Saturday, August 29, 2009

Deby kicks in

August 28th/09 - Montpelier, Idaho
Mileage: 107.84 km
Total mileage: 1380 km
Ride time: 5:18 hrs

Cycled south, still on Hwy 89 to Afton. Large valley now. Still agricultural. Since Alpine we have been south bound in Wyoming and we will return to Idaho closer to Montpelier.

At Afton we were directed to take another hwy which parallels 89 as they were chip coating a long stretch of the hwy. I have learned the hard way and the person who redirected us already know that chip coating and bicycle tires do not get along. We were very appreciative.

We entered the Bridger National Forest and climbed the Salt River pass to the summit of 7,000 and some odd feet. Deby was just minutes behind me when I topped out. She seemed to be keeping up really well today. I would pour it on for miles in a stretch only to look back and find her right there. Scared me on a couple of occasions.

Then it was down, down, down into Geneva, Idaho. You'd think Geneva is a town because it's on the map, but it isn't. We were in dire need of water so we asked a fella on the hwy if he could help us. He invited us into his house and we filled our water bottles.

Then it was up, up, up to the Geneva pass summit at 6,900 feet. It was a brutal grade and long. Every time you'd go around a bend the climb would continue and get steeper. I went up without stopping for fear I would never get going again. When I reached the top I only waited 3-5 minutes and the little Polish Princess came into view. She hadn't stopped either.

Met Dan at the KOA. A fellow cyclist. He was travelling from his home in Nebraska and en route to the Washington coast. Dan has been retired for 16 years and has cycled everywhere in the US. He had also cycled to Canada on a few trips.

We talked cycling and he assured me that the problems we were having with flat tires was not unusual. He said that in one day in Kansas he had had 9 flat tires. We both agreed that years ago it was never this way, but chalked it up to more traffic and road debris, and also to the modern trend of chip coating.

Also met Merlin who used to be a police officer and requested a Saskatoon Police flash. Merlin now owns a restaurant at Garden City, Utah. He hangs police flashes from all over the world inside the place.

Short day

August 27th - Star Valley Ranch, Wyoming
(between Enta, Wyoming and Thayne, Wyoming)
Mileage: 74.55 km
Total mileage: 1272 km
Ride time: 4:13 hrs

Started cycling south on Hwy 89. Strong headwinds, slow going. Very wide valley here and flat road, but for the wind.

Followed the Snake River to the Palisades Dam. Here the climbing began and the valley changed to forest as we followed the Palisades Reservoir for approximately 30 km. Some steep climbs, some long descents, very windy and beautiful. I took to cycling behind Deby until it became time to climb and then went on ahead.

We continued on through Alpine which is at the south end of the reservoir. Just a mile out I got another flat tire. Yes, a sharp stone went right through my impenetrable slime liner. Fixed it and went on.

The valley widened and became agricultural. We cycled on to Etna and were directed to the Star Valley Ranch campground 6 miles down the road. Absolutely beautiful place. This whole valley we were cycling is known as the Star Valley. A lot of Americans from the south come here for the summers to escape the heat. High elevation, never gets to hot (only 89 degrees today) in the day and cools off a lot at night.

Met a guy named Wyatt here. He was camped while his house was being renovated. Man, could he talk, but very interesting. We had lots of common interests and he had a real zest for life. Wyatt felt as I do - get in the things you want to do while you're young so that when you're old you have something to talk about.

Just a nice ride

August 26th - Swan Valley, Idaho
Mileage: 128.94 km
Total mileage: 1198 km
Ride time: 6:34 hrs

Nice ride from the Mud Lake area to Rexburg. Straight road with gentle rolling hills. In between you leave the irrigated area and travel through the genuine desert.

I admired the desert with the blue mountains in the background. This desert area rolls gently for miles covered with sage and a small woody plants that blooms yellow. Among the brush is sparse clump grass, burnt yellow and gone to seed.

This is land that has never been touched by man. Land that has changed over time only as the earth has changed it. I know why certain people fall in love with the desert. To stand in the middle of it is like total escape...freedom. Akin to watching a wild horse run, or a loaded touring bike with everything you need in the world on it.

At Rexburg, the irrigation and the beautiful crops began again. We took an out of the way country road through Archer to Ririe. Very peaceful with no traffic.

I got a flat tire just our of Archer. A small razor like rock went right through the tire, slim liner and into the tube. The slim liner box guaranteed this would never happen. I fixed it and we went on.

From Ririe we began climbing. Quite an elevation gain with beautiful views of the Snake River and the approaching Rocky Mountains. The climate must change up here because the irrigation seems to end. The crops in these foot hills continue to be beautiful.

We dropped into the town of Swan Valley. Very pretty. Appropriately enough, we camped at the rear of the Sadddle Sore Saloon.

(Since today is Kim's official retirement day, he got to pick where we camped and what was for supper. We stayed in the tent and had Kraft dinner with fixings for supper. A bottle of nice wine for dessert. Anyone surprised??)

Uphill with a headwind

August 25th/09 - Terreton, Idaho
Mileage: 131.69 kms
Total mileage: 1069 kms
Ride time: 6:42 hrs

Met Martin again this morning at the store in Leadore. More enjoyable conversation. We showed Martin our route on a United States map and Martin gave us a United States map so we could show other people our route.

We started out into a headwind and the climb began. Nothing to extreme, but the wind made it difficult. The country became dryer and less inhabited. We cycled 30 km to the summit of Gilmore Pass (7,186 ft) and then the decent began. For the most part downhill all the way to Mud Lake, however the wind didn't abate. The only town we went through, Lone Pine, consisted of a restaurant/bar, and that was 60 km from Leadore. Although there was nothing for inhabitants in this area there were lots and lots of cattle.

Mud Lake is desert country. One of the residents told us that on average they only get about 9 inches of precipitation a year. Every crop everywhere here is irrigated, if not it won't survive. Massive network of canals and equally massive assortment of irrigation equipment. The crops, mostly grain, alfalfa and potatoes were beautiful. No camping in the area. We were directed to stay down the road 2 miles in Terreton Fair Grounds. We had a good nights sleep after a hard day. Deby was a trooper. (He's only saying that because he wasn't close enough to hear all the muttering etc coming out of my mouth because I hate wind...to walk in, canoe in, drive in and mostly to cycle in!! Between the fidgeting because of an aching rear and neck and the mutterings because of the wind I'm sure people that passed me thought I was on a ride to raise funds to cure Terrets (not sure if that's spelled correctly, but you know what I mean) syndrome!!).

Quiet, peaceful valley

August 24th/09 - Leadore, Idaho
Mileage: 77.58 km
Total mileage: 937 km
Ride time: 3:55 km

Left Salmon under overcast skies with the threat of rain. Peddled south east on Hwy 28. Breaking clouds looked promising and eventually developed into a beautiful day.

Had to stop about 6 km out of Salmon. A rancher walking his dogs called to us from the ditch, "Where you going?" We told him "Florida, but not today". He told us we were crazy and then proceeded to give us a long, long history class about the area we were travelling in, including Bureau of Land Management workings and range allotments etc. etc. Very interesting. He obviously spent a lot of time with his cows and longed for some human interaction.

Americans are definitely not bashful people. Everywhere we have ridden people approach us, ask us where we are going and where we care from, and then proceed to be the most incredible embassadors. I wish Canadians were more like that and less reserved.

The valley that Hwy 28 follows starts out lush and becomes increasingly arid. From Salmon it is all uphill although the grade is very slight and it is hardly noticeable. The valley is very pretty and it is easily seen why it is marked as a scenic route on the Idaho State map.

We stopped along the way at Tendoy, Lemhi and finally Leadore. We had long conversations with people at each location. The bikes have something to do with that. Probably not the best way to put on miles but very enjoyable.

An nice fella we talked with in Leadore came out to the campground later. We missed him because we had walked to town for a coffee. He left two pops and a note..."Hello Canadians, the fellow you met in Leadore left you a little drink. Martin"

Deby's day off

August 23rd/09 - Salmon, Idaho

A day off to recoup. Slept in until 9:00 a.m. Pleasant sunny morning, 68 degrees. Went out for breakfast, lunch and supper. Just like an all inclusive. Did laundry and walked about the town.

Replaced my rear tire with a 90 psi Kendra that I picked up at Valley Cycle in Hamilton, Montana. Also, put Slime liners inside my front and rear tires as well as Deby's tires.

Flat tires seems to be a real issue around here. The hardware store was full of Slime, Slime liners, and even solid rubber tubes. Thorns apparently are the problems and get worse as one travels south. Sharp and hard like finishing nails. We will see how the liners work.

Warmed up quickly during the day, but by about 3:00 p.m. it began to rain, and rain hard. Right now, at 10:45 p.m. it is still raining. Hope it cleans up for tomorrow.

Lost Trail Pass

August 22/09 - Salmon, Idaho
Mileage: 98.69 km
Total mileage: 859 km
Ride Time: 4:42 hrs

Started our ascent of the Lost Trail Pass right out of the campground and continued for 20 kms. Elevation at the summit was just over 7,000 ft.

This pass was a real feat for a cyclist, any cyclist. This climb far exceeds even Bow Pass in Banff National Park. There should be a tin can buried under a small pile of rocks at the top with a scroll in it for cyclists to sign when they reach the top. They should bronze a statue of each cyclist who reaches the top. A cyclist should put his countries flag up when he reaches the top, except there is already a flag there, probably stabbed into the rocks by a guy in his motorhome who was just glad he made it. Deby did very well and had a crash course on gearing and cadence. (Actually Deby was thinking that she should have bought a razor and gotten a couple shots of testosterone before she left so that she would have this inexplicable need to conquer things like this!!).

The reward for the climb was approximately 75 km downhill ride into Salmon, Idaho. The first 20 km gliding and the rest peddling easily in our higher gears. The temperature increased almost by the minute as we descended. Temperature was in the high 90's by Salmon.

The decent was along the North Fork of the Salmon River. Lush forest transitioning into much more arid country. A much, much tighter valley than the Bitter Root Valley. Some mountains consisting of dried grass right to the top, some mountains consisting of dried grass half way up, then treed to the top, and others treed half way up with dried grass to the top. Weird, I just don't understand. On occasion we could see the Rocky Mountains just to the east of these older mountains we were travelling through.

Stopped in the valley at Josephines Pizza and Bar. Had a pop on the river with a real character who thought we were nuts. (He told us that in Montana, they don't call people like us cyclists they call us 'shit for brains'.) The other people at the bar all wanted to come with us.

Staying tonight at a campground on the east end of town. The owner must be going broke because he his is letting a nice place fall apart.

Had a flat tire on my bike about 5 kms out of Salmon. Fixed it and away we went.

Deby's big day

August 21 - Sula, Montana
Mileage: 137.28 km
Ride time: 6:07 hrs
Total mileage: 761 km
Temperature: 98 degrees

The pancakes worked. We are staying in a small cabin in a campground in Sula. The only campground, in fact the only thing in Sula apart from a gas station and small store.

We cycled a long way today. I wanted to get to the base of an ascent today which divides and Montana and Idaho. I didn't want to have to do much cycling before we tackled the pass tomorrow.

We cycled south from Missoula on Hwy 93. The whole day was spent in the Bitter Root Valley. The valley was very pretty and although we gained elevation the riding was relatively flat. It made the kms go by quickly. The north end of the valley is arid country. This area resembles scenery much like the Kamloops area in BC, mountains sparsely covered in pine trees with large glades of yellow dry grass interspersed.

Towards the south end, where the valley begins to close in, it becomes more lush. The forest more dense, and the glades disappearing. Unfortunately there was a large forest fire here in 2001 and some this area is in recovery.

I have to eat a little crow today because Deby's bike with her fancy tires got another flat. We fixed it and were on our way.

Deby's bushed, sleeping as I write. Good night.

Dirt Bikes

August 20/09
KOA - Missoula, Montana
Mileage: 72.12 km
Ride time: 3:56 hrs
Total: 623 km

First of all, the daily mileages do not always reflect the mileage point to point. The mileages recorded include campground to campground, campground to grocery store, grocery store and back, and any other round about riding we do. Just so nobody does the math on a map and calls me a liar. However, the mileages over the long run should be fairly accurate. I'm far to lazy at the end of the day to reset my sigma speed and subtract additional riding.

Anyway, the road construction started just south of Arlee and continued for about 20 km up a continuous grade. Much of the construction consisted of gravel detours. Deby's Surly was right at home with this, but my Nishiki with the 27" skinny tires fell a little short. Never the less the old bird carried me through (the bike I mean).

The grade, a headwind, and the construction was tough, but we forgot it all with the long smooth descent into Missoula.

We spent the rest of the day running errands in the city and got a second specialized Armadillo tire put on Deby's bike at Big Sky Cycle.

Tomorrow before we set out we are going to an all you can eat pancake breakfast...$2.50. Oh America the beautiful.

Temperature today was about 100 degrees.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Bears, Cougars and Rattlesnakes

August 19th - Arlee, Montana
Mileage: 136.56 km
Total mileage: 551 km
Ride time: 6:24

We are camped in a nice campground between Ravalli and Arlee. Rode most of the day through a massive Indian Reservation. Beautiful ride, but nothing for services.

We encountered no towns where towns appeared on the map, and other towns with nothing for service but a bar. Not much more than that is needed really, but it makes cycling tough. Had to ration water like a cowboy must have had to do....long stretches.

Stopped at the only store that existed in Perma. Actually nothing else existed at all. The store was run by an old fella and was about the size of a master bedroom. Freezers and scrap wood piles adorned the front parking area. Purchased some Gator Aid. I hope Gator Aid doesn't have an expiry date. Must have been two of the 1st bottles ever produced.

Anyway, we talked with the old fella and a lady who was visiting him. Turns out he had once walked across the United States and that she had been born in Hollywood and moved to a quiet and peaceful place north of Perma called Hot Springs. Never know who you'll meet in these out of the way places, or the interesting stories they have to tell.

Continued on through Dixon. A one bar town. Stopped in and had a Coke. The little bar stunk worse than us, but we had an interesting time talking to the lady bar tender. She was one of 14 kids from a small town to the north. Don't think that she has ever been much further than Dixon her entire life. Just a week ago her first grandchild was born. It (it was a boy) was her mother's 151st grand or great grandchild.

Long day. Deby had another flat tire just west of Ravalli. Temperature was probably 100 degrees. Patched the tire and thought we were on our way again. But, the bead broke and the tube blew before the bike was even out of the ditch. Had to do it all over again...then we were on our way. We will get rid of this remaining WTB Slickasauras when we reach Missoula and replace it with another Specialized Armadillo. If you have a bike with WTB Slickasauras tires leave it in the garage and don't ever take it out! Those tires pick up everything on the road.

We hoped to camp at Ravalli but just as this area lacks services it lacks campgrounds as well. At Ravali one of the locals told us not to camp in the area because rattlesnakes were everywhere. Wasn't hard to believe since we had cycled past three or four dead snakes of some sort on the road. Not to be deterred by a snake I talked with another local. The second guy told us that the bears come down every night to eat the apples off the trees and that a cougar ripped up his dog while in his yard just the other night. He scared the cougar off with a shot gun and said that after dark the place becomes the 'Wild Kingdom'. We cycled on.

It was my turn for a flat tire before the day was over. Thankfully we were close to a campground so could pump it up a couple of times and keep rolling till we got there.

Campfire in Montana

August 18th - Thompson Falls, Montana
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 415 km
Ride time: 4:45

Continued through the valley alongside the river. Very scenic with pine trees, fir and cedars lining the highway. Again, gentle rolling grades with some long straight stretches nearing Thompson Falls.

We are staying in the State Park just outside of town. River front property with a view. Had a swim in the river, a good meal and are now sitting around a campfire. We have the place to ourselves.

Deby is worried about her stiffness. I told her to 'buck up' it would go away. She's doing very well.

Did a lot of talking with people in the towns that we stopped at. No shortage of good people that want to converse with us.

Temperature was warmer today, probably 80 to 90 degrees. Traffic was light. I think everyone in this state takes an Interstate.

Wild Turkey's

August 17th - Clark Forks, Idaho
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 307 km
Ride time: 4:42

Brisk wake up this morning. Newport was cool and fogged in. The temperature warmed quickly though. Daytime high was 76 degrees.

The ride today was very pleasant. Slight grades with flat stretches. Deby and I have developed a good working strategy. I ride for 10 km and then wait for 3-5 minutes for her to show up. It helps us both ride comfortably.

Replaced Deby's gashed tire in Sandpoint, Idaho with a Specialized Armadillo, Kevlar lined. We'll beat those beer bottle smashers yet.

Oh ya, wild turkeys at the campground this morning and more of them along the ride. They seem very people friendly until you get a camera out....then they run like hell.

Hwy 200 is a beautiful ride. A mountainous valley following large lakes all the while.

Camped at a beautiful campground called Johnson Creek tonight. State maintained and tucked away and little known. We learned of it from one of the locals. The local was a firefighter who later came by to make sure that we had found the place.

Big Climb

August 16th - Newport, Washington
Mileage - 97.16 Km
Total mileage - 205 Km
Ride time: 5:07 hours

Staying at the K&M Campground in Newport. Absolutely beautiful. Deby treated herself to a soak in the hot tub.

Cycled south to Chewelah, Wa and then east to Newport. From Chewelah to Usk is a road called the Flowery Trail. Huge long climb to the Chewelah summit at 4046 ft. I don't know what the elevation was from the valley floor, but it was way down there. Very pretty ride, but extreme.

Deby rode hard and did well. I was proud of the old girl. At half a century old I know that she did more today than 90% of girls half her age could have done. (Deby's comments are in brackets.... ahhh isn't he cute!!)

Stopped to wait for Deby at one point. Heard a rustling in the ditch and looked over to see a cow moose approximately 20' from me. Her beautiful brown eyes met my beautiful brown eyes and we shared a moment. Not unlike those credit card commercials. Then old blue eyes rode up and the moment was gone.

The reward for the long climb was the decent. Lots and lots of free kilometers. I reached 63 km/hr at a couple of points. Far to fast to travel on a loaded bike, but I couldn't help myself. The problems that can happen with a loaded bike range from speed wobbles to equipment failure, such as bags, snaps, bungees, carriers etc. etc. Oh well....

Deby's 1st day

August 15th - Arden, Washington
Mileage - 108.51 km
Ride time: 4:56 hour/min

Camped beside the Coville River on Ardene Hill Road. I hope it is State land, but not sure. We were mislead in Colville by a resident who was trying to be helpful, that there was a campground 3/4 mile south of town. No such luck. Upon peddling to Arden a nice lady told us where we could get away with setting up a tent.

Two flat tires on Deby's bike. One at Orient and the second at Colville. Beer bottle glass on both occasions. Additionally I had to use a tire boot for old damage that turned into a gash. Walmart in Colville did not have a tube, or tire for Deby's bike, so I patched the tube and we continued to run with the boot. All said, repairs took a lot of time out of our day. We ended up camping at near dark.

Deby was trying to help with camp, but she was walking around like a diabetic in shock. She couldn't figure out the tent and ended up wrapping a bungee tightly into the rear cog of my bike trying to be helpful. I sat her down and took over. She recovered.

The temperature was beautiful throughout, probably 70 to 80 degrees (you'll have to convert to Celsius). Beautiful scenery mostly through pines following the Kettle River to the north end of Roosevelt Lake. The country opened up into a mountainous valley with farmland to the south of Colville.

Light traffic with consistent rolling hills and moderate grades.

Friday, August 14, 2009

Loaded in Grand Forks

All packed and ready to go tomorrow morning. I'm excited to get rolling, Deby is nervous, about what I'm not sure.

I hate packing. I wish I could just hire someone to do it. To many decisions about what to take etc. etc. I'll feel better once we are finally riding; it's been a long wait.

We are planning to ride to Colville, Washington tomorrow. Deby is is comfortable with a shorter 1st day. I'm thinking we will get farther. I know my Polish Princess is much more capable than she thinks she is. In fact, its a bit early to say, but I'll bet that when we finish this trip she'll decide she wants to hike the Appalachian Trail with me in 2011.

Bedtime, have to load and ride early.