September 28/09 - Port Aransas, Texas
IB Magee Campground
Mileage: 33 km
Total mileage: 4,079 km
We are camped tonight in a beautiful campground in Port Aransas, nice little town. We are camped behind some large dunes and on grass.
We learned last night that beach camping sucks and it is far less romantic than it may seem. Woke up this morning with sand in the tent, sand in our sleeping bags, sand in our packs and sand in our dishes. Put on our sandy clothes and cycled north, spitting out sand all the while. Stopped for a bite to eat just before Port Aransas and as I ate my prepackaged deep fried apple pie I was still crunching down on sand. Tonight we were smarter due to experience, and I hope and pray that those poor tenters on the beach won't be blown away or become dunes themselves.
It was a short ride today. Port Aransas is to pretty a spot to cycle through without stopping. We toured the town on our bikes and went to the marina to look at the boats.
At the marina we met Joe and his brother Mark. We talked with them for a long, long time. Mostly Joe did the talking, Mark knowing better than to try and get a word in edgewise.
Joe told us that he didn't like cycling because when he was 6 years old Mark ambushed him and shot him off his bicycle with a pellet gun. Joe said he was riding from their mailbox back to the house when Mark and another brother jumped out from behind the water trough and 'Bam', shot him in the gut. Joe had a lot more stories, most of which I can't even remember. Information overload, but amusing and entertaining.
Joe and his wife live on their boat in a slip in the marina. They have lived in the boat for the past 13 years. $165/month. Now, the 40 foot semi-ocean going houseboat was nothing like you would see in a yachting magazine, but they appeared very comfortable and Joe obviously loved his life. It's interesting to see how different people live in so many different ways.
We enjoyed the dolphins putting on a show for us today in the inter coastal waterway. We swam in the Gulf and walked the beach for a long time. Ah, life is good!!
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Finally, the Gulf
September 27/09 - Mustang Island State Park, Texas
Mileage: 107.2 km
Total mileage: 4,046 km
Camped tonight on the beach on the Gulf of Mexico. Warm, humid breeze and we have the entire beach to ourselves. Just had a swim...water is 83 degrees.
Cycling east from Alice, we got our first blast of salt air about 13 miles west of Corpus Christi which is on the coast. If you are ever on Hwy 44 closing in on Corpus take a whiff of the air as you're passing Rosters Welding cause that's where you'll smell it. We peddled on with anticipation. The anticipation built as we peddled through Corpus Christi...that took a long time.
Reaching the Gulf of Mexico was another pivotal moment. When you see the ocean a few things cross your mind. First - achievement - I peddled this bicycle all the way here from Grand Forks British Columbia, wow! Second - this bicycle is a marvelous piece of engineering. Weighing approximately 25 lbs it carried me, and my load without whining, for the past 4,046 kms. Third - God gave us a beautiful planet, but its not a big planet. Maybe, just maybe, we should take a lot better care of it.
Cycling eastbound yesterday, the terrain started to change just after San Diego. Texas quite abruptly flattened right out. Flat like a pool table. Today continued much the same.
Flat land cycling is the hardest. You can give me mountainous, or even hilly cycling anytime. Flat land cycling offers no gliding or free miles, and you use the same muscle groups all day long...ouch. To boot, it usually involves wind and Murphy's law applies to cycling. It's always in your face!
Today was no exception to that law as the winds here blow from the Gulf. We peddled into it, Deby drafting me. I guess I got the short end of the stick having to break the wind. I get back at her though, by breaking wind in the tent as well.
Big huge tracts of farmland here as well. Most of it is summer fallow now, so we couldn't tell what they grow. Did see some corn and cotton though. Big, big farming.
The humidity has been a bit of a blow. The temperatures haven't changed, but it seems hotter. Have to get used to cycling soaked, going to bed wet, and waking up wet. Today, by the end of the day we were already getting more comfortable with it. It will be like this all the way around the Gulf now.
Mileage: 107.2 km
Total mileage: 4,046 km
Camped tonight on the beach on the Gulf of Mexico. Warm, humid breeze and we have the entire beach to ourselves. Just had a swim...water is 83 degrees.
Cycling east from Alice, we got our first blast of salt air about 13 miles west of Corpus Christi which is on the coast. If you are ever on Hwy 44 closing in on Corpus take a whiff of the air as you're passing Rosters Welding cause that's where you'll smell it. We peddled on with anticipation. The anticipation built as we peddled through Corpus Christi...that took a long time.
Reaching the Gulf of Mexico was another pivotal moment. When you see the ocean a few things cross your mind. First - achievement - I peddled this bicycle all the way here from Grand Forks British Columbia, wow! Second - this bicycle is a marvelous piece of engineering. Weighing approximately 25 lbs it carried me, and my load without whining, for the past 4,046 kms. Third - God gave us a beautiful planet, but its not a big planet. Maybe, just maybe, we should take a lot better care of it.
Cycling eastbound yesterday, the terrain started to change just after San Diego. Texas quite abruptly flattened right out. Flat like a pool table. Today continued much the same.
Flat land cycling is the hardest. You can give me mountainous, or even hilly cycling anytime. Flat land cycling offers no gliding or free miles, and you use the same muscle groups all day long...ouch. To boot, it usually involves wind and Murphy's law applies to cycling. It's always in your face!
Today was no exception to that law as the winds here blow from the Gulf. We peddled into it, Deby drafting me. I guess I got the short end of the stick having to break the wind. I get back at her though, by breaking wind in the tent as well.
Big huge tracts of farmland here as well. Most of it is summer fallow now, so we couldn't tell what they grow. Did see some corn and cotton though. Big, big farming.
The humidity has been a bit of a blow. The temperatures haven't changed, but it seems hotter. Have to get used to cycling soaked, going to bed wet, and waking up wet. Today, by the end of the day we were already getting more comfortable with it. It will be like this all the way around the Gulf now.
Rabid Beast
September 26/09 - Alice, Texas
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 132 km
Total mileage: 3,939 km
Left Encinal this morning on quiet Hwy 44 eastbound. It was warm when we started and the temperature continued to climb. I estimate the daily high was about 100 degrees.
We noticed at Encinal that it was more humid now. Probably as a result of its proximity to the Gulf of Mexico. The humidity increased as we rode through Freer, and San Diego and ended our day in Alice.
The terrain was the same, only more grassy now among the trees and cactus. Getting a little tired of the Texas chip coat. The roads are clean of debris and well kept, but the chip coat is rough. Hard on the bikes and the riders.
Attempted to move a tortoise out of the driving lane. I have a soft spot for tortoises. I lifted him approximately 2" off the pavement when he abruptly stuck his head and legs out. This altered my grip a bit and I dropped him. The small monster turned on a dime and came at me mouth open and hissing. Pretty good initial sprint too. Thinking that I had imagined what had happened, I attempted to pick him up again. Same thing, hopping like a rock, he charged. I rode on and from about 50 meters I looked back. The rabid beast had made it to the shoulder. That pleased me, but I think I would have been just as satisfied had I looked back and seen a semi barreling down on him.
Changed a tire on my bike in San Diego. My Michelin World Tour developed a large bulge. I am now running on two Walmart Bell tires and have lots of patches. I have come full circle.
We were intending to overnight in San Diego. San Diego however, as it turns out, doesn't have a campground, hotel or motel. We cycled on to Alice and got a hotel. Four days without a shower, Princess was getting pretty rank! (Princess, had washed her hair and sponge bathed in the restroom at the truck stop cause I couldn't stand myself anymore. Kim on the other hand, was very RIPE! The hotel was very welcome).
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 132 km
Total mileage: 3,939 km
Left Encinal this morning on quiet Hwy 44 eastbound. It was warm when we started and the temperature continued to climb. I estimate the daily high was about 100 degrees.
We noticed at Encinal that it was more humid now. Probably as a result of its proximity to the Gulf of Mexico. The humidity increased as we rode through Freer, and San Diego and ended our day in Alice.
The terrain was the same, only more grassy now among the trees and cactus. Getting a little tired of the Texas chip coat. The roads are clean of debris and well kept, but the chip coat is rough. Hard on the bikes and the riders.
Attempted to move a tortoise out of the driving lane. I have a soft spot for tortoises. I lifted him approximately 2" off the pavement when he abruptly stuck his head and legs out. This altered my grip a bit and I dropped him. The small monster turned on a dime and came at me mouth open and hissing. Pretty good initial sprint too. Thinking that I had imagined what had happened, I attempted to pick him up again. Same thing, hopping like a rock, he charged. I rode on and from about 50 meters I looked back. The rabid beast had made it to the shoulder. That pleased me, but I think I would have been just as satisfied had I looked back and seen a semi barreling down on him.
Changed a tire on my bike in San Diego. My Michelin World Tour developed a large bulge. I am now running on two Walmart Bell tires and have lots of patches. I have come full circle.
We were intending to overnight in San Diego. San Diego however, as it turns out, doesn't have a campground, hotel or motel. We cycled on to Alice and got a hotel. Four days without a shower, Princess was getting pretty rank! (Princess, had washed her hair and sponge bathed in the restroom at the truck stop cause I couldn't stand myself anymore. Kim on the other hand, was very RIPE! The hotel was very welcome).
The Punisher
September 25/09 - Encinal, Texas
Loves Truck Stop
Mileage: 156.8 km (98 miles)
Total mileage: 3,807 km
Camped tonight at Loves Truck Stop. Camped on a little tiny patch of grass that the manager permitted us to use. Strange birds chattering away in the hibiscus tress and the noise of 50 + tractor trailer units make for an interesting combination of sounds.
Cycled 156.8 km today. That's 98 miles. When Deby had the choice of camping in the desert or semi-civilization, she really put out (Funny what the fear of snakes and illegals will help you accomplish). Not to many choices in southwest Texas. Rather desolate and unpopulated country.
It was dusk and threatening darkness for the last 20 kms of our day. Deby cycled strong all day, but really punished the road over that last stretch. I think she's been holding back on me. I can honestly say that I could name 100 guys that couldn't have cycled that stretch that fast, especially after cycling 136 km already. After this kick, I renamed her bike. No longer is it V-Dub, now and forever after, it will be known as the 'Punisher.' (Appropriate since it punishes him on my slow days, and also works when fear makes me go faster).
This morning before leaving Eagle Pass we met a fella by the name of Alphonse. Alphonse was from Louisiana, but relocating in Eagle Pass. Alphonse said that he was renovating an old place and pointed in the direction of his new property. We had come into Eagle Pass from that direction so I knew the place he was working on probably didn't amount to much.
Anyway, we conversed for quite some time. Alphonse seemed to be a cross between Malcolm X and Preston Manning...strange eh! Alphonse gave us a long lesson on injustice and the problems with the United States. He also told us of the cycle of welfare etc. etc.
Alphonse was very interested in our trip and actually very worldly in his knowledge. He wished us the best and as we were preparing to leave he reached into his wallet and said, "Let me give you something for the road." I chose to leave this to Deby and I walked a short distance away to throw some trash in the garbage, smiling all the while. I looked back and Alphonse was forcing a 20 dollar bill on Deby. Deby was politely trying to decline the offer, but Alphonse kept getting louder, and louder in a Louisiana kind of way. Finally, Deby accepted the bill not wanting to insult him. Alphonse then bid us farewell and drove away in his rusty old 80's something Cutlass.
Alphonse is proof that less can be more. I think that we have to be careful not to loose the kind of attitude that he has. Alphonse is in touch with the finer things in life, that being relationships and generosity. He has it all together.
Down the road 70 kms, in Carrizo Springs, we gave Alphonse's $20 to a fella that was collecting money for his church that runs drug rehab homes around the world. The $20 that Alphonse so unselfishly gave us will go on working. Thank-you Alphonse.
Good cycling today. Highs were in the 90's which we are quite used to at this point. Gentle grades made it easy, although this Texas chip coat is rough and slows the bike somewhat.
Leaving Eagle Pass we cycled through desert of course, but it did vary as the moisture varied in the different areas. This is the land of showers and not all areas of the desert by any means get the same amount of precipitation.
From Carrizo Springs and eastward through Asherton, Catarina, and finally Encinal the desert became increasingly greener. The trees got bigger and instead of dirt, or struggling grass between them, we began to see lush high grass. So much so, that I began to wonder why they don't cut the ditches for hay. Then it dawned on me that they don't need hay in this country because they pasture their cattle all year. At the truck stop I asked one of the employees if this area was still considered desert. He stated it wasn't desert any longer.
Deby is getting hardier. Neither of us have had a shower in 3 days now. This is not some sort of strange strike or anything, southwest Texas is just hard country for a cyclist. We have taken to using a lilac scented sunscreen. Our aroma is rather special, sort of bitter/sweet, like a lilac bush growing beside a dumpster.
We saw half a dozen javelinas in the ditch today. A sort of wild pig. I thought they were supposed to be small, but these were a good size.
That's all folks. Have to go check the tent. The maintenance man here figures we put it on top of a fire ant hill.
Loves Truck Stop
Mileage: 156.8 km (98 miles)
Total mileage: 3,807 km
Camped tonight at Loves Truck Stop. Camped on a little tiny patch of grass that the manager permitted us to use. Strange birds chattering away in the hibiscus tress and the noise of 50 + tractor trailer units make for an interesting combination of sounds.
Cycled 156.8 km today. That's 98 miles. When Deby had the choice of camping in the desert or semi-civilization, she really put out (Funny what the fear of snakes and illegals will help you accomplish). Not to many choices in southwest Texas. Rather desolate and unpopulated country.
It was dusk and threatening darkness for the last 20 kms of our day. Deby cycled strong all day, but really punished the road over that last stretch. I think she's been holding back on me. I can honestly say that I could name 100 guys that couldn't have cycled that stretch that fast, especially after cycling 136 km already. After this kick, I renamed her bike. No longer is it V-Dub, now and forever after, it will be known as the 'Punisher.' (Appropriate since it punishes him on my slow days, and also works when fear makes me go faster).
This morning before leaving Eagle Pass we met a fella by the name of Alphonse. Alphonse was from Louisiana, but relocating in Eagle Pass. Alphonse said that he was renovating an old place and pointed in the direction of his new property. We had come into Eagle Pass from that direction so I knew the place he was working on probably didn't amount to much.
Anyway, we conversed for quite some time. Alphonse seemed to be a cross between Malcolm X and Preston Manning...strange eh! Alphonse gave us a long lesson on injustice and the problems with the United States. He also told us of the cycle of welfare etc. etc.
Alphonse was very interested in our trip and actually very worldly in his knowledge. He wished us the best and as we were preparing to leave he reached into his wallet and said, "Let me give you something for the road." I chose to leave this to Deby and I walked a short distance away to throw some trash in the garbage, smiling all the while. I looked back and Alphonse was forcing a 20 dollar bill on Deby. Deby was politely trying to decline the offer, but Alphonse kept getting louder, and louder in a Louisiana kind of way. Finally, Deby accepted the bill not wanting to insult him. Alphonse then bid us farewell and drove away in his rusty old 80's something Cutlass.
Alphonse is proof that less can be more. I think that we have to be careful not to loose the kind of attitude that he has. Alphonse is in touch with the finer things in life, that being relationships and generosity. He has it all together.
Down the road 70 kms, in Carrizo Springs, we gave Alphonse's $20 to a fella that was collecting money for his church that runs drug rehab homes around the world. The $20 that Alphonse so unselfishly gave us will go on working. Thank-you Alphonse.
Good cycling today. Highs were in the 90's which we are quite used to at this point. Gentle grades made it easy, although this Texas chip coat is rough and slows the bike somewhat.
Leaving Eagle Pass we cycled through desert of course, but it did vary as the moisture varied in the different areas. This is the land of showers and not all areas of the desert by any means get the same amount of precipitation.
From Carrizo Springs and eastward through Asherton, Catarina, and finally Encinal the desert became increasingly greener. The trees got bigger and instead of dirt, or struggling grass between them, we began to see lush high grass. So much so, that I began to wonder why they don't cut the ditches for hay. Then it dawned on me that they don't need hay in this country because they pasture their cattle all year. At the truck stop I asked one of the employees if this area was still considered desert. He stated it wasn't desert any longer.
Deby is getting hardier. Neither of us have had a shower in 3 days now. This is not some sort of strange strike or anything, southwest Texas is just hard country for a cyclist. We have taken to using a lilac scented sunscreen. Our aroma is rather special, sort of bitter/sweet, like a lilac bush growing beside a dumpster.
We saw half a dozen javelinas in the ditch today. A sort of wild pig. I thought they were supposed to be small, but these were a good size.
That's all folks. Have to go check the tent. The maintenance man here figures we put it on top of a fire ant hill.
The Oasis
September 24/09 - Eagle Pass, Texas
Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,651 km
We are camped this evening at the rear of the Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant. It looked like a nice place so we asked the owner, Hugo if we could stay. Hugo said yes, and wouldn't take any money which I had offered him. Hugo, went even further and offered us the use of an older mobile home out back, but we politely declined.
Deby and I have been sleeping in our tent for so long now that we are used to the cool breezes and the lullaby of the crickets. We knew the mobile home would make for a restless sleep as have the odd nights that we have spent in hotels.
Just before dark, three Border Patrol Officers swooped by our tent and dived into the shallow valley that we overlook. Two of them were on quads and the third followed in a 4X4. As Bart Simpson would say, "Cooool!" I watched them for a while. The two on quads would periodically get off and look for tracks and then continue on. I don't think they had any call to this location. They just seemed to be making a rapid and hasty patrol in the hopes of surprising illegals or mules.
Leaving Del Rio this morning we talked with 76 year old Roger. Roger was very impressed with our trip and wanted every detail. I was very impressed with Roger. Roger runs 5 km distance 3-4 times a week and competes in 5 km races finishing at the top of his class. Way to go Roger.
Roger is also a pilot and flies a wealthy rancher to and from Mexico regularly. I asked him if Customs and Border Patrol were all over him for those flights to which he replied, "Yup!"
South from Del Rio on Hwy 277 we started to encounter desert trees which we had not seen for a while. Also, since Amistad Lake we were now seeing a beautiful flowering pink bush throughout the desert. The bush was very plentiful and from different vistas you could see it all across the desert.
We dropped into a valley which included the town of Quemado. The valley, which is more like a basin, is an oasis. Beautiful crops and grass pastures. Huge trees, and trees and brush that are overgrown in the lushness.
One has to wonder how a place like this exists here. There is irrigation, but more than that I think you could put a spade in the ground and hit the water table.
The Town of Quemado is quaint. Very Spanish in residents and architecture. It could be 'any town in Mexico'.
Leaving Quemado the country became a little dryer, but not like the country further to the west. Toward Eagle Pass was still much greener.
We rode through about 2 miles of road construction just before Quemado. There was no road left, just mud. Deby's new mudders ate it up. My tires left a little to be desired. The mud was slow going. The mud in Texas is sticky, like riding on a giant fly strip. By the time we were through the construction we looked as though we were riding adobe bikes.
Pulling into Eagle Pass, 3,651 km without incident, my Polish Princess hit a garbage can. (I didn't drive into it, I just miscalculated how far my bags stuck out on the side and caught the garbage can with the bag. The garbage can won, and down the bike and I went). The bike was fine, and oh ya, so was Deby.
We had a good cycling day. Overcast sky's and mild temperatures. Some real pavement for a change, not just chip coat. Real pavement is much faster and more comfortable to ride. In fact it was such an easy day that we both figured a person could get fat doing this.
Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,651 km
We are camped this evening at the rear of the Wagon Wheel Bar/Restaurant. It looked like a nice place so we asked the owner, Hugo if we could stay. Hugo said yes, and wouldn't take any money which I had offered him. Hugo, went even further and offered us the use of an older mobile home out back, but we politely declined.
Deby and I have been sleeping in our tent for so long now that we are used to the cool breezes and the lullaby of the crickets. We knew the mobile home would make for a restless sleep as have the odd nights that we have spent in hotels.
Just before dark, three Border Patrol Officers swooped by our tent and dived into the shallow valley that we overlook. Two of them were on quads and the third followed in a 4X4. As Bart Simpson would say, "Cooool!" I watched them for a while. The two on quads would periodically get off and look for tracks and then continue on. I don't think they had any call to this location. They just seemed to be making a rapid and hasty patrol in the hopes of surprising illegals or mules.
Leaving Del Rio this morning we talked with 76 year old Roger. Roger was very impressed with our trip and wanted every detail. I was very impressed with Roger. Roger runs 5 km distance 3-4 times a week and competes in 5 km races finishing at the top of his class. Way to go Roger.
Roger is also a pilot and flies a wealthy rancher to and from Mexico regularly. I asked him if Customs and Border Patrol were all over him for those flights to which he replied, "Yup!"
South from Del Rio on Hwy 277 we started to encounter desert trees which we had not seen for a while. Also, since Amistad Lake we were now seeing a beautiful flowering pink bush throughout the desert. The bush was very plentiful and from different vistas you could see it all across the desert.
We dropped into a valley which included the town of Quemado. The valley, which is more like a basin, is an oasis. Beautiful crops and grass pastures. Huge trees, and trees and brush that are overgrown in the lushness.
One has to wonder how a place like this exists here. There is irrigation, but more than that I think you could put a spade in the ground and hit the water table.
The Town of Quemado is quaint. Very Spanish in residents and architecture. It could be 'any town in Mexico'.
Leaving Quemado the country became a little dryer, but not like the country further to the west. Toward Eagle Pass was still much greener.
We rode through about 2 miles of road construction just before Quemado. There was no road left, just mud. Deby's new mudders ate it up. My tires left a little to be desired. The mud was slow going. The mud in Texas is sticky, like riding on a giant fly strip. By the time we were through the construction we looked as though we were riding adobe bikes.
Pulling into Eagle Pass, 3,651 km without incident, my Polish Princess hit a garbage can. (I didn't drive into it, I just miscalculated how far my bags stuck out on the side and caught the garbage can with the bag. The garbage can won, and down the bike and I went). The bike was fine, and oh ya, so was Deby.
We had a good cycling day. Overcast sky's and mild temperatures. Some real pavement for a change, not just chip coat. Real pavement is much faster and more comfortable to ride. In fact it was such an easy day that we both figured a person could get fat doing this.
Bike Repairs
September 23/09 - Lonesome Dove Campground
Del Rio, Texas
Spent the day in Del Rio. Replaced both tires on Deby's Surly. Both her Specialized Nimbus Armadillos had severely deliminated.
Lakeside Sports, the Specialized dealer and the only bicycle shop in town didn't have any of those tires to give us, so they replaced them with Specialized Crossroads Armadillos. The Crossroads is more of a mountain bike tire, but has a centre bead for road travel. Not premium, but workable.
I guess I have to eat my shorts. I stated earlier that the Specialized Nimbus was the best thing on wheels...wrong. True, they are almost impenetrable, but the rubber falls off the tires. This is a bad thing. Never the less, Specialized has been very good to us and replaced all the tires on warranty.
I am starting to concede to what super cycle tourer Dan in Montpellier told me. He said, "Buy cheap tires and lots of patches, because there isn't a tire or gimmick out there that will work better." I'm starting to feel more comfortable with his philosophy.
Del Rio is a pretty city. We had a nice time touring around.
Del Rio, Texas
Spent the day in Del Rio. Replaced both tires on Deby's Surly. Both her Specialized Nimbus Armadillos had severely deliminated.
Lakeside Sports, the Specialized dealer and the only bicycle shop in town didn't have any of those tires to give us, so they replaced them with Specialized Crossroads Armadillos. The Crossroads is more of a mountain bike tire, but has a centre bead for road travel. Not premium, but workable.
I guess I have to eat my shorts. I stated earlier that the Specialized Nimbus was the best thing on wheels...wrong. True, they are almost impenetrable, but the rubber falls off the tires. This is a bad thing. Never the less, Specialized has been very good to us and replaced all the tires on warranty.
I am starting to concede to what super cycle tourer Dan in Montpellier told me. He said, "Buy cheap tires and lots of patches, because there isn't a tire or gimmick out there that will work better." I'm starting to feel more comfortable with his philosophy.
Del Rio is a pretty city. We had a nice time touring around.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Border Patrol
September 22/09 - Del Rio, Texas
Lonesome Dove Campground
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,551 km
The same storm that we got last night provided us with an awesome tailwind today. Temperature also dropped to 68 degrees. Perfect cycling. Almost a little chilly.
Rolled through the desert and crossed some very picturesque canyons. Crossed the Pecos River just above where it meets the Rio Grande. The Pecos River canyon is something to behold. Huge rock walls on both sides, 100 feet plus. The river itself is enormous.
Talked with a Border Patrol officer, Rubin. Rubin told me that the work here has changed somewhat over the years. Rubin said that it used to be mostly aliens, but now it was mostly drugs. He stated that a few of the "good old boys" still come over to try and find work, but most of the illegals now come over carrying drugs.
I got the impression that he and probably the other Border Patrol officers have some empathy for the aliens coming over to work. They come over, Border Patrol catches them, all part of the game, ho hard feelings. The drug smugglers, or mules as they are called, are the big problem.
Rubin said that in this area it was difficult to come across because the banks of the Rio Grande are much like the banks of the Pecos. He said that there was only a few canyons, washes, etc. joining the Rio Grande where it was possible. He stated that these areas are monitored with seismic sensors tuned to detect footsteps. When there is a hit they swoop into the area. Still, aliens/mules do manage to penetrate these barriers sometimes.
All along Hwy 90 where we travelled, there was a dirt road adjacent t the ditch. This dirt road runs for miles and miles and miles. I noticed the Border Patrol grooming the road by dragging tractor tires along it with their trucks. Rubin told me that they groom this road and check it three times a day for foot prints. If there is a foot print on it, the hunt starts. Rubin said that the illegals will try to make it north to I-10, which gives the Border Patrol officers up to five days to track them through the desert. He said that he used to be in K-9. It made my mouth water to think of tracking through the pristine, uncontaminated desert.
They have no shortage of work and there doesn't appear to be any shortage of them. Border Patrol is everywhere. We pass them constantly while they sit on approaches and watch traffic and they pass us constantly at high speeds heading to the next call.
Today we went through a road block. Border Patrol was stopping each and every vehicle and the K-9 officer was checking the vehicles which his dog.
Ruben told me that they have horse patrols, that officers are out in the desert on quads and that they have an air unit with flur night vision. Very multifaceted.
Anyway, we ended our day peddling along Amistad Lake and to the Lonesome Dove Campground just on the outskirts of Del Rio. The nice lady camp host gave us way to many cookies.
My Polish Princess was a hot shot today with the tailwind and her little tiny high gear. The vulchers never looked at her twice.
Lonesome Dove Campground
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 3,551 km
The same storm that we got last night provided us with an awesome tailwind today. Temperature also dropped to 68 degrees. Perfect cycling. Almost a little chilly.
Rolled through the desert and crossed some very picturesque canyons. Crossed the Pecos River just above where it meets the Rio Grande. The Pecos River canyon is something to behold. Huge rock walls on both sides, 100 feet plus. The river itself is enormous.
Talked with a Border Patrol officer, Rubin. Rubin told me that the work here has changed somewhat over the years. Rubin said that it used to be mostly aliens, but now it was mostly drugs. He stated that a few of the "good old boys" still come over to try and find work, but most of the illegals now come over carrying drugs.
I got the impression that he and probably the other Border Patrol officers have some empathy for the aliens coming over to work. They come over, Border Patrol catches them, all part of the game, ho hard feelings. The drug smugglers, or mules as they are called, are the big problem.
Rubin said that in this area it was difficult to come across because the banks of the Rio Grande are much like the banks of the Pecos. He said that there was only a few canyons, washes, etc. joining the Rio Grande where it was possible. He stated that these areas are monitored with seismic sensors tuned to detect footsteps. When there is a hit they swoop into the area. Still, aliens/mules do manage to penetrate these barriers sometimes.
All along Hwy 90 where we travelled, there was a dirt road adjacent t the ditch. This dirt road runs for miles and miles and miles. I noticed the Border Patrol grooming the road by dragging tractor tires along it with their trucks. Rubin told me that they groom this road and check it three times a day for foot prints. If there is a foot print on it, the hunt starts. Rubin said that the illegals will try to make it north to I-10, which gives the Border Patrol officers up to five days to track them through the desert. He said that he used to be in K-9. It made my mouth water to think of tracking through the pristine, uncontaminated desert.
They have no shortage of work and there doesn't appear to be any shortage of them. Border Patrol is everywhere. We pass them constantly while they sit on approaches and watch traffic and they pass us constantly at high speeds heading to the next call.
Today we went through a road block. Border Patrol was stopping each and every vehicle and the K-9 officer was checking the vehicles which his dog.
Ruben told me that they have horse patrols, that officers are out in the desert on quads and that they have an air unit with flur night vision. Very multifaceted.
Anyway, we ended our day peddling along Amistad Lake and to the Lonesome Dove Campground just on the outskirts of Del Rio. The nice lady camp host gave us way to many cookies.
My Polish Princess was a hot shot today with the tailwind and her little tiny high gear. The vulchers never looked at her twice.
Beggers can't be choosers
September 21/09 - Langtry, Texas
Mileage: 97.6 km
Total mileage: 3,451 km
Picked up our lunch and supper provisions before leaving Sanderson. We were warned that Dryden and Langtry had next to nothing for services. Packed lots of fluids along for this stretch.
Southern New Mexico and this part of Texas do involve some logistical planning. Towns are a long way from one another and some may not have the services you need to survive, food and water, and some may not even exist.
Travelling south east on Hwy 90 we made a quick start through beautiful Sanderson Canyon. Rolling grades, easy ups and long descents. A bit of a headwind, but Deby drafted me and we flew along. We made Dryden (40 km) in record time.
At Dryden we stopped at the store for a break. The little store is Dryden. A cold reception from the lady at the cash register who told us there were no public restrooms. She didn't even look up or apologise when she said it. How can you be the only service in the middle of the desert and not have a restroom? Twenty six years ago I cycled trough here and they didn't have a restroom! We left our deposits out back and when we left we felt much better about the place.
The day heated up as we rode and Deby began to have some difficulty with the climbs. I noticed that the vulchers that are regularly present began to leave their carrion and circle Deby. I think they thought that something moving that slowly would have to fall over any time now. Yummy...Alberta beef fed and Great Western fermented, what a morsel. She continued on though and the vulchers dropped off in pursuit of other road kills.
Stumbled into a rest stop and fixed a flat tire in the shade. That was a nice fix. Cycling in the heat is not a problem. You create your own cooling breeze. Fixing a tire in the sun in the ditch is real killer. We continued on.
During the afternoon the wind changed in our favor and we rolled into Langry. The store was closed, no campground.
Three locals, one having had too much to drink, made fun of us when I told them we were cycling to Florida. I let them talk for a while before telling them that we had come from British Columbia. Then, we were hero's and they became more diplomatic. The inebriated one, Rusty, invited us to take up a patch of grass in his yard for our tent, mumbling something about being put on earth to be good to people. We took him up on it, but not before I changed a flat on Deby's bike which she had pushed the last 1/2 km to the store.
Now, Rusty had been relegated to living in the back of an old office in a rock yard. Landscaping rocks are stored in the yard having been taken from a nearby quarry. It was not the splendor that you may be thinking a yard in a small town might be, but beggars can't be choosers.
Anyway, we set our tent up on oil soaked gravel where cars had parked for years and then went and enjoyed the company on the couch outside Rusty's back door. It all seemed reminiscent of a certain house on lets say, the 100 block of Avenue J South (Police humor). Oh, how life has changed.
Rusty's cousin, a ranch hand and a pseudo hippie who sold out in Virgina to live off the land in this desolate country was also our company. Princess and I just looked at each other and smirked as the philosophical conversations deepened. Rusty, bless his heart provided the beer.
An ugly storm was brewing in the west so Deby and I retired to cook supper and hit the hay. And the storm did come. All night we were awake watching the peak of the tent flattened out over us in the wind. I rolled to one side and Deby to the other side to try and hold it down. All the while listening to Rusty's tin roof creaking and moaning like it was going to blow off.
By morning the storm had subsided and the good old Eureka Timberline was still in one piece. Rusty was up in his rock yard giving orders and running around like he was a Mormon who never touched a drop. I guess he is very used to his liquor.
Rusty has a giant heart and the experience was fun. I hope we see him again some day, but doubt he'll remember that night.
Mileage: 97.6 km
Total mileage: 3,451 km
Picked up our lunch and supper provisions before leaving Sanderson. We were warned that Dryden and Langtry had next to nothing for services. Packed lots of fluids along for this stretch.
Southern New Mexico and this part of Texas do involve some logistical planning. Towns are a long way from one another and some may not have the services you need to survive, food and water, and some may not even exist.
Travelling south east on Hwy 90 we made a quick start through beautiful Sanderson Canyon. Rolling grades, easy ups and long descents. A bit of a headwind, but Deby drafted me and we flew along. We made Dryden (40 km) in record time.
At Dryden we stopped at the store for a break. The little store is Dryden. A cold reception from the lady at the cash register who told us there were no public restrooms. She didn't even look up or apologise when she said it. How can you be the only service in the middle of the desert and not have a restroom? Twenty six years ago I cycled trough here and they didn't have a restroom! We left our deposits out back and when we left we felt much better about the place.
The day heated up as we rode and Deby began to have some difficulty with the climbs. I noticed that the vulchers that are regularly present began to leave their carrion and circle Deby. I think they thought that something moving that slowly would have to fall over any time now. Yummy...Alberta beef fed and Great Western fermented, what a morsel. She continued on though and the vulchers dropped off in pursuit of other road kills.
Stumbled into a rest stop and fixed a flat tire in the shade. That was a nice fix. Cycling in the heat is not a problem. You create your own cooling breeze. Fixing a tire in the sun in the ditch is real killer. We continued on.
During the afternoon the wind changed in our favor and we rolled into Langry. The store was closed, no campground.
Three locals, one having had too much to drink, made fun of us when I told them we were cycling to Florida. I let them talk for a while before telling them that we had come from British Columbia. Then, we were hero's and they became more diplomatic. The inebriated one, Rusty, invited us to take up a patch of grass in his yard for our tent, mumbling something about being put on earth to be good to people. We took him up on it, but not before I changed a flat on Deby's bike which she had pushed the last 1/2 km to the store.
Now, Rusty had been relegated to living in the back of an old office in a rock yard. Landscaping rocks are stored in the yard having been taken from a nearby quarry. It was not the splendor that you may be thinking a yard in a small town might be, but beggars can't be choosers.
Anyway, we set our tent up on oil soaked gravel where cars had parked for years and then went and enjoyed the company on the couch outside Rusty's back door. It all seemed reminiscent of a certain house on lets say, the 100 block of Avenue J South (Police humor). Oh, how life has changed.
Rusty's cousin, a ranch hand and a pseudo hippie who sold out in Virgina to live off the land in this desolate country was also our company. Princess and I just looked at each other and smirked as the philosophical conversations deepened. Rusty, bless his heart provided the beer.
An ugly storm was brewing in the west so Deby and I retired to cook supper and hit the hay. And the storm did come. All night we were awake watching the peak of the tent flattened out over us in the wind. I rolled to one side and Deby to the other side to try and hold it down. All the while listening to Rusty's tin roof creaking and moaning like it was going to blow off.
By morning the storm had subsided and the good old Eureka Timberline was still in one piece. Rusty was up in his rock yard giving orders and running around like he was a Mormon who never touched a drop. I guess he is very used to his liquor.
Rusty has a giant heart and the experience was fun. I hope we see him again some day, but doubt he'll remember that night.
Two old guys
September 20/09 - Sanderson, Texas
Canyon RV Park
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 3,353 km
Leaving Fort Stockton this morning we stopped at a service station for a coffee. We talked with two old fellas for a while. Ronny is why Texans are known to tell 'tall tales'. Ronny was full of it, but in a good way. Ronny's stories were so outlandish that even he didn't expect you to believe them. He and A.E. Ivy bantered back and forth attempting to insult each other, neither one losing the battle.
When we parted, A.E. Ivy, the kind you don't want as he put it, gave Deby a handmade rosewood perfume bottle with a glass insert and gave me a birch pen and pencil set that he had made. Ronny told us not to go through Langtry. Ronny said the last guy that went that way got hung. We already knew it was Judge Roy Bean country so the joke was on him. We were off.
We travelled south on 285 and the first 50 km appeared the same as most of the country since we had entered Texas two days ago. As Ronny had said, "you can travel further in this part of Texas and see less than you can anywhere else in the United Sates."
Then the country changed. We came into some pretty serious rolling hills which lead us into 'Big Canyon'. Beautiful, a large valley with sedimentary rock walls covered in cactus, mostly prickly pear. Leaves on the prickly pear as big as canoe paddles. From 'Big Canyon' it was all downhill into Sanderson.
Sanderson is a pretty place in the bottom of Sanderson Canyon. Several other canyons come into it from different directions. As we travelled through Sanderson we happened on a plaque. The plaque was dedicated to all those who lost their lives in the flood of 1965. I couldn't imagine how a flood could have happened here since a river doesn't even run through the place. Later we learned that in 1965, 21" of rain fell in 2 hours and all the canyons funneled the water into town. Many perished, some of the bodies never recovered. A horrible disaster.
We were greeted warmly in Sanderson. We're going back there someday. Talked for a long time at the service station with Jr. Gamboa. Nice little Hispanic guy. Jr told us to look him up in Del Rio, and we will do that.
Looking for the campground, we asked an old fella where we could find it. He gave us directions and when we arrived, he was there in his truck to make sure we found the place.
Oh, I forgot. I wish we could have enjoyed 'Big Canyon' more, but we were caught in a torrential downpour. Fixing a flat tire in that torrential downpour didn't make it any better. We arrived in Sanderson drenched. (The good part was that the wind had changed direction and between the wind and the rain pounding my back, V-Dub flew into town).
The campground was really nice. The host was fantastic. He charged us $5 for the stay. At a lot of these campgrounds they appreciate the effort of a cyclist and just do you a favor.
Canyon RV Park
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 3,353 km
Leaving Fort Stockton this morning we stopped at a service station for a coffee. We talked with two old fellas for a while. Ronny is why Texans are known to tell 'tall tales'. Ronny was full of it, but in a good way. Ronny's stories were so outlandish that even he didn't expect you to believe them. He and A.E. Ivy bantered back and forth attempting to insult each other, neither one losing the battle.
When we parted, A.E. Ivy, the kind you don't want as he put it, gave Deby a handmade rosewood perfume bottle with a glass insert and gave me a birch pen and pencil set that he had made. Ronny told us not to go through Langtry. Ronny said the last guy that went that way got hung. We already knew it was Judge Roy Bean country so the joke was on him. We were off.
We travelled south on 285 and the first 50 km appeared the same as most of the country since we had entered Texas two days ago. As Ronny had said, "you can travel further in this part of Texas and see less than you can anywhere else in the United Sates."
Then the country changed. We came into some pretty serious rolling hills which lead us into 'Big Canyon'. Beautiful, a large valley with sedimentary rock walls covered in cactus, mostly prickly pear. Leaves on the prickly pear as big as canoe paddles. From 'Big Canyon' it was all downhill into Sanderson.
Sanderson is a pretty place in the bottom of Sanderson Canyon. Several other canyons come into it from different directions. As we travelled through Sanderson we happened on a plaque. The plaque was dedicated to all those who lost their lives in the flood of 1965. I couldn't imagine how a flood could have happened here since a river doesn't even run through the place. Later we learned that in 1965, 21" of rain fell in 2 hours and all the canyons funneled the water into town. Many perished, some of the bodies never recovered. A horrible disaster.
We were greeted warmly in Sanderson. We're going back there someday. Talked for a long time at the service station with Jr. Gamboa. Nice little Hispanic guy. Jr told us to look him up in Del Rio, and we will do that.
Looking for the campground, we asked an old fella where we could find it. He gave us directions and when we arrived, he was there in his truck to make sure we found the place.
Oh, I forgot. I wish we could have enjoyed 'Big Canyon' more, but we were caught in a torrential downpour. Fixing a flat tire in that torrential downpour didn't make it any better. We arrived in Sanderson drenched. (The good part was that the wind had changed direction and between the wind and the rain pounding my back, V-Dub flew into town).
The campground was really nice. The host was fantastic. He charged us $5 for the stay. At a lot of these campgrounds they appreciate the effort of a cyclist and just do you a favor.
Flat country
September 19/09 - Fort Stockton, Texas
Mileage: 86.4 km
Total mileage: 3,249 km
We are camped tonight at I-10 RV Park. The host, a real nice older lady, was so impressed with our journey that she reached inside her coupon bag and gave us a 2 for 1 breakfast coupon for IHOP. Later, she gave us 1/2 a watermelon and brought chairs to our campsite. Haven't met anyone yet that hasn't shown us a world of kindness.
Left Pecos this morning into another headwind. Light, but all the same, requiring more effort. Deby took to drafting me and we increased our speed into it as a result.
The country is similar type of desert, but the brush is lower and there are not as many desert trees or cactus.
In the middle of our day, we came upon a few sections of extensive irrigation. Here we noted beautiful alfalfa, cotton crops and a large feed lot. Probably the only farming in the middle of this desert for miles and miles. Just add water and the desert grows beautifully.
Lots and lots of oil activity here. We started seeing it the day before yesterday when we were southbound through Artesia. Oil storage tanks and pump jacks all over the place. I thought this area would be pumped out as these must be such old oilfields, but not so. The pump jacks continue to whine and bang on.
We amused ourselves today as we travelled by watching for tarantula's and centipedes on the shoulder of the road. (Had noticed dead tarantulas on the shoulder for a couple of days, but today was the first live one I've ever seen outside of a zoo). Often enough little lizards would pop out of the grass and run along side our bicycles. Man, oh man are they fast.
Mileage: 86.4 km
Total mileage: 3,249 km
We are camped tonight at I-10 RV Park. The host, a real nice older lady, was so impressed with our journey that she reached inside her coupon bag and gave us a 2 for 1 breakfast coupon for IHOP. Later, she gave us 1/2 a watermelon and brought chairs to our campsite. Haven't met anyone yet that hasn't shown us a world of kindness.
Left Pecos this morning into another headwind. Light, but all the same, requiring more effort. Deby took to drafting me and we increased our speed into it as a result.
The country is similar type of desert, but the brush is lower and there are not as many desert trees or cactus.
In the middle of our day, we came upon a few sections of extensive irrigation. Here we noted beautiful alfalfa, cotton crops and a large feed lot. Probably the only farming in the middle of this desert for miles and miles. Just add water and the desert grows beautifully.
Lots and lots of oil activity here. We started seeing it the day before yesterday when we were southbound through Artesia. Oil storage tanks and pump jacks all over the place. I thought this area would be pumped out as these must be such old oilfields, but not so. The pump jacks continue to whine and bang on.
We amused ourselves today as we travelled by watching for tarantula's and centipedes on the shoulder of the road. (Had noticed dead tarantulas on the shoulder for a couple of days, but today was the first live one I've ever seen outside of a zoo). Often enough little lizards would pop out of the grass and run along side our bicycles. Man, oh man are they fast.
Epic day
September 18/09 - Pecos, Texas
Mileage: 137.6 km
Total mileage: 3,162 km
Camped tonight in a backyard in Pecos, Texas. Rode into town in the dark and had a flat tire on Deby's bike at the city limits. Deby rode on the flat to the first service station because I was not going to fix it in a black ditch.
We fixed the tire at the station while people came and went in their cars, loud mariachi music blaring. I knew I would find some sort of hard object having pierced the tire because thorns and chip coating will not go through these Armadillo's. Sure enough it was a wire from a blown retread.
We met a very nice lady by the name of Lynell Putman in Orla. Lynell owns and runs the restaurant/bar, which is Orla, as there is nothing else there. Orla was 75 km into our day and we still had 63 km to go to Pecos. We had 2 pops each and a nice visit with Lynell and she said we could stay in her yard in Pecos. The house is vacant and she is renovating it at this time. It sure was nice to have a place to go to, especially as we arrived in Pecos late and in the dark. It looked like a nice area at night when we set up the tent, and when we awoke in the morning, it appeared like beautiful Riversdale.
Leaving Carlsbad this morning we again rode through beautiful pecan orchards towards Loving and Malaga, New Mexico. After Malaga the country changed to the desert we have become accustomed to and continued on that way through Orla and to Pecos. Gentle rolling grades and a bit of a headwind provided for a bit of a struggle. The Guadalupe Mountains were visible to our west, but as we travelled they disappeared off into the southwest.
Just before reaching Orla we stopped for a peanut butter and hone sandwich. When we were ready to carry on I realized my front tire was flat. I had a suspicion days ago, when I got my last flat, that the Flat Attack had decomposed the contact cement on a patch on the tube. It was confirmed on this date. The Flat Attack had removed most of the a patch on the tube. In hind sight, this makes sense because rubber cement is water soluble and both Slime and Flat Attack are water based products. Don't ever put Slime or Flat Attack in a patched tube. I've learned that these products may work on ATV or wheelbarrow tires, but they don't work in a high pressure bicycle tire. Thank goodness the experiment is over!
Mileage: 137.6 km
Total mileage: 3,162 km
Camped tonight in a backyard in Pecos, Texas. Rode into town in the dark and had a flat tire on Deby's bike at the city limits. Deby rode on the flat to the first service station because I was not going to fix it in a black ditch.
We fixed the tire at the station while people came and went in their cars, loud mariachi music blaring. I knew I would find some sort of hard object having pierced the tire because thorns and chip coating will not go through these Armadillo's. Sure enough it was a wire from a blown retread.
We met a very nice lady by the name of Lynell Putman in Orla. Lynell owns and runs the restaurant/bar, which is Orla, as there is nothing else there. Orla was 75 km into our day and we still had 63 km to go to Pecos. We had 2 pops each and a nice visit with Lynell and she said we could stay in her yard in Pecos. The house is vacant and she is renovating it at this time. It sure was nice to have a place to go to, especially as we arrived in Pecos late and in the dark. It looked like a nice area at night when we set up the tent, and when we awoke in the morning, it appeared like beautiful Riversdale.
Leaving Carlsbad this morning we again rode through beautiful pecan orchards towards Loving and Malaga, New Mexico. After Malaga the country changed to the desert we have become accustomed to and continued on that way through Orla and to Pecos. Gentle rolling grades and a bit of a headwind provided for a bit of a struggle. The Guadalupe Mountains were visible to our west, but as we travelled they disappeared off into the southwest.
Just before reaching Orla we stopped for a peanut butter and hone sandwich. When we were ready to carry on I realized my front tire was flat. I had a suspicion days ago, when I got my last flat, that the Flat Attack had decomposed the contact cement on a patch on the tube. It was confirmed on this date. The Flat Attack had removed most of the a patch on the tube. In hind sight, this makes sense because rubber cement is water soluble and both Slime and Flat Attack are water based products. Don't ever put Slime or Flat Attack in a patched tube. I've learned that these products may work on ATV or wheelbarrow tires, but they don't work in a high pressure bicycle tire. Thank goodness the experiment is over!
Bats, bats and more bats
September 17/09 - Carlsbad, New Mexico
Took the day off today. Rented a car and took a side trip to Carlsbad Caverns. The caverns are located in the Guadalupe Mountains in Carlsbad National Park.
Incredible country, such a short distance away and so different a place. The Guadalupe Mountains are a desert range. Flora ranges from grasses to several varieties of cactus to low lying brush. Took several short walks, surprisingly green and lush for such a hot dry climate. The hardy plants and trees are the epitome of adaption.
Took a self tour into the Cavern. About a 1 1/2 hour walk, 75 stories downward - magnificent. Then took a guided tour through the King's palace, the Queen's chamber, and the Papoose room. All well worth it and a must see.
At 6:50 pm we sat in the amphitheatre at the entrance to the cavern to watch the bat flight. We watched between 300 and 500 thousand bats leave the cavern for their nightly feed - awe inspiring. Apparently they will be back for their daily snooze at about 5:00 am. We watched the bat flight for about 40 minutes until it became to dark to see the bats. They were still exiting when we left.
I came up with a name for my old Nishiki - Calypso. 'Aye, Calypso, the places you've been to, the things that you've shown us the stories you tell'. God bless John Denver and Jacques Cousteau. Deby came up with a name for her bike - V-Dub. (Kim was the one that came up with this when an old 80's VW van was pulling in to camp next to us in Sante Fe. He had to take a run at the small incline to the camp spot and Kim said "that van is like you. Does good downhill and with the wind, but struggles uphill and in a headwind." No denying that, so V-Dub my bike became.)
Tomorrow we ride.
Took the day off today. Rented a car and took a side trip to Carlsbad Caverns. The caverns are located in the Guadalupe Mountains in Carlsbad National Park.
Incredible country, such a short distance away and so different a place. The Guadalupe Mountains are a desert range. Flora ranges from grasses to several varieties of cactus to low lying brush. Took several short walks, surprisingly green and lush for such a hot dry climate. The hardy plants and trees are the epitome of adaption.
Took a self tour into the Cavern. About a 1 1/2 hour walk, 75 stories downward - magnificent. Then took a guided tour through the King's palace, the Queen's chamber, and the Papoose room. All well worth it and a must see.
At 6:50 pm we sat in the amphitheatre at the entrance to the cavern to watch the bat flight. We watched between 300 and 500 thousand bats leave the cavern for their nightly feed - awe inspiring. Apparently they will be back for their daily snooze at about 5:00 am. We watched the bat flight for about 40 minutes until it became to dark to see the bats. They were still exiting when we left.
I came up with a name for my old Nishiki - Calypso. 'Aye, Calypso, the places you've been to, the things that you've shown us the stories you tell'. God bless John Denver and Jacques Cousteau. Deby came up with a name for her bike - V-Dub. (Kim was the one that came up with this when an old 80's VW van was pulling in to camp next to us in Sante Fe. He had to take a run at the small incline to the camp spot and Kim said "that van is like you. Does good downhill and with the wind, but struggles uphill and in a headwind." No denying that, so V-Dub my bike became.)
Tomorrow we ride.
Pecans and Tequila
September 16/09 - Carlsbad, New Mexico
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 116.8 km
Total mileage: 3,025 km
Carlsbad is a very pretty city. The people have been very friendly as well.
Upon arriving in town two guys, very much products of the 60's, insisted on helping us find a place to camp. The one began by giving us directions and then the other butted in saying that he didn't know his directions. The 1st guy quieted down and seemed to accept this because he knew the 2nd guy was right. The 2nd guy gave us directions to a city park. I asked him if there was water there. The 1st guy blurted out something about water flowing from a pipe. The 2nd guy stated, "Ya, but that's not drinkable," to which the 1st guy replied, "I've been drinking it for years and look at me!" The 2nd guy and I looked at each other and smiled without saying anything.
The 1st guy had obviously been travelling as he had a couple of packs. I asked him if he had been travelling to which he didn't respond. The 2nd guy stated that he hitch hikes up to Artisia or Roswell, but somewhere along the line ends up on the wrong side of the road and eventually turns up back in Carlsbad. They went off on their way. Several other people talked with us, none having a previous history of drug abuse, and much more helpful.
Just south of Roswell beautiful corn crops lined both sides of the road and then huge orchards of pecan trees. The pecan orchards are something else. Acres and acres of huge trees, regular forests, quite impressive.
Further south, without irrigation the country turned into burnt grass pasture. We probably should have taken Hwy 2 which we parallelled. Hwy 2 to the east of us is closer to the Pecos River where the irrigation is. I could see more pecan orchards in that direction as well as dairy farm silos. That being said, hwy 285 south was a quiet road with good pavement.
Southbound from Artesia the pecan orchards started up again. In this area we also saw cotton crops. Continuing southbound we left the irrigated areas and returned to the desert which we have become fairly accustomed to.
Going through Artesia and before we knew what the orchards were, Deby asked some guys what the trees were. They asked her where she was from, it being unusual that someone didn't know about the trees. Deby told them British Columbia and on our way to Florida. One of the guys looked at her bike and said, "Holy shit, and you're not young either!" (I was thinking "You're telling me!" We all laughed). He told her the trees were pecans and said to drink plenty of tequila before leaving New Mexico.
Nearing Carlsbad the terrain became hilly again. This surprised me. I thought it would be flat from here on in.
An individual stopped us on the road. He was driving his vehicle and offered us water, pop, fruit cups, energy bars, etc. etc. Actually, he did more than offer, he sort of demanded we take something. I took a couple of fruit cups to appease him. So many travellers are amazingly thoughtful.
Changed a rear tire in Roswell. The tire which had gone flat in Vaughn had developed a large bulge and needed to be replaced. Replaced it with my spare, a Michelin World Tour, the biggest 27" X 1 1/4" tire I have ever seen. We'll see how it last.
Today is our 24th anniversary, so opted for the Holiday Inn instead of the City Park with undrinkable water.
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 116.8 km
Total mileage: 3,025 km
Carlsbad is a very pretty city. The people have been very friendly as well.
Upon arriving in town two guys, very much products of the 60's, insisted on helping us find a place to camp. The one began by giving us directions and then the other butted in saying that he didn't know his directions. The 1st guy quieted down and seemed to accept this because he knew the 2nd guy was right. The 2nd guy gave us directions to a city park. I asked him if there was water there. The 1st guy blurted out something about water flowing from a pipe. The 2nd guy stated, "Ya, but that's not drinkable," to which the 1st guy replied, "I've been drinking it for years and look at me!" The 2nd guy and I looked at each other and smiled without saying anything.
The 1st guy had obviously been travelling as he had a couple of packs. I asked him if he had been travelling to which he didn't respond. The 2nd guy stated that he hitch hikes up to Artisia or Roswell, but somewhere along the line ends up on the wrong side of the road and eventually turns up back in Carlsbad. They went off on their way. Several other people talked with us, none having a previous history of drug abuse, and much more helpful.
Just south of Roswell beautiful corn crops lined both sides of the road and then huge orchards of pecan trees. The pecan orchards are something else. Acres and acres of huge trees, regular forests, quite impressive.
Further south, without irrigation the country turned into burnt grass pasture. We probably should have taken Hwy 2 which we parallelled. Hwy 2 to the east of us is closer to the Pecos River where the irrigation is. I could see more pecan orchards in that direction as well as dairy farm silos. That being said, hwy 285 south was a quiet road with good pavement.
Southbound from Artesia the pecan orchards started up again. In this area we also saw cotton crops. Continuing southbound we left the irrigated areas and returned to the desert which we have become fairly accustomed to.
Going through Artesia and before we knew what the orchards were, Deby asked some guys what the trees were. They asked her where she was from, it being unusual that someone didn't know about the trees. Deby told them British Columbia and on our way to Florida. One of the guys looked at her bike and said, "Holy shit, and you're not young either!" (I was thinking "You're telling me!" We all laughed). He told her the trees were pecans and said to drink plenty of tequila before leaving New Mexico.
Nearing Carlsbad the terrain became hilly again. This surprised me. I thought it would be flat from here on in.
An individual stopped us on the road. He was driving his vehicle and offered us water, pop, fruit cups, energy bars, etc. etc. Actually, he did more than offer, he sort of demanded we take something. I took a couple of fruit cups to appease him. So many travellers are amazingly thoughtful.
Changed a rear tire in Roswell. The tire which had gone flat in Vaughn had developed a large bulge and needed to be replaced. Replaced it with my spare, a Michelin World Tour, the biggest 27" X 1 1/4" tire I have ever seen. We'll see how it last.
Today is our 24th anniversary, so opted for the Holiday Inn instead of the City Park with undrinkable water.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
A long stretch
September 15th/09 - Roswell, New Mexico
Mileage: 149 km
Total mileage: 2,909 km
Camped in a beautiful RV park on 2nd street just east of Atkinson Road in Roswell, New Mexico. Came into Roswell on Hwy 285. We don't recall having been abducted. Our butts are sore, but we are almost positive that's from the bicycle seats.
Long, lonely ride today. The scenery was intriguing, but there was absolutely nothing in between Vaughn and Roswell. There are two towns on the map, Ramon and Mesa, but they don't exist. A local in Vaughn had told us that there was nothing so we packed provisions and extra water and did just fine. In fact, better than fine, we flew. All downhill with the wind behind us. Starting now to make a run for sea level at the Gulf of Mexico.
Green pastures leaving Vaughn, almost as far as the eye could see. Far off to the west a range of mountains does border them. I think the Captain Mountains.
A cactus grows in these pastures which I'm sure is continuously eradicated by the ranchers, only to grow back again. The cactus grows multi-stemmed and has branches shooting out everywhere like sausages with prickles. It grows 3-4 feet high on average and blooms yellow.
Closer to Roswell the pastures get dryer and the grass yellows. The cactus thin out and a low growing bush takes over. There is irrigation in this area now and the mainstay seems to be growing grass and alfalfa for hay. The hay must be worth gold. For all the ranching to the north I never did see any hay land.
Had a flat tire yesterday pulling into Vaughn. The Flat Attack stopped the leak with about 30 lbs pressure left. I blew the tire up and again, psst-psst, 30 lbs pressure. I took the tube with the Flat Attack out and threw it away. Confirmed...neither Slime or Flat Attack will work in a high pressure tire on a loaded bike.
As I was riding today, a lady pulled up beside me and asked if we needed any water, juice, fruit etc. She was farely insistent and I had to assure her that we had lots of fluids along with us. Reluctantly she went on her way. Locals know what a desolate stretch this is.
Then it occurred to me. Twenty six years ago when I rode this stretch, countless vehicles pulled up beside me and the occupants would pass me a beer as I rode. Finally I had to decline their offers as it was starting to get difficult to ride. I love Americans!
Deby did extremely well today. Almost 100 miles on a loaded bike with few stops. She rode fast too. The Polish, they never give up.
Mileage: 149 km
Total mileage: 2,909 km
Camped in a beautiful RV park on 2nd street just east of Atkinson Road in Roswell, New Mexico. Came into Roswell on Hwy 285. We don't recall having been abducted. Our butts are sore, but we are almost positive that's from the bicycle seats.
Long, lonely ride today. The scenery was intriguing, but there was absolutely nothing in between Vaughn and Roswell. There are two towns on the map, Ramon and Mesa, but they don't exist. A local in Vaughn had told us that there was nothing so we packed provisions and extra water and did just fine. In fact, better than fine, we flew. All downhill with the wind behind us. Starting now to make a run for sea level at the Gulf of Mexico.
Green pastures leaving Vaughn, almost as far as the eye could see. Far off to the west a range of mountains does border them. I think the Captain Mountains.
A cactus grows in these pastures which I'm sure is continuously eradicated by the ranchers, only to grow back again. The cactus grows multi-stemmed and has branches shooting out everywhere like sausages with prickles. It grows 3-4 feet high on average and blooms yellow.
Closer to Roswell the pastures get dryer and the grass yellows. The cactus thin out and a low growing bush takes over. There is irrigation in this area now and the mainstay seems to be growing grass and alfalfa for hay. The hay must be worth gold. For all the ranching to the north I never did see any hay land.
Had a flat tire yesterday pulling into Vaughn. The Flat Attack stopped the leak with about 30 lbs pressure left. I blew the tire up and again, psst-psst, 30 lbs pressure. I took the tube with the Flat Attack out and threw it away. Confirmed...neither Slime or Flat Attack will work in a high pressure tire on a loaded bike.
As I was riding today, a lady pulled up beside me and asked if we needed any water, juice, fruit etc. She was farely insistent and I had to assure her that we had lots of fluids along with us. Reluctantly she went on her way. Locals know what a desolate stretch this is.
Then it occurred to me. Twenty six years ago when I rode this stretch, countless vehicles pulled up beside me and the occupants would pass me a beer as I rode. Finally I had to decline their offers as it was starting to get difficult to ride. I love Americans!
Deby did extremely well today. Almost 100 miles on a loaded bike with few stops. She rode fast too. The Polish, they never give up.
Ride on
September 14/09 - Town Park, Vaughn, New Mexico
Mileage: 144 km
Total mileage: 2,904 km
Fantastic day of riding. Long gentle inclines, easy to peddle and equally long gentle descents. The whole day rolled away in that manner. The wind was to our backs, we skirted the rain showers, couldn't ask for better cycling conditions.
The day started with the hills being forested and slowly the bush disappeared. By Clines Corner at the intersection with I-40 the country had turned almost totally to rolling pasture land. Big, big ranches out here. Surprisingly the grass is tall green. I had thought it would be burnt yellow by this time of year, but no.
At Clines Corner we had a Mexican buffet. A good feed and luckily so because unknowingly we still had a long way to go.
South from Clines Corner we peddled intending to reach Encino and camp. It was a full day by the time we got there. Surprise there is nothing in Encino. Encino had obviously seen some hard times. Two closed gas stations and a main street consisting of old businesses with smashed windows, and no doors. We cycled another 26 kms to Vaughn. In Vaughn we made ourselves comfortable in the town park.
Where does the name Vaughn come from anyhow? In an area with such romantic, beautiful Latin names for towns, who thought of Vaughn? I think Vaughn must have been some crazy Anglo settler who just had to have things his own way. The other settlers must have got so sick of him that they finally said, "OK Vaughn, call the place whatever you like."
We met a fellow today as we were leaving the Santa Fe area. Our new friend Ross LewAllen had investigated our bikes outside a grocery store and shortly afterward associated them to the couple wearing black disco shorts and tap dancing shoes.
We talked with Ross for a long time. Ross, it turns out, was a pro cycle racer in the 60's and now practices Shamanic Healing in the Santa Fe area. We had lots in common and Ross was very interested in our tour.
In parting Ross gave us a Zuni Indian fetish. The fetish is a small beaver, approximately 1 1/2" carved in stone with several smaller stones on its back. Ross stated the smaller stones were rewards of the beaver. I asked him if it was a charm, and he said, "No, it is medicine." I asked him what the rewards of the beaver were and Ross smirked saying we would find out. He did say however that one of the rewards was that the beaver could build a home anywhere and be comfortable which was what we were doing. I will have to do my internet research, but I'll bet that the beaver being the hardest working animal on the planet also comes with the reward of tenacity and perseverance. Thank-you Ross. The spirit and intent that it was given with will carry us thousands of miles.
Interestingly enough, the beaver happens to be Canada's national animal and a very fitting gift for two Canadians. Also of interest, but unfortunate for the beaver, is that this little critter was responsible for the mapping of Canada and most of the United States during the early fur trade. The maps Deby and I now use to find our way through both countries. Thank God the beaver is prolific. And thank God for Archie Belainie.
*Note to self: Don't have 3 heaping plates at a Mexican buffet and then ride 74 kms. A bit of a dysentery issue arriving at the town park in Vaughn.
Mileage: 144 km
Total mileage: 2,904 km
Fantastic day of riding. Long gentle inclines, easy to peddle and equally long gentle descents. The whole day rolled away in that manner. The wind was to our backs, we skirted the rain showers, couldn't ask for better cycling conditions.
The day started with the hills being forested and slowly the bush disappeared. By Clines Corner at the intersection with I-40 the country had turned almost totally to rolling pasture land. Big, big ranches out here. Surprisingly the grass is tall green. I had thought it would be burnt yellow by this time of year, but no.
At Clines Corner we had a Mexican buffet. A good feed and luckily so because unknowingly we still had a long way to go.
South from Clines Corner we peddled intending to reach Encino and camp. It was a full day by the time we got there. Surprise there is nothing in Encino. Encino had obviously seen some hard times. Two closed gas stations and a main street consisting of old businesses with smashed windows, and no doors. We cycled another 26 kms to Vaughn. In Vaughn we made ourselves comfortable in the town park.
Where does the name Vaughn come from anyhow? In an area with such romantic, beautiful Latin names for towns, who thought of Vaughn? I think Vaughn must have been some crazy Anglo settler who just had to have things his own way. The other settlers must have got so sick of him that they finally said, "OK Vaughn, call the place whatever you like."
We met a fellow today as we were leaving the Santa Fe area. Our new friend Ross LewAllen had investigated our bikes outside a grocery store and shortly afterward associated them to the couple wearing black disco shorts and tap dancing shoes.
We talked with Ross for a long time. Ross, it turns out, was a pro cycle racer in the 60's and now practices Shamanic Healing in the Santa Fe area. We had lots in common and Ross was very interested in our tour.
In parting Ross gave us a Zuni Indian fetish. The fetish is a small beaver, approximately 1 1/2" carved in stone with several smaller stones on its back. Ross stated the smaller stones were rewards of the beaver. I asked him if it was a charm, and he said, "No, it is medicine." I asked him what the rewards of the beaver were and Ross smirked saying we would find out. He did say however that one of the rewards was that the beaver could build a home anywhere and be comfortable which was what we were doing. I will have to do my internet research, but I'll bet that the beaver being the hardest working animal on the planet also comes with the reward of tenacity and perseverance. Thank-you Ross. The spirit and intent that it was given with will carry us thousands of miles.
Interestingly enough, the beaver happens to be Canada's national animal and a very fitting gift for two Canadians. Also of interest, but unfortunate for the beaver, is that this little critter was responsible for the mapping of Canada and most of the United States during the early fur trade. The maps Deby and I now use to find our way through both countries. Thank God the beaver is prolific. And thank God for Archie Belainie.
*Note to self: Don't have 3 heaping plates at a Mexican buffet and then ride 74 kms. A bit of a dysentery issue arriving at the town park in Vaughn.
Santa Fe - 400 years old
September 13/09 - Ranchero RV Park, Santa Fe, New Mexico
Mileage: approximately 55 km
Total mileage: 2,760 km
Enjoying a campfire in the bush on a hillside just out of Santa Fe. The fire light off the junipers and the pines makes a person think he should check to see if the horses are still hobbled before turning in.
Beautiful forested country here. The mountains and hills are starting to get smaller. Not far from the flat lands now, just to the south of us.
Most of the homes in and around Santa Fe are adobe, earth red in color. They blend into the hillsides almost unnoticed. There is harmony with the land in the architecture, the way it should be.
A hectic ride into Santa Fe from Espanola. Multi-lane hwy and lots of traffic. It was all better however when we got in to Old Santa Fe and cycled the Old Santa Fe Trail, the Pecos Trail and the Old Las Vegas Trail. Very peaceful and a step back in time.
Watched the parade in the Old Town. Santa Fe is celebrating 400 years. Santa Fe was founded in 1610 AD. Somehow the math seems wrong to me, but maybe the locals are so excited they are celebrating a year early.
The parade was cool. Very different than any parade we northern Anglos are used to seeing. These are very happy people and I can imagine they love to party.
I talked with a couple of policemen in the Old Town. Cops everywhere. They seemed like they were in the same kind of mood that SPS members are in on July 1st at Diefenbaker Park.
Got to check the horses. Goodnight.
Mileage: approximately 55 km
Total mileage: 2,760 km
Enjoying a campfire in the bush on a hillside just out of Santa Fe. The fire light off the junipers and the pines makes a person think he should check to see if the horses are still hobbled before turning in.
Beautiful forested country here. The mountains and hills are starting to get smaller. Not far from the flat lands now, just to the south of us.
Most of the homes in and around Santa Fe are adobe, earth red in color. They blend into the hillsides almost unnoticed. There is harmony with the land in the architecture, the way it should be.
A hectic ride into Santa Fe from Espanola. Multi-lane hwy and lots of traffic. It was all better however when we got in to Old Santa Fe and cycled the Old Santa Fe Trail, the Pecos Trail and the Old Las Vegas Trail. Very peaceful and a step back in time.
Watched the parade in the Old Town. Santa Fe is celebrating 400 years. Santa Fe was founded in 1610 AD. Somehow the math seems wrong to me, but maybe the locals are so excited they are celebrating a year early.
The parade was cool. Very different than any parade we northern Anglos are used to seeing. These are very happy people and I can imagine they love to party.
I talked with a couple of policemen in the Old Town. Cops everywhere. They seemed like they were in the same kind of mood that SPS members are in on July 1st at Diefenbaker Park.
Got to check the horses. Goodnight.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
The louge
September 12th/09 - Espanola, New Mexico
Comfort Inn
Mileage: 134.4 km
Total mileage: 2705 km
Staying at a hotel tonight. I feel like a wimp. That's three hotels in a month. I guess I'm just treating the Princess right.
Deby did extremely well today. Kept right up when she was in the rear, and there was no catching up for me when she was out front. I think it has something to do with hormones. (I can't believe I actually typed that for him. I think it has to do with a civilized number of kilometers the day before, so my legs were not protesting all day!)
It was all downhill today from Chama to Espanola with only a few smaller uphill grades. Broad valley with beautiful pastures interspersed with forest all the way to Cebola. The valley then narrows with more or less continuous forest to Abiquiu. Some remarkable red rock mountains and rock walls along this stretch. From Abiquiu to Espanola the valley broadened out again and the Sangre De Cristo mountains began to show themselves off to the southeast.
Deby has put herself in charge of calculating the mileage now that my rainproof Sigma computer has given up the ghost. Deby watches the signs, and counts the mileage markers as we travel. This is probably not new to her. (Nope, I knew in the first 10 miles the day the Sigma quit that it was in miles, but let him figure it out at the end of the day by doing an extra couple of miles using the mileage markers to convince himself). I think she has been counting mileage markers since we left Grand Forks. In any case, I think she is more accurate than the computer was.
Rivers have now become Rios, and dry gulches or washes have now become Arroyos. Every name of every town, city and mountain range has become Spanish. Interesting country of diversity. Even most of the people are now obviously of Spanish decent. Man, oh man, they talk fast.
Comfort Inn
Mileage: 134.4 km
Total mileage: 2705 km
Staying at a hotel tonight. I feel like a wimp. That's three hotels in a month. I guess I'm just treating the Princess right.
Deby did extremely well today. Kept right up when she was in the rear, and there was no catching up for me when she was out front. I think it has something to do with hormones. (I can't believe I actually typed that for him. I think it has to do with a civilized number of kilometers the day before, so my legs were not protesting all day!)
It was all downhill today from Chama to Espanola with only a few smaller uphill grades. Broad valley with beautiful pastures interspersed with forest all the way to Cebola. The valley then narrows with more or less continuous forest to Abiquiu. Some remarkable red rock mountains and rock walls along this stretch. From Abiquiu to Espanola the valley broadened out again and the Sangre De Cristo mountains began to show themselves off to the southeast.
Deby has put herself in charge of calculating the mileage now that my rainproof Sigma computer has given up the ghost. Deby watches the signs, and counts the mileage markers as we travel. This is probably not new to her. (Nope, I knew in the first 10 miles the day the Sigma quit that it was in miles, but let him figure it out at the end of the day by doing an extra couple of miles using the mileage markers to convince himself). I think she has been counting mileage markers since we left Grand Forks. In any case, I think she is more accurate than the computer was.
Rivers have now become Rios, and dry gulches or washes have now become Arroyos. Every name of every town, city and mountain range has become Spanish. Interesting country of diversity. Even most of the people are now obviously of Spanish decent. Man, oh man, they talk fast.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Light day
September 11th/09
Mileage: 84.3 km
Total mileage: 2570 km
A beautiful day of riding south on Hwy 84. Prior to reaching Chromo there is some good climbing, but the ride is almost park like. The road is narrow and winds up through a tight forested valley of white spruce, blue spruce, ponderosa pine and burr oak. Traffic is very light, probably because people just can't go fast enough through here so they choose an alternate route.
Beyond Chromo the valley widens and the valley floor turns into beautiful ranch land. This is high country. Most of the towns we have gone through in the past week average about 7,000 ft in elevation. Chama is 7,800 feet. Lots of people in the mile high club around here.
As a point of interest, just east of Chromo, we crossed the Continental Divide from west to east. Now we'll be going the same direction as all the water on the continent on our way to Florida.
My waterproof Sigma computer/mileage recorder got wet in the rain yesterday. That seems to have been the end of it. Today, although it indicated kms it was actually recording in miles. Understandably at the end of the day we figured out why it seemed to be taking so long to get to where we were going. Now it doesn't work at all. Funny, they put a man on the moon with less computerization than an early Texas Instrument calculator, but they can't make a dependable bicycle speedometer.
Met a young guy when we were leaving Pagosa this morning. Very genuine, simple, humble 20 something year old. Perhaps a young guy who had fallen on some hard times with this recession. He was fishing in the river and we had seen him in this same place yesterday when we arrived in Pagosa. Anyway, we talked and he commented on how disgusting the garbage in the area and along side the highway was. I related to him how I felt the same way.
I told him of our blog and he wanted me to put it out there so that maybe someone would pick up on the problem. I told him I would, so here goes:
For all the good American people we have met along the way, take up the cause and get others to do the same. You have an extremely beautiful country, but amazingly enough it is full of discarded trash. I saw a lady wearing a red, white and blue t-shirt the other day. The t-shirt said , "These colors don't run." Well, I think the colors run together every time I look from my bicycle into the ditch. It hurts! The problem is everywhere, but the worst of the worst that we saw was between Price, Utah and Green River, Utah. I know of one little fisherman in Pagosa Springs who is trying to clean up the country, but he can't do it alone.
Signed - A friend and admirer of the United States.
Mileage: 84.3 km
Total mileage: 2570 km
A beautiful day of riding south on Hwy 84. Prior to reaching Chromo there is some good climbing, but the ride is almost park like. The road is narrow and winds up through a tight forested valley of white spruce, blue spruce, ponderosa pine and burr oak. Traffic is very light, probably because people just can't go fast enough through here so they choose an alternate route.
Beyond Chromo the valley widens and the valley floor turns into beautiful ranch land. This is high country. Most of the towns we have gone through in the past week average about 7,000 ft in elevation. Chama is 7,800 feet. Lots of people in the mile high club around here.
As a point of interest, just east of Chromo, we crossed the Continental Divide from west to east. Now we'll be going the same direction as all the water on the continent on our way to Florida.
My waterproof Sigma computer/mileage recorder got wet in the rain yesterday. That seems to have been the end of it. Today, although it indicated kms it was actually recording in miles. Understandably at the end of the day we figured out why it seemed to be taking so long to get to where we were going. Now it doesn't work at all. Funny, they put a man on the moon with less computerization than an early Texas Instrument calculator, but they can't make a dependable bicycle speedometer.
Met a young guy when we were leaving Pagosa this morning. Very genuine, simple, humble 20 something year old. Perhaps a young guy who had fallen on some hard times with this recession. He was fishing in the river and we had seen him in this same place yesterday when we arrived in Pagosa. Anyway, we talked and he commented on how disgusting the garbage in the area and along side the highway was. I related to him how I felt the same way.
I told him of our blog and he wanted me to put it out there so that maybe someone would pick up on the problem. I told him I would, so here goes:
For all the good American people we have met along the way, take up the cause and get others to do the same. You have an extremely beautiful country, but amazingly enough it is full of discarded trash. I saw a lady wearing a red, white and blue t-shirt the other day. The t-shirt said , "These colors don't run." Well, I think the colors run together every time I look from my bicycle into the ditch. It hurts! The problem is everywhere, but the worst of the worst that we saw was between Price, Utah and Green River, Utah. I know of one little fisherman in Pagosa Springs who is trying to clean up the country, but he can't do it alone.
Signed - A friend and admirer of the United States.
Cool running
September 10th/09 - Pagosa Springs Riverside Campground
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 2486 km
Camped tonight in a very nice campground. Even have Chong from 'Up in Smoke' camped beside us. Oh, what a miserable life he has had and I've heard every detail. The guy means well though.
We started out today in busy traffic eastbound on Hwy 160. A bit overcast, but the cooler temperature was welcome. Mostly mountainous bush country, moderate grades, easy riding.
East of Bayfield we travelled through the San Juan National Forest. Beautiful big pines which I admired very much. I found out from one of the locals in Pagosa Springs that these are Ponderosa Pines.
Continuing east we were blessed with a long descent. I reached 67 km/hr with my old bike. I couldn't help feeling like Hans Solo in his junk yard space ship at warp speed waiting for it to disintegrate.
We sailed into what was supposed to be the town of Chimney Rock looking forward to a break and some lunch. Chimney Rock however, consisted of only an old closed down restaurant and a market garden. Since neither of us wanted a cob of corn for lunch we continued on.
Ominous clouds to the north of us haunted us all day. They finally broke open as we reached the Turkey Spring Trading Post. We drank coffee and ate burritos through the worst of it and then left for Pagosa under only light showers.
Nearing Pagosa Springs the higher peaks of the San Juan mountain range came into view. Everyday has a new breathtaking vista. We will head south tomorrow into New Mexico on the western slopes of the San Juan's.
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Mileage: 100 km
Total mileage: 2486 km
Camped tonight in a very nice campground. Even have Chong from 'Up in Smoke' camped beside us. Oh, what a miserable life he has had and I've heard every detail. The guy means well though.
We started out today in busy traffic eastbound on Hwy 160. A bit overcast, but the cooler temperature was welcome. Mostly mountainous bush country, moderate grades, easy riding.
East of Bayfield we travelled through the San Juan National Forest. Beautiful big pines which I admired very much. I found out from one of the locals in Pagosa Springs that these are Ponderosa Pines.
Continuing east we were blessed with a long descent. I reached 67 km/hr with my old bike. I couldn't help feeling like Hans Solo in his junk yard space ship at warp speed waiting for it to disintegrate.
We sailed into what was supposed to be the town of Chimney Rock looking forward to a break and some lunch. Chimney Rock however, consisted of only an old closed down restaurant and a market garden. Since neither of us wanted a cob of corn for lunch we continued on.
Ominous clouds to the north of us haunted us all day. They finally broke open as we reached the Turkey Spring Trading Post. We drank coffee and ate burritos through the worst of it and then left for Pagosa under only light showers.
Nearing Pagosa Springs the higher peaks of the San Juan mountain range came into view. Everyday has a new breathtaking vista. We will head south tomorrow into New Mexico on the western slopes of the San Juan's.
Deby the unstopable
September 9th/09 - Durango, Colorado
Mileage: 144.26 km
Total mileage: 2387 km
Ride time: 7:21 hrs
Staying at the Super 8 Hotel tonight. We got into Durango at dusk and started asking about campgrounds, but no one could help us. Funny, you live in a city all your life, but don't know where the campgrounds are.
Bicycle touring is always a challenge. So much of what you need to know depends on local information, or lack thereof. We cycled around Durango for a while (beautiful place) and then as it darkened, got off the road before our untimely demise. Gets dark faster and faster the further south you get.
Leaving Dove Creek this morning you could tell the farming improved eastward. Probably more rain and for sure a better irrigation network. The hills rolled by and the shoulders widened. Nice riding. The sleeping Ute mountains loomed up to the south as we neared Cortez and the La Plata mountains could be seen growing in front of us as we continued eastward.
We had lunch in a park at Cortez. Peanut butter and honey sandwiches, you can never get enough. As we ate I could see the clouds gathering. It looked as though our pleasant day was going to involve some hardship before the day was done. I hoped that we could make it through the La Plata mountains before the storm came.
We left Cortez and just before getting to Mancos the winds began. We struggled into Mancos and the pass in front of us was totally obscured by rain. We procrastinated a bit at Mancos and then made the decision to continue. After all, how bad could it be.
The climb began, the rains swirled and the winds roared. Pushing forward at a slow rate I thought my speedo was going to start going backwards any second. There was little relief from the elements and we pushed forward like a couple of canoeists going upstream.
Finally, soaked to the bone and suffering from the initial stages of hypothermia I made a crucial decision. One of us was going to survive. Knowing that a service station was only 14 kms away I bolted. Up the pass, through the intensifying gail, against all odds I made it. Teeth uncontrollably chattering I pulled into the Oasis of warmth and coffee. Ten minutes later Deby stumbled in the door, soggy and expressionless stating nothing except "I need food".
We had coffee and sugared up and began to come back to reality. The next assault from the elements was to come shortly.
As Deby was getting ready, I spoke with a guy inside the station. He told me that if we were heading to Durango to dress warm for the rest of the ride. He said that from the station to Durango was 11 miles straight down. I was jubilant. I went outside and told Deby what the guy had said. Deby looked at me with that same expressionless face and simply said, "he's lying!" She started out and I never saw here again for 11 miles.
The descent was fantastic. I could feel the air warm foot by foot as I dropped to the valley floor. When I met up with Deby in Durango we were both warm, dry and comfortable (so glad I was wrong and the guy wasn't lying!!!).
Things always get better and so ended another perfect day.
Mileage: 144.26 km
Total mileage: 2387 km
Ride time: 7:21 hrs
Staying at the Super 8 Hotel tonight. We got into Durango at dusk and started asking about campgrounds, but no one could help us. Funny, you live in a city all your life, but don't know where the campgrounds are.
Bicycle touring is always a challenge. So much of what you need to know depends on local information, or lack thereof. We cycled around Durango for a while (beautiful place) and then as it darkened, got off the road before our untimely demise. Gets dark faster and faster the further south you get.
Leaving Dove Creek this morning you could tell the farming improved eastward. Probably more rain and for sure a better irrigation network. The hills rolled by and the shoulders widened. Nice riding. The sleeping Ute mountains loomed up to the south as we neared Cortez and the La Plata mountains could be seen growing in front of us as we continued eastward.
We had lunch in a park at Cortez. Peanut butter and honey sandwiches, you can never get enough. As we ate I could see the clouds gathering. It looked as though our pleasant day was going to involve some hardship before the day was done. I hoped that we could make it through the La Plata mountains before the storm came.
We left Cortez and just before getting to Mancos the winds began. We struggled into Mancos and the pass in front of us was totally obscured by rain. We procrastinated a bit at Mancos and then made the decision to continue. After all, how bad could it be.
The climb began, the rains swirled and the winds roared. Pushing forward at a slow rate I thought my speedo was going to start going backwards any second. There was little relief from the elements and we pushed forward like a couple of canoeists going upstream.
Finally, soaked to the bone and suffering from the initial stages of hypothermia I made a crucial decision. One of us was going to survive. Knowing that a service station was only 14 kms away I bolted. Up the pass, through the intensifying gail, against all odds I made it. Teeth uncontrollably chattering I pulled into the Oasis of warmth and coffee. Ten minutes later Deby stumbled in the door, soggy and expressionless stating nothing except "I need food".
We had coffee and sugared up and began to come back to reality. The next assault from the elements was to come shortly.
As Deby was getting ready, I spoke with a guy inside the station. He told me that if we were heading to Durango to dress warm for the rest of the ride. He said that from the station to Durango was 11 miles straight down. I was jubilant. I went outside and told Deby what the guy had said. Deby looked at me with that same expressionless face and simply said, "he's lying!" She started out and I never saw here again for 11 miles.
The descent was fantastic. I could feel the air warm foot by foot as I dropped to the valley floor. When I met up with Deby in Durango we were both warm, dry and comfortable (so glad I was wrong and the guy wasn't lying!!!).
Things always get better and so ended another perfect day.
Back on the road again
September 8th/09 - Dove Creek, Colorado
Mileage: 134.9 km
Total mileage: 2242 km
Ride time: 7:27 hrs
Tonight we are camped in what you would think is a yard for old machinery, but the sign out front says Blue Mountain RV Park. When you're cycling though, anyplace to stay is a wonderful place even if you have to go down the street in the dark to take a dump at the local Shell station. We weren't charged for the place. I don't think the owner would have felt right asking us for money.
Leaving Moab this morning we had Deby's Specialized Armadillo replaced at Rim Cycle. It turns out there was a bad batch of these tires and her rear tire was one of them. The tire was delaminating and they were only to happy to replace it on warranty. I am very happy with the tires. Deby has only had two flat since we got them, both being nail punctures, both which can be forgiven. Road chip coating and thorns have been overcome by these tires.
Travelling south toward Monticello is a very pretty ride. In reality you can't grasp this crazy country unless you investigate the surrounding parks, but travelling south you do get a taste as the valley you follow is a microcosm of the area. Red rock walls, canyons, boulders as big as a house balanced on boulders as big as a shed etc. etc.
For some time as you travel, the La Sal mountains watch over you from the east. As you get closer to Monticello the Abajo mountains pop up to the west. These are huge mountains, but relatively small ranges. Hard to believe they can pop up out of nowhere when the rest of the surrounding country is so different.
Big climb right before Monticello. You leave the desert here and climb up into the pines. I actually saw standing water here in one of the washes. A rare sighting. These isolated spots must have meant life or death to early desert travellers.
From Monticello we travelled east on Hwy 491 to Dove Creek, Colorado. The land changed again. The La Sals to the north and the Abajos now behind us we entered rolling plains. We began to see some dry land farming with a smattering of irrigation. Didn't really look like the Garden of Eden. Still dry country. I don't think any farmers get rich around here.
We rolled into Dove Creek - another good day.
The day was long for my Polish Princess. She said she didn't want to do another day like that (or here those famous words 'it wasn't supposed to be that far'!) How was I supposed to know what tomorrow would bring.
Mileage: 134.9 km
Total mileage: 2242 km
Ride time: 7:27 hrs
Tonight we are camped in what you would think is a yard for old machinery, but the sign out front says Blue Mountain RV Park. When you're cycling though, anyplace to stay is a wonderful place even if you have to go down the street in the dark to take a dump at the local Shell station. We weren't charged for the place. I don't think the owner would have felt right asking us for money.
Leaving Moab this morning we had Deby's Specialized Armadillo replaced at Rim Cycle. It turns out there was a bad batch of these tires and her rear tire was one of them. The tire was delaminating and they were only to happy to replace it on warranty. I am very happy with the tires. Deby has only had two flat since we got them, both being nail punctures, both which can be forgiven. Road chip coating and thorns have been overcome by these tires.
Travelling south toward Monticello is a very pretty ride. In reality you can't grasp this crazy country unless you investigate the surrounding parks, but travelling south you do get a taste as the valley you follow is a microcosm of the area. Red rock walls, canyons, boulders as big as a house balanced on boulders as big as a shed etc. etc.
For some time as you travel, the La Sal mountains watch over you from the east. As you get closer to Monticello the Abajo mountains pop up to the west. These are huge mountains, but relatively small ranges. Hard to believe they can pop up out of nowhere when the rest of the surrounding country is so different.
Big climb right before Monticello. You leave the desert here and climb up into the pines. I actually saw standing water here in one of the washes. A rare sighting. These isolated spots must have meant life or death to early desert travellers.
From Monticello we travelled east on Hwy 491 to Dove Creek, Colorado. The land changed again. The La Sals to the north and the Abajos now behind us we entered rolling plains. We began to see some dry land farming with a smattering of irrigation. Didn't really look like the Garden of Eden. Still dry country. I don't think any farmers get rich around here.
We rolled into Dove Creek - another good day.
The day was long for my Polish Princess. She said she didn't want to do another day like that (or here those famous words 'it wasn't supposed to be that far'!) How was I supposed to know what tomorrow would bring.
4 Wheelin
September 7th/09 - Moab Valley RV Park
Rented a Jeep today and were off at 7:30 a.m. Toured Arches National Park and Canyon Lands National Park. Also visited Dead Horse Point State Park.
These parks are beyond description and photos do them no justice. You have to see them in person. This is Wiley E Coyote country. Only the mountains and canyons look like they are on steroids as compared to the cartoon. The Lord must have invented peyote the day that he made these parks because they are like no other place on earth.
We took a 4X4 only road through Canyon Lands. Thirty miles of road that you want to take a rental 4X4 on, not your own. We followed the Colorado River paralleling it on a high Mesa, but nowhere near the upper rim of the canyon.
Near the west end of the park we had to climb out of the canyon. I'm guessing 2,000 - 3,000 feet elevation gain straight up a wall. And I mean a straight wall.
Turns out a rancher first made the road to move his cattle up and down from the bottom to rim. This road proves that you don't have to go to school to be a genius! The Inca Indians with their little trails aren't as impressive after travelling this road.
Don't ever take this road to test your manhood. You might fail and then the gig is up. It is something to behold; switch backs carved to and fro on a cliff face. Princess spent the ride in the passenger seat hyper ventilating and dry heaving (and that's not one bit of exaggeration!! I enjoyed the first 25 miles immensely...the last 5 miles up a cliff face, not so much). I thought a road like this only existed in National Geographic photos. We lived through it. I was impressed. Tomorrow is another day.
Rented a Jeep today and were off at 7:30 a.m. Toured Arches National Park and Canyon Lands National Park. Also visited Dead Horse Point State Park.
These parks are beyond description and photos do them no justice. You have to see them in person. This is Wiley E Coyote country. Only the mountains and canyons look like they are on steroids as compared to the cartoon. The Lord must have invented peyote the day that he made these parks because they are like no other place on earth.
We took a 4X4 only road through Canyon Lands. Thirty miles of road that you want to take a rental 4X4 on, not your own. We followed the Colorado River paralleling it on a high Mesa, but nowhere near the upper rim of the canyon.
Near the west end of the park we had to climb out of the canyon. I'm guessing 2,000 - 3,000 feet elevation gain straight up a wall. And I mean a straight wall.
Turns out a rancher first made the road to move his cattle up and down from the bottom to rim. This road proves that you don't have to go to school to be a genius! The Inca Indians with their little trails aren't as impressive after travelling this road.
Don't ever take this road to test your manhood. You might fail and then the gig is up. It is something to behold; switch backs carved to and fro on a cliff face. Princess spent the ride in the passenger seat hyper ventilating and dry heaving (and that's not one bit of exaggeration!! I enjoyed the first 25 miles immensely...the last 5 miles up a cliff face, not so much). I thought a road like this only existed in National Geographic photos. We lived through it. I was impressed. Tomorrow is another day.
Crazy country
September 6th/09 - Moab Valley RV Park
Moab, Utah
Mileage: 102.97 km
Total mileage: 2107 km
Ride time: 5:00 hrs
Mild temperature and good early start. Rode east on the interstate for 18 miles and then turned south to head to Moab.
South to Moab was all downhill. The interstate had some grade, but nothing out of the ordinary.
Closing in on Moab the world started to look different. The mountains, and in particular the canyon we were in started to show very intense color. Mostly a dark ochre, but orange and greens were also apparent. Strange country - shear rock walls that look like huge blocks of modeling clay that were placed on top of each other.
Found a nice campground. I guess Moab wasn't as crowded as we thought. Shouldn't have spent that extra day in Green River.
Moab, Utah
Mileage: 102.97 km
Total mileage: 2107 km
Ride time: 5:00 hrs
Mild temperature and good early start. Rode east on the interstate for 18 miles and then turned south to head to Moab.
South to Moab was all downhill. The interstate had some grade, but nothing out of the ordinary.
Closing in on Moab the world started to look different. The mountains, and in particular the canyon we were in started to show very intense color. Mostly a dark ochre, but orange and greens were also apparent. Strange country - shear rock walls that look like huge blocks of modeling clay that were placed on top of each other.
Found a nice campground. I guess Moab wasn't as crowded as we thought. Shouldn't have spent that extra day in Green River.
Day in Green River, Utah
September 5th - Still at KOA, Green River, Utah
Stayed put and relaxed. Pleasant day, mild temperature. Went to the museum and visited with Camp Hosts and other campers.
I changed the rear tire on my bike today. The old rear tire was badly worn and had a bulge created from a bruise. I must be a sucker for punishment because I put another product in the tire tubes. The product is called Flat Attack and it is supposed to be better than Slime. Which begs the question, why would I try something else when the other product, Slime, guaranteed 100% effectiveness and didn't work?? We will see how Flat Attack works.
Stayed put and relaxed. Pleasant day, mild temperature. Went to the museum and visited with Camp Hosts and other campers.
I changed the rear tire on my bike today. The old rear tire was badly worn and had a bulge created from a bruise. I must be a sucker for punishment because I put another product in the tire tubes. The product is called Flat Attack and it is supposed to be better than Slime. Which begs the question, why would I try something else when the other product, Slime, guaranteed 100% effectiveness and didn't work?? We will see how Flat Attack works.
Dry country
September 4th/09 - KOA, Green River, Utah
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 2004 km
Ride time: 4:24 hrs
Ready to go this morning; Deby's Surly had a flat tire. Discovered a nail in it. Took it out, patched the tube and were on our way.
All downhill to Green River with a headwind that slowed us a bit. Also, according to the map there was supposed to be a town, called Woodside, that actually existed at the halfway point...it didn't. We stopped there for a break anyway. I discovered I had a flat tire. Fixed it and we were on our way. It was about 100 degrees.
The lack of the town we had expected left us hurting for water. By the time we pulled into Green River we pretty much drank everything that was liquid at the 1st service station we came across. Sure felt good.
Beautiful ride...solemn stretch, but busy with traffic. Everyone with a camper, a motorhome, a boat or a 4 wheel drive anything seemed to be heading south to Moab or Powell Lake. Today was the Friday before the Labor Day long weekend. Deby and I made the decision to hide out in Green River on Saturday and head to Moab on Sunday. We had little desire to catch up to that crowd.
As we travelled south from Wellington the valley widened. The valley also got increasingly dry. Truly desert. By the time we got just west of Green River the valley consisted of white hard pan and some very sparse sage and tuft grass. Mountains visible on both sides, plateaus really, and several buttes. The town of Green River is a bit of an oasis on the river. The Green River flows through it.
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 2004 km
Ride time: 4:24 hrs
Ready to go this morning; Deby's Surly had a flat tire. Discovered a nail in it. Took it out, patched the tube and were on our way.
All downhill to Green River with a headwind that slowed us a bit. Also, according to the map there was supposed to be a town, called Woodside, that actually existed at the halfway point...it didn't. We stopped there for a break anyway. I discovered I had a flat tire. Fixed it and we were on our way. It was about 100 degrees.
The lack of the town we had expected left us hurting for water. By the time we pulled into Green River we pretty much drank everything that was liquid at the 1st service station we came across. Sure felt good.
Beautiful ride...solemn stretch, but busy with traffic. Everyone with a camper, a motorhome, a boat or a 4 wheel drive anything seemed to be heading south to Moab or Powell Lake. Today was the Friday before the Labor Day long weekend. Deby and I made the decision to hide out in Green River on Saturday and head to Moab on Sunday. We had little desire to catch up to that crowd.
As we travelled south from Wellington the valley widened. The valley also got increasingly dry. Truly desert. By the time we got just west of Green River the valley consisted of white hard pan and some very sparse sage and tuft grass. Mountains visible on both sides, plateaus really, and several buttes. The town of Green River is a bit of an oasis on the river. The Green River flows through it.
Beautiful Utah
September 3rd/09 - Moutainview RV Park
Wellington, Utah
Mileage: 102.378 km
Total mileage: 1903 km
Ride time: 4:42 hrs
Started out this morning climbing and climbed for approximately 40 km to Soldier Summit (7,477 ft.) Long steady grade, slow going. Deby is becoming a much stronger rider now.
The scenery along the ride today was remarkable. Strange rock formation throughout the valley almost like you are on a different planet. Some of the rocks and talus slopes range from white, to dark green, light green, to orange and red. Large junipers grow everywhere along with the bush type pine that I described earlier. The brush is dense, but not so dense that you couldn't walk anywhere in these hills that you choose.
Hwy 6 SE is busy. Probably the busiest hwy we have been on yet. This along with the rumble strips that the engineers have chosen to destroy the shoulders with made the riding a little hectic.
Had a flat rear tire even with the impenetrable Slime liner and the tube full of Slime which is supposed to plug holes. I pumped it up like you're supposed to do, to let the Slime find the hole. I rode for another 1/4 mile and it was flat again. I took the tire off and there was green goo everywhere. I patched the tube like I wasn't supposed to have to do and went on. Another 1/4 mile and psst - psst - psst - slime hissing out like a fire hydrant. New hole. I took the tire off. Shit everywhere. I put in a new tube. No Slime this time and we were on our way. The old tube resembled a gooey eel and was unfixable. The myth has been busted, Slime doesn't work.
From the top of Soldier pass it was downhill all the way to Price and then Wellington. We worked for that stretch.
Deby and I are starting to ride very well together. She is starting to figure this riding thing out.
Wellington, Utah
Mileage: 102.378 km
Total mileage: 1903 km
Ride time: 4:42 hrs
Started out this morning climbing and climbed for approximately 40 km to Soldier Summit (7,477 ft.) Long steady grade, slow going. Deby is becoming a much stronger rider now.
The scenery along the ride today was remarkable. Strange rock formation throughout the valley almost like you are on a different planet. Some of the rocks and talus slopes range from white, to dark green, light green, to orange and red. Large junipers grow everywhere along with the bush type pine that I described earlier. The brush is dense, but not so dense that you couldn't walk anywhere in these hills that you choose.
Hwy 6 SE is busy. Probably the busiest hwy we have been on yet. This along with the rumble strips that the engineers have chosen to destroy the shoulders with made the riding a little hectic.
Had a flat rear tire even with the impenetrable Slime liner and the tube full of Slime which is supposed to plug holes. I pumped it up like you're supposed to do, to let the Slime find the hole. I rode for another 1/4 mile and it was flat again. I took the tire off and there was green goo everywhere. I patched the tube like I wasn't supposed to have to do and went on. Another 1/4 mile and psst - psst - psst - slime hissing out like a fire hydrant. New hole. I took the tire off. Shit everywhere. I put in a new tube. No Slime this time and we were on our way. The old tube resembled a gooey eel and was unfixable. The myth has been busted, Slime doesn't work.
From the top of Soldier pass it was downhill all the way to Price and then Wellington. We worked for that stretch.
Deby and I are starting to ride very well together. She is starting to figure this riding thing out.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Down, down, down
September 2nd/09 - Spanish Fork River Park, Utah
SE of Provo, Utah on Hwy 6
Mileage: 80.53 km
Total mileage: 1801 km
Ride time: 3:57 hrs
Talked with John before leaving Heber City this morning. Very interesting guy. Told us of his struggles with protesters when he returned from Vietnam.
John told us that back in the US he and his brother went for a drive. He said that as they were driving he saw a long haired guy who he equated with a protester. John stated that he had made horrible remarks about this guy as they continued to travel. John's brother apparently said, "why would you say those things about that guy, I have long hair too". John said to his brother, "but you're my brother". His brother then said "so is that guy". John told us that this was when one of the veils from Nam was lifted from him. War is horrible; John's comment just struck me and I had to make note of it.
All downhill from Heber City. All downhill to Provo through the beautiful Provo Canyon. The trip was fast, but it slowed in Provo and the connecting cities to the south because of congestion. However, Provo and the adjacent cities are made for cycling with wide shoulders on the main streets, and bike lanes.
Met two guys in a Chinese restaurant. Both were very interested in our trip and the one in particular was very enthusiastic. He listened to where we had come from and our plans as to where we were going. There was a silence after we had finished our story and then he blurted out "I suck!" We all laughed. Unfortunately we didn't exchange names, but the guys do have the link to our blog, so 'Chinese Food Guys' if you read this, send us an email at fehr42@hotmail.com. We'd like to talk with you again someday.
Lovely evening here. Just jumped in the river for a bath. Life is good! Goodnight.
SE of Provo, Utah on Hwy 6
Mileage: 80.53 km
Total mileage: 1801 km
Ride time: 3:57 hrs
Talked with John before leaving Heber City this morning. Very interesting guy. Told us of his struggles with protesters when he returned from Vietnam.
John told us that back in the US he and his brother went for a drive. He said that as they were driving he saw a long haired guy who he equated with a protester. John stated that he had made horrible remarks about this guy as they continued to travel. John's brother apparently said, "why would you say those things about that guy, I have long hair too". John said to his brother, "but you're my brother". His brother then said "so is that guy". John told us that this was when one of the veils from Nam was lifted from him. War is horrible; John's comment just struck me and I had to make note of it.
All downhill from Heber City. All downhill to Provo through the beautiful Provo Canyon. The trip was fast, but it slowed in Provo and the connecting cities to the south because of congestion. However, Provo and the adjacent cities are made for cycling with wide shoulders on the main streets, and bike lanes.
Met two guys in a Chinese restaurant. Both were very interested in our trip and the one in particular was very enthusiastic. He listened to where we had come from and our plans as to where we were going. There was a silence after we had finished our story and then he blurted out "I suck!" We all laughed. Unfortunately we didn't exchange names, but the guys do have the link to our blog, so 'Chinese Food Guys' if you read this, send us an email at fehr42@hotmail.com. We'd like to talk with you again someday.
Lovely evening here. Just jumped in the river for a bath. Life is good! Goodnight.
Ups and Downs
September 1st/09 - Herber City, Utah
Swiss Alps Motel
Mileage: 107.76 km
Total mileage: 1720 km
Ride time: 5:36 hrs
We started from the campground south and west still on Hwy 150. Beautiful mountains and forest, however the pine beetles have had their fill in here.
The climbing began immediately and we climbed for approximately 25 km before reaching the summit of Bald Mountain pass. The summit is 10,760 ft. I have seen people under extreme exertion get altitude sickness at these heights. Believe me, we were under extreme exertion, but we managed to top out.
Whoever built this road must have had a warped sense of humor because it is loaded with false summits and at many times is very discouraging as a result. The Princess was getting a little grouchy as we climbed, so I stayed well ahead. There was some bad mojo going on behind me. (No comment!)
Passed by Fehr Lake prior to reaching the Bald Mountain summit. I'm hoping the lake was named after a noble guy and not some horse thief a posse strung up there.
The reward for the climb, you guessed it, approximately 50 kms downhill into Kamas, Utah. At Kamas we recooped and headed for Heber City.
Just out of Kamas we went west from a town called Frances and were treated to a 10% downhill grade. We followed a canyon with all kinds of crazy rock formations. The peddling was easy but only for a time. Turns out there are some exceptional climbs on the way to Herber City.
The vistas enroute are absolutely incredible and the mountains to the west which we were approaching were huge. The views down the valleys from the heights we attained were endless. Having done all that climbing, we coasted 8 kms downhill into Heber City. A beautiful city too.
Swiss Alps Motel
Mileage: 107.76 km
Total mileage: 1720 km
Ride time: 5:36 hrs
We started from the campground south and west still on Hwy 150. Beautiful mountains and forest, however the pine beetles have had their fill in here.
The climbing began immediately and we climbed for approximately 25 km before reaching the summit of Bald Mountain pass. The summit is 10,760 ft. I have seen people under extreme exertion get altitude sickness at these heights. Believe me, we were under extreme exertion, but we managed to top out.
Whoever built this road must have had a warped sense of humor because it is loaded with false summits and at many times is very discouraging as a result. The Princess was getting a little grouchy as we climbed, so I stayed well ahead. There was some bad mojo going on behind me. (No comment!)
Passed by Fehr Lake prior to reaching the Bald Mountain summit. I'm hoping the lake was named after a noble guy and not some horse thief a posse strung up there.
The reward for the climb, you guessed it, approximately 50 kms downhill into Kamas, Utah. At Kamas we recooped and headed for Heber City.
Just out of Kamas we went west from a town called Frances and were treated to a 10% downhill grade. We followed a canyon with all kinds of crazy rock formations. The peddling was easy but only for a time. Turns out there are some exceptional climbs on the way to Herber City.
The vistas enroute are absolutely incredible and the mountains to the west which we were approaching were huge. The views down the valleys from the heights we attained were endless. Having done all that climbing, we coasted 8 kms downhill into Heber City. A beautiful city too.
Windy Wyoming
August 31st/09 - Bear River Campground, Utah
Wasatch National Forest
Mileage: 109.13 km
Total mileage: 1612 kms
Ride time: 6:02 hrs
Cycled south towards Evanston, Wyoming. Strong head wind - tough going. The locals told us that this country is always windy.
The valley grew very broad toward Evanston. Mostly flat with some gentle rolling hills. Mostly all grassland and cattle. Haven't seen one Herford. Every cow everywhere seems to be black Angus. The valley here is so broad that it almost looks like the plains, except for the far shadows of the mountains on either side.
Beyond Evanston on hwy 150 the valley gets a little tighter, and the hills a little bigger. We still faced the same vicious headwind. Still grassland and cattle.
The peddling became harder for reasons unknown at the time. The peddling was even harder than the headwind was responsible for. The mystery was solved when we reached the Utah boarder and the elevation sign indicated 7,800 ft. We had been climbing imperceptibly for miles and miles.
We entered the Wasatch National Forest and camped at the first campground we found. We had the campground all to ourselves. No more wind. We were now engulfed in forest and entering the Uinta mountain range. (Just a small tip here for those of you who shave their legs...if you are bathing in a mountain river at dusk and decide to use that new razor that you picked up, maybe rethink the decision. That razor will take the top off every goose bump along with the hair. Not real comfortable or pretty!!)
Wasatch National Forest
Mileage: 109.13 km
Total mileage: 1612 kms
Ride time: 6:02 hrs
Cycled south towards Evanston, Wyoming. Strong head wind - tough going. The locals told us that this country is always windy.
The valley grew very broad toward Evanston. Mostly flat with some gentle rolling hills. Mostly all grassland and cattle. Haven't seen one Herford. Every cow everywhere seems to be black Angus. The valley here is so broad that it almost looks like the plains, except for the far shadows of the mountains on either side.
Beyond Evanston on hwy 150 the valley gets a little tighter, and the hills a little bigger. We still faced the same vicious headwind. Still grassland and cattle.
The peddling became harder for reasons unknown at the time. The peddling was even harder than the headwind was responsible for. The mystery was solved when we reached the Utah boarder and the elevation sign indicated 7,800 ft. We had been climbing imperceptibly for miles and miles.
We entered the Wasatch National Forest and camped at the first campground we found. We had the campground all to ourselves. No more wind. We were now engulfed in forest and entering the Uinta mountain range. (Just a small tip here for those of you who shave their legs...if you are bathing in a mountain river at dusk and decide to use that new razor that you picked up, maybe rethink the decision. That razor will take the top off every goose bump along with the hair. Not real comfortable or pretty!!)
Deby's catching up
August 30/09 - Randolf, Utah
Mileage: 109.1 km
Total mileage: 1503 km
Ride time: 5:20 hrs
South down Hwy 89 from Montpellier, Idaho. Large valley, agricultural and fairly flat. Made good time.
Deby was right behind me most of the day. I think she's almost ready to start carrying the tent and cook stove. Either that, or I will have to let some air out of her tires.
50 kms out we stopped at Merlin's Drive Inn restaurant for lunch. Had the best burgers in America. If you are ever by this way you have to check it out (It's in Garden City,Utah).
As we travelled south we skirted the west side of Bear Lake. Bear Lake is huge and is very unique in it's color. Although there are no glaciers around here it is that turquoise blue of a glacial lake. Heavily used for recreation; there were thousands of people on the shores and in the water enjoying it. We turned east around the south end of the lake and then made an 8 km ascent up a beautiful canyon. There is typical Utah red cliffs now starting to appear. In the canyon among the sage grew large junipers and what looked like split cone pines. The climb was lots of work, but there was no stopping for either of us. The reward, a 12 km decent to Sage Creek Junction.
All desert as we descended. At the junction we turned south on hwy 16 and into a massive headwind. This was where Deby fell behind. She took up drafting me and we continued on slowly to Randolf.
The valley here becomes like a wide plain. There is a stunning mountain range to the southeast that borders the valley with a continuous rock wall. Mostly hay land and cattle ranching here.
You know how you learn something new everyday, well, you also forget something everyday!! I know better by now, but I accepted campground information from a local, no questions asked. We ended up riding 2 miles west of town on a washboard gravel road to a run down campground in the middle of a field. Used mostly as a turn around point for other campers I'm sure. We were stuck here. You just can't back track that much when your riding a bike.
A good day anyway!
Mileage: 109.1 km
Total mileage: 1503 km
Ride time: 5:20 hrs
South down Hwy 89 from Montpellier, Idaho. Large valley, agricultural and fairly flat. Made good time.
Deby was right behind me most of the day. I think she's almost ready to start carrying the tent and cook stove. Either that, or I will have to let some air out of her tires.
50 kms out we stopped at Merlin's Drive Inn restaurant for lunch. Had the best burgers in America. If you are ever by this way you have to check it out (It's in Garden City,Utah).
As we travelled south we skirted the west side of Bear Lake. Bear Lake is huge and is very unique in it's color. Although there are no glaciers around here it is that turquoise blue of a glacial lake. Heavily used for recreation; there were thousands of people on the shores and in the water enjoying it. We turned east around the south end of the lake and then made an 8 km ascent up a beautiful canyon. There is typical Utah red cliffs now starting to appear. In the canyon among the sage grew large junipers and what looked like split cone pines. The climb was lots of work, but there was no stopping for either of us. The reward, a 12 km decent to Sage Creek Junction.
All desert as we descended. At the junction we turned south on hwy 16 and into a massive headwind. This was where Deby fell behind. She took up drafting me and we continued on slowly to Randolf.
The valley here becomes like a wide plain. There is a stunning mountain range to the southeast that borders the valley with a continuous rock wall. Mostly hay land and cattle ranching here.
You know how you learn something new everyday, well, you also forget something everyday!! I know better by now, but I accepted campground information from a local, no questions asked. We ended up riding 2 miles west of town on a washboard gravel road to a run down campground in the middle of a field. Used mostly as a turn around point for other campers I'm sure. We were stuck here. You just can't back track that much when your riding a bike.
A good day anyway!
A day off in Montpellier, Idaho
August 29/09 - KOA, Montpellier, Idaho
Mileage: 13.92 km
Total mileage: 1394 km
Spent the day around town doing errands. Updated our blog at the town library and then completed updates at the Super 8 Hotel after the library closed.
Met a good guy at the Super 8 who had just cycled into town. Tom Dempster started out this morning at 5:00 a.m. from Salt Lake City, Utah. When we first talked he was pulling up on his bike at about 4:00 p.m. That's a 167 mile ride, approximately 267.2 km, and nothing around here even resembles the prairies. Tom was going to stay at the hotel tonight and turn around and ride back tomorrow. Getting off his bike he looked as though he had used as much energy as it takes to run across a street beating a walk light. I appreciate that kind of tenacity. It is admirable to see that in a person. We had a long conversation and exchanged address information hoping to talk again one day.
Bought some liquid Slime today and put it in my rear tire for an experiment. Hope I don't end up down the road covered in green goop. If I do I guess it didn't work. Bought the Slime after waking up this morning with a flat tire. Can't even sleep without getting a flat.
Talked with another fella today. He was very impressed with our bicycle trip and was very encouraging. He said that our greatest commodity in life is the time we have on earth, and that we were using it well. Almost brought a tear to my eye, but then I toughened up and told him he was full of it. Well...not really. I really respected him for getting the drift of what we were doing.
Mileage: 13.92 km
Total mileage: 1394 km
Spent the day around town doing errands. Updated our blog at the town library and then completed updates at the Super 8 Hotel after the library closed.
Met a good guy at the Super 8 who had just cycled into town. Tom Dempster started out this morning at 5:00 a.m. from Salt Lake City, Utah. When we first talked he was pulling up on his bike at about 4:00 p.m. That's a 167 mile ride, approximately 267.2 km, and nothing around here even resembles the prairies. Tom was going to stay at the hotel tonight and turn around and ride back tomorrow. Getting off his bike he looked as though he had used as much energy as it takes to run across a street beating a walk light. I appreciate that kind of tenacity. It is admirable to see that in a person. We had a long conversation and exchanged address information hoping to talk again one day.
Bought some liquid Slime today and put it in my rear tire for an experiment. Hope I don't end up down the road covered in green goop. If I do I guess it didn't work. Bought the Slime after waking up this morning with a flat tire. Can't even sleep without getting a flat.
Talked with another fella today. He was very impressed with our bicycle trip and was very encouraging. He said that our greatest commodity in life is the time we have on earth, and that we were using it well. Almost brought a tear to my eye, but then I toughened up and told him he was full of it. Well...not really. I really respected him for getting the drift of what we were doing.
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