different kind of riding day, but interesting with lots to take in. Multi-lane congested traffic all day, but everyone was polite and gave us the room we needed.
I find that if you ride out into the right lane a bit you are visible to motorists at a greater distance and they will go around you. If you hug the curb on the right side of the road they won't give you an inch.
The motorists around here are well behaved. It is a matter of survival. There is so much traffic that rules of the road and speed limits have to be obeyed to keep the flow continuous. If you can ride a bike among motorists in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and survive, riding here is a pleasure.
Apart from Punta Gorda, Sarasota was particularly beautiful. We rode along the water front, the parks and marinas.
The day was slow going. Lots of traffic lights to negotiate and lots of exits and merges to navigate. Average riding speed was down throughout.
Sunny, warm, good to be alive!
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