October 29th/09 - Key West, FL
Double Tree Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,730 km
We left Marathon south bound on our very last leg of the journey. Sunny skies and the wind behind us, just as brother Greg had wished for us when we visited back in Bay City, Texas. Record high temperatures for this time of year. I think it was 90 degrees or something like that. All the Floridians are complaining but Deby and I find it quite comfortable...strange, eh.
Hwy 1 immediately took us over the seven mile bridge to Bahia Honda, our tires whining as we travelled easily in high gear. The palm branches chased us as we passed by, sailing down the road. Through Big Pine Key, Ramrod and Summerland Key, just to name a few. Then mysteriously and without conversation, we began to slow. Both Deby and I began to loose our expression of elation and we began to doddle. Slower and slower we rode. At one point we stopped to watch several iguanas at the roadside and at another point we stopped on a bridge for some time to watch a shark lazily swimming in the emerald waters. We talked and realized that neither of us wanted this trip to end. What was supposed to be a victorious occasion was now an occasion that we approached with mixed feelings.
We continued on through Sugarloaf Key, Boca Chica and finally to Key West. Immediately we rode to the monument marking the Southern most point of Continental USA for a photo shoot. We somewhat forced a smile and had another tourist take a photo of us. Again, mixed feelings.
This trip has been long, but it feels like we started it yesterday. This trip has been ripe with hardship, challenges and even pain, which all seems to have happened a thousand years ago...all forgotten (well mostly!). This trip has been full of beauty, oneness with nature, friendship and memories that will last forever.
There is no medication for our mixed feelings, nothing that can remedy those pangs. The only hope we have is to cycle from Alaska to Grand Forks next spring to complete the trip, north to south. Too bad I didn't think of that before we started. (Jury is still out if I'm going along on that leg, but there is a very strong possibility!).
Calypso, my bike, has been retired. I gave the 25 year old bike to the owner of the bicycle shop here...'Fixed Gears'. He said he knows a tall hippie that could use him. Calypso will spend his final years rolling through the sea breezes under the palms. Couldn't be a finer retirement for a machine that has served me so well.
October 31st we fly home to Grand Forks. Thank you all for coming along with us. It has meant a lot to us to keep our friends and family informed of our adventure, and we thank you for the many comments of encouragement along the way. May all your adventures be as wonderful!!
Friday, October 30, 2009
Closing In
October 28th/09-Marathon, FL
Ranch House Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,650 km
Tonight we are staying in a small motel in Marathon. We cycled south through several Keys en route; Travernier, Plantation, Windley, Upper Matecumbe, Teatable, Indian, Lower Matecumbe, Fiesta, Long, Duck, Grassy, Crawl, Fat Deer and finally Stirrup Key where Marathon is located.
Many small communities. Very picturesque ride with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right. Brilliant green emerald waters.
Most of the Keys have bicycle paths adjacent to the Hwy. We took the paths when it suited us but mostly we stuck to the Hwy. It's hard to make time on the paths and the bicycle paths have dangers of their own. Motorists coming from the rear and making a right turn are rather oblivious to the fact that a cyclist may be beside them and motorists approaching the Hwy from a side street don't always look for a cyclist on the path. Thus, cycling on the path does tend to take some of the joy from the experience.
In Islamorada we talked with a group of ladies after having lunch at a restaurant. We learned from them that crocodiles from the southern tip of Florida are beginning to show up in the Keys. That's crocodiles, not alligators. Crocodiles are saltwater creatures and more aggressive than alligators - interesting. We had an enjoyable conversation the these ladies. They seemed to have a lot of fun together and both Deby and I thought they must have some pretty wild wine and cheese parties. I say this because I think they are reading this and laughing because it's true. Come on girls, ain't it so?
A four foot iguana ran along beside us today. Amazingly fast and powerful animals. Big racket, rocks flying. Beautiful reptiles. I hope they are native here and that people just don't let their pets go.
Tomorrow we will end our trip at Key West, the southern most point of the continental United States; southern most point of North America for that matter. Deby is happy with the achievement; I am sad that it will be over, but if we go any further we will drown.
Ranch House Hotel
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 6,650 km
Tonight we are staying in a small motel in Marathon. We cycled south through several Keys en route; Travernier, Plantation, Windley, Upper Matecumbe, Teatable, Indian, Lower Matecumbe, Fiesta, Long, Duck, Grassy, Crawl, Fat Deer and finally Stirrup Key where Marathon is located.
Many small communities. Very picturesque ride with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right. Brilliant green emerald waters.
Most of the Keys have bicycle paths adjacent to the Hwy. We took the paths when it suited us but mostly we stuck to the Hwy. It's hard to make time on the paths and the bicycle paths have dangers of their own. Motorists coming from the rear and making a right turn are rather oblivious to the fact that a cyclist may be beside them and motorists approaching the Hwy from a side street don't always look for a cyclist on the path. Thus, cycling on the path does tend to take some of the joy from the experience.
In Islamorada we talked with a group of ladies after having lunch at a restaurant. We learned from them that crocodiles from the southern tip of Florida are beginning to show up in the Keys. That's crocodiles, not alligators. Crocodiles are saltwater creatures and more aggressive than alligators - interesting. We had an enjoyable conversation the these ladies. They seemed to have a lot of fun together and both Deby and I thought they must have some pretty wild wine and cheese parties. I say this because I think they are reading this and laughing because it's true. Come on girls, ain't it so?
A four foot iguana ran along beside us today. Amazingly fast and powerful animals. Big racket, rocks flying. Beautiful reptiles. I hope they are native here and that people just don't let their pets go.
Tomorrow we will end our trip at Key West, the southern most point of the continental United States; southern most point of North America for that matter. Deby is happy with the achievement; I am sad that it will be over, but if we go any further we will drown.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Swimming with the fish
October 27th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Took the day off and went on a snorkeling charter out to the Enchanted Reef. Both Deby and I loved it. 1 1/2 hours in the water swimming with the fish.
The water world is so undiscovered to so many, so much beauty. We swam among the schools and along with the schools of fish. The tens of thousands of fish didn't mind our presence and many of them even appeared curious of us. I don't think there is anything more accepting than a fish. (Unless of course it's a shark, that thankfully we didn't see)
Our dive buddies were Adam and Michelle and we very much enjoyed their company on the boat. More American hospitality. Thank-you both!!
Tomorrow we continue south. We are not sure what Key we will end up on, but I know we are going to enjoy another day.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Took the day off and went on a snorkeling charter out to the Enchanted Reef. Both Deby and I loved it. 1 1/2 hours in the water swimming with the fish.
The water world is so undiscovered to so many, so much beauty. We swam among the schools and along with the schools of fish. The tens of thousands of fish didn't mind our presence and many of them even appeared curious of us. I don't think there is anything more accepting than a fish. (Unless of course it's a shark, that thankfully we didn't see)
Our dive buddies were Adam and Michelle and we very much enjoyed their company on the boat. More American hospitality. Thank-you both!!
Tomorrow we continue south. We are not sure what Key we will end up on, but I know we are going to enjoy another day.
The Keys
October 26th/09 - Key Largo, FL
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Mileage: 35 Km
Total mileage: 6,570 km
We left this morning south on Hwy 1 from Florida City. Very busy hwy. Everyone who wants to go to the Keys has to use this road, and Miami being so close, you can imagine the traffic. We made it to Key Largo and it's a good feeling to be so close to our final destination.
Met two other cyclists in the park this evening. Jesse and Angelina had just left Miami and in a round about way were headed for Oregon. They were heading to Key West first and then taking a boat to Fort Myers. From there they were going north through Florida and then west to California. From California, north to Oregon.
They looked a little ill prepared and confused at the end of their first day as they struggled to put up their tent in the dark. I tried to share some wisdom with Jesse as to what to expect in days to come as they travelled. Such things as equipment failures, repairs, maintenance, weather, campgrounds, or lack thereof, don't get discouraged, things always get better, yada, yada, yada. I could tell he really wasn't listening. He had become brainwashed by well intentioned bicycle shop employees.
A rare few bicycle shop employees ever tour. They may have taken a trip on a bike, but an expedition is a whole different story. They may cycle 50 km everyday after work in preparation for a 100 km race on the weekend, but it's not the same! To make an expedition easier you have to listen to people who have done it before.
I felt I had to do something for Jesse and Angelina, but I couldn't figure out what. I thought of at least giving him my Walmart spare tire, Deby and I being so close to the end of our journey. Then I looked at the onion skin rear tire on my bike and thought otherwise. I might need that spare in the next 100 miles. In the end, Deby and I gave Jess and Angelina $20 each with a word of encouragement. It had meant so much to us when times were dark that there were people out there that knew we could do it.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Mileage: 35 Km
Total mileage: 6,570 km
We left this morning south on Hwy 1 from Florida City. Very busy hwy. Everyone who wants to go to the Keys has to use this road, and Miami being so close, you can imagine the traffic. We made it to Key Largo and it's a good feeling to be so close to our final destination.
Met two other cyclists in the park this evening. Jesse and Angelina had just left Miami and in a round about way were headed for Oregon. They were heading to Key West first and then taking a boat to Fort Myers. From there they were going north through Florida and then west to California. From California, north to Oregon.
They looked a little ill prepared and confused at the end of their first day as they struggled to put up their tent in the dark. I tried to share some wisdom with Jesse as to what to expect in days to come as they travelled. Such things as equipment failures, repairs, maintenance, weather, campgrounds, or lack thereof, don't get discouraged, things always get better, yada, yada, yada. I could tell he really wasn't listening. He had become brainwashed by well intentioned bicycle shop employees.
A rare few bicycle shop employees ever tour. They may have taken a trip on a bike, but an expedition is a whole different story. They may cycle 50 km everyday after work in preparation for a 100 km race on the weekend, but it's not the same! To make an expedition easier you have to listen to people who have done it before.
I felt I had to do something for Jesse and Angelina, but I couldn't figure out what. I thought of at least giving him my Walmart spare tire, Deby and I being so close to the end of our journey. Then I looked at the onion skin rear tire on my bike and thought otherwise. I might need that spare in the next 100 miles. In the end, Deby and I gave Jess and Angelina $20 each with a word of encouragement. It had meant so much to us when times were dark that there were people out there that knew we could do it.
Gators, snakes and panathers
October 25th/09 - Florida City, FL
EconoLodge
Mileage: 180 km
Total milage: 6,535 km
Tonight we are staying at the EconoLodge in Florida City. We thought we would be staying in Homestead, but somewhere we crossed a street and ended up in Florida City.
Long ride today, 180 Kms. Deby was bound and determined not to camp in the Everglades and it so happens that from Naples to Florida City it is almost all Everglades! We passed more campgrounds travelling through this area than we have on the whole trip, but no, on we went. The idea of alligators and snakes was bad enough for her, but when we saw several road signs allerting motorists of panther crossings, that cinched it.
Riding through the Everglades was beautiful. We had a tailwind, a bright sunny day, and the traffic was light. Gators like this kind of weather as well. Hopefully not because the cyclists are out, but because they like to sun themselves in the grass and for the same reason they float at the top of the water. We saw lots of them. If there is water, there truly is a gator here. Deby was also amused (Not!!) by snakes falling out of trees into the canal beside the road as we rode by.
The ride through the Everglades was like watching an I-Max movie. Many species of beautiful exotic birds flew from the water and the trees as we passed by. They flew beside us and they flew in front of us. With the wind behind us, we rode in silence hearing only their song and the wind over their wings. A day of jaw dropping beauty. I wish I knew the names of the different types of birds we were seeing. All I can say is big, various colors, long long legs and long long beaks.
While the wildlife was jaw dropping we had to keep our mouths shut. The bugs at times rained on us. Interestingly enough the different bugs have their own locales and they don't mix. First we had the clouds of little guys. The ones that fill your eyes and nose. Later we had the bugs that bleed their guts all over you as they strike. Lastly we had the flocks of round beetles that hit you like a rock and come along for the ride.
Princess got a trophy beetle in the eye. Her eye swelled up. She's kind of got the 'Festis' look from 'Gun Smoke,' but she's healing.
Tomorrow we plan to be on Key Largo. The final run.
EconoLodge
Mileage: 180 km
Total milage: 6,535 km
Tonight we are staying at the EconoLodge in Florida City. We thought we would be staying in Homestead, but somewhere we crossed a street and ended up in Florida City.
Long ride today, 180 Kms. Deby was bound and determined not to camp in the Everglades and it so happens that from Naples to Florida City it is almost all Everglades! We passed more campgrounds travelling through this area than we have on the whole trip, but no, on we went. The idea of alligators and snakes was bad enough for her, but when we saw several road signs allerting motorists of panther crossings, that cinched it.
Riding through the Everglades was beautiful. We had a tailwind, a bright sunny day, and the traffic was light. Gators like this kind of weather as well. Hopefully not because the cyclists are out, but because they like to sun themselves in the grass and for the same reason they float at the top of the water. We saw lots of them. If there is water, there truly is a gator here. Deby was also amused (Not!!) by snakes falling out of trees into the canal beside the road as we rode by.
The ride through the Everglades was like watching an I-Max movie. Many species of beautiful exotic birds flew from the water and the trees as we passed by. They flew beside us and they flew in front of us. With the wind behind us, we rode in silence hearing only their song and the wind over their wings. A day of jaw dropping beauty. I wish I knew the names of the different types of birds we were seeing. All I can say is big, various colors, long long legs and long long beaks.
While the wildlife was jaw dropping we had to keep our mouths shut. The bugs at times rained on us. Interestingly enough the different bugs have their own locales and they don't mix. First we had the clouds of little guys. The ones that fill your eyes and nose. Later we had the bugs that bleed their guts all over you as they strike. Lastly we had the flocks of round beetles that hit you like a rock and come along for the ride.
Princess got a trophy beetle in the eye. Her eye swelled up. She's kind of got the 'Festis' look from 'Gun Smoke,' but she's healing.
Tomorrow we plan to be on Key Largo. The final run.
Pressing on
October 24th/09 - Naples, FL
Gulf Coast Inn
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,355 km
Tonight we are staying in a beautiful hotel in Naples. $59 for the stay. These low season rates are fantastic.
Naples is a gorgeous place. Every tree, every bush, every blade of grass is manicured. I imagine the residents demand it that way. This is no ordinary city. I have never seen so many $80,000+ vehicles in any one place at any one time.
We left Punta Gorda this morning under sunny skies. Hot today. Temperatures were in the 90's. We travelled south on Hwy 41 through Tropical Gulf Acres and several other communities to Fort Myers.
At Fort Myers I had a flat tire. To make a long story short, due to the location of the hole in the tube I couldn't patch it. No problem, I always have a spare tube. I took my spare out of its box which was labeled 27" only to find the tube was actually a 26". Hooped...it didn't fit. As I sat perplexed, a fella, later known to me as Dennis Willy, approached me and said he would take me to the local Walmart to get another tube. His wife Marlene stayed with Deby and they made girl talk. Fixed the tire thanks to Dennis and Marlene and were on our way.
Continued south through Estero, Bonita Springs and on to Naples. Again, the towns were very close together, but the ride today was more rural than yesterday. Heavy traffic, but no problems.
Editorial time - I cringe when people state that cycle touring must be fun. It is not fun. Of a long list of adjectives that describe cycling 'fun' is at the bottom.
Cycle touring is peddling up high mountain passes that never seem to end; peddling up those passes when it's to hot, or when it's to cold, or in the pouring rain and having to fix a flat halfway up. Cycle touring is running out of water in the desert and having to go on for hours because there is just no one. Cycle touring is eating peanut butter and honey sandwiches for supper because the town you were going to get groceries in didn't exist. Cycle touring is not showering for days as you travel through the middle of no where. Cycle touring is sleeping who knows where. And then there's the wind.
Cycle touring is surreal as you coast through creation seeing the sights and smelling the scents. Cycle touring is community; meeting the people as you travel, hearing their stories and enjoying their company. Cycle touring is hardship; the hardship that makes the rewards greater.
For everything cycle touring is, it is not fun. Cycle touring is tough and gruelling, but very, very addictive.
Gulf Coast Inn
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,355 km
Tonight we are staying in a beautiful hotel in Naples. $59 for the stay. These low season rates are fantastic.
Naples is a gorgeous place. Every tree, every bush, every blade of grass is manicured. I imagine the residents demand it that way. This is no ordinary city. I have never seen so many $80,000+ vehicles in any one place at any one time.
We left Punta Gorda this morning under sunny skies. Hot today. Temperatures were in the 90's. We travelled south on Hwy 41 through Tropical Gulf Acres and several other communities to Fort Myers.
At Fort Myers I had a flat tire. To make a long story short, due to the location of the hole in the tube I couldn't patch it. No problem, I always have a spare tube. I took my spare out of its box which was labeled 27" only to find the tube was actually a 26". Hooped...it didn't fit. As I sat perplexed, a fella, later known to me as Dennis Willy, approached me and said he would take me to the local Walmart to get another tube. His wife Marlene stayed with Deby and they made girl talk. Fixed the tire thanks to Dennis and Marlene and were on our way.
Continued south through Estero, Bonita Springs and on to Naples. Again, the towns were very close together, but the ride today was more rural than yesterday. Heavy traffic, but no problems.
Editorial time - I cringe when people state that cycle touring must be fun. It is not fun. Of a long list of adjectives that describe cycling 'fun' is at the bottom.
Cycle touring is peddling up high mountain passes that never seem to end; peddling up those passes when it's to hot, or when it's to cold, or in the pouring rain and having to fix a flat halfway up. Cycle touring is running out of water in the desert and having to go on for hours because there is just no one. Cycle touring is eating peanut butter and honey sandwiches for supper because the town you were going to get groceries in didn't exist. Cycle touring is not showering for days as you travel through the middle of no where. Cycle touring is sleeping who knows where. And then there's the wind.
Cycle touring is surreal as you coast through creation seeing the sights and smelling the scents. Cycle touring is community; meeting the people as you travel, hearing their stories and enjoying their company. Cycle touring is hardship; the hardship that makes the rewards greater.
For everything cycle touring is, it is not fun. Cycle touring is tough and gruelling, but very, very addictive.
Friday, October 23, 2009
City riding
October 23rd - Punta Gorda, FL
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,254km
Leaving Palmetto we travelled south on Hwy 41 through Bradenton, Sarasota, Osprey, Laurel, Nokomis, Venice, North Port, Port Charlotte, Charlotte Harbor and finally to Punta Gorda. Nearing the end of our day I knew we were in luck when we crossed Charlotte Harbor and from the bridge viewed lots of hotels along its south shore being Punta Gorda. Tired of trying to find campgrounds we got a room at the Best Western with an ocean view. Beautiful community.
The entire day was city riding. The towns may have different names but each and every one of them are linked together. It was a very different kind of riding day, but interesting with lots to take in. Multi-lane congested traffic all day, but everyone was polite and gave us the room we needed.
I find that if you ride out into the right lane a bit you are visible to motorists at a greater distance and they will go around you. If you hug the curb on the right side of the road they won't give you an inch.
The motorists around here are well behaved. It is a matter of survival. There is so much traffic that rules of the road and speed limits have to be obeyed to keep the flow continuous. If you can ride a bike among motorists in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and survive, riding here is a pleasure.
Apart from Punta Gorda, Sarasota was particularly beautiful. We rode along the water front, the parks and marinas.
The day was slow going. Lots of traffic lights to negotiate and lots of exits and merges to navigate. Average riding speed was down throughout.
Sunny, warm, good to be alive!
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 101 km
Total mileage: 6,254km
Leaving Palmetto we travelled south on Hwy 41 through Bradenton, Sarasota, Osprey, Laurel, Nokomis, Venice, North Port, Port Charlotte, Charlotte Harbor and finally to Punta Gorda. Nearing the end of our day I knew we were in luck when we crossed Charlotte Harbor and from the bridge viewed lots of hotels along its south shore being Punta Gorda. Tired of trying to find campgrounds we got a room at the Best Western with an ocean view. Beautiful community.
The entire day was city riding. The towns may have different names but each and every one of them are linked together. It was a very different kind of riding day, but interesting with lots to take in. Multi-lane congested traffic all day, but everyone was polite and gave us the room we needed.
I find that if you ride out into the right lane a bit you are visible to motorists at a greater distance and they will go around you. If you hug the curb on the right side of the road they won't give you an inch.
The motorists around here are well behaved. It is a matter of survival. There is so much traffic that rules of the road and speed limits have to be obeyed to keep the flow continuous. If you can ride a bike among motorists in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and survive, riding here is a pleasure.
Apart from Punta Gorda, Sarasota was particularly beautiful. We rode along the water front, the parks and marinas.
The day was slow going. Lots of traffic lights to negotiate and lots of exits and merges to navigate. Average riding speed was down throughout.
Sunny, warm, good to be alive!
Frustration
October 22nd - Palmetto, FL
Frog Creek RV Park
Mileage: 130 km
Total Mileage: 6,153 km
Sunny skies, cool morning, cycling south from Brooksville on Hwy 41. Cycled through Masaryktown, Growers Corner, Land O' Lakes and on into Tampa. Interesting ride with nice communities, but congested with traffic which increased as we neared Tampa. The drivers were courteous and gave us lots of room.
Tampa was easy to get through, north to south, still on Hwy 41. However, it took a long time. Again, the drivers were all courteous with one exception. One lady yelled at Deby to get on the side walk. Deby yelled back, "Get a bike ya fat pig." Well...not really. That's what I told Deby she should have said when she told me the story later.
From Tampa we continued south on Hwy 41 through Gibsonton, Apollo Beach and Ruskin. Our final destination for the day being Palmetto. Along the way we began to see more cattle and even some agriculture. The agriculture consisted on strawberry fields and some strange crop covered in netting. I don't know if the netting was for sun protection or to keep the birds off. Still mostly trees and forested areas between communities.
Deby has come a long way. She drafts me like a pro, so close that on occasion she hits my back panniers with her front tire. A bit unnerving when your going 24 km per hour, but I know that if she is that close she is doing it right. Looking back it's like a mosquito that I just can't manage to swat. We look good riding together. On lookers must think that we were Olympians back in 1920.
Deby has graduated from a snails pace, having to get off the bike every 10 kms to a cyclist who can ride fast for 128 kms per day. For our American friends that's 80+ miles a day. We get off the bikes about every 1 1/2 hours now to gulp down a litre of water and get some circulation back in our arses.
In Palmetto we search for a campground. None to be found. We were turned away from the RV Parks because the wouldn't take a tent. Finally we found Frog Creek, an RV Park who's management has some sense and they gave us a patch of grass. Albeit a $35 patch of grass. Very, very nice place.
Frog Creek RV Park
Mileage: 130 km
Total Mileage: 6,153 km
Sunny skies, cool morning, cycling south from Brooksville on Hwy 41. Cycled through Masaryktown, Growers Corner, Land O' Lakes and on into Tampa. Interesting ride with nice communities, but congested with traffic which increased as we neared Tampa. The drivers were courteous and gave us lots of room.
Tampa was easy to get through, north to south, still on Hwy 41. However, it took a long time. Again, the drivers were all courteous with one exception. One lady yelled at Deby to get on the side walk. Deby yelled back, "Get a bike ya fat pig." Well...not really. That's what I told Deby she should have said when she told me the story later.
From Tampa we continued south on Hwy 41 through Gibsonton, Apollo Beach and Ruskin. Our final destination for the day being Palmetto. Along the way we began to see more cattle and even some agriculture. The agriculture consisted on strawberry fields and some strange crop covered in netting. I don't know if the netting was for sun protection or to keep the birds off. Still mostly trees and forested areas between communities.
Deby has come a long way. She drafts me like a pro, so close that on occasion she hits my back panniers with her front tire. A bit unnerving when your going 24 km per hour, but I know that if she is that close she is doing it right. Looking back it's like a mosquito that I just can't manage to swat. We look good riding together. On lookers must think that we were Olympians back in 1920.
Deby has graduated from a snails pace, having to get off the bike every 10 kms to a cyclist who can ride fast for 128 kms per day. For our American friends that's 80+ miles a day. We get off the bikes about every 1 1/2 hours now to gulp down a litre of water and get some circulation back in our arses.
In Palmetto we search for a campground. None to be found. We were turned away from the RV Parks because the wouldn't take a tent. Finally we found Frog Creek, an RV Park who's management has some sense and they gave us a patch of grass. Albeit a $35 patch of grass. Very, very nice place.
Every experience a good experience
October 21st - Brooksville, FL
Oaks Motel
Mileage: 127 km
Total mileage: 6,023 km
I think someone died here. Not only the smell is an indicator, but the whole atmosphere of this place. I am staring at a bug right now that is as big as a Chihuahua.
I am writing of the shack we are staying in, part of the Oaks Motel. The small shack is so old that I'm sure the pilgrims built it. Surrounded by huge Live Oak trees with moss on the branches hanging down like curtains in the darkness it is a backdrop for a horror movie. I keep thinking that we are going to be locked inside and corn fed until sausage making time.
We ended up here after putting in a lengthy day battling the wind. No campground in this town and this being the only hotel or motel. I'm not going to be thrilled if we pass a Days Inn leaving this town tomorrow. Every experience is a good experience though, it's kind of humorous.
We left Cheifland this morning south on Hwy 98. We cycled through Otter Creek, Inglis, Crystal River and Homosassa Springs. All interesting communities. Crystal River had loads of RV Parks. The winter Floridians are beginning to arrive.
We continued on to Brooksville. Approximately 20 miles from Brooksville we were again treated to a very pretty ride. The road narrowed to two lane and the big trees closed in. Periodic ranches at the roadside and hills. This stretch was inland. Most all of the coastal riding has been flat.
Tomorrow we will head south on Hwy 41 hoping to find the easiest way through Tampa. We don't want to have to muscle any 4 wheelers.
Oaks Motel
Mileage: 127 km
Total mileage: 6,023 km
I think someone died here. Not only the smell is an indicator, but the whole atmosphere of this place. I am staring at a bug right now that is as big as a Chihuahua.
I am writing of the shack we are staying in, part of the Oaks Motel. The small shack is so old that I'm sure the pilgrims built it. Surrounded by huge Live Oak trees with moss on the branches hanging down like curtains in the darkness it is a backdrop for a horror movie. I keep thinking that we are going to be locked inside and corn fed until sausage making time.
We ended up here after putting in a lengthy day battling the wind. No campground in this town and this being the only hotel or motel. I'm not going to be thrilled if we pass a Days Inn leaving this town tomorrow. Every experience is a good experience though, it's kind of humorous.
We left Cheifland this morning south on Hwy 98. We cycled through Otter Creek, Inglis, Crystal River and Homosassa Springs. All interesting communities. Crystal River had loads of RV Parks. The winter Floridians are beginning to arrive.
We continued on to Brooksville. Approximately 20 miles from Brooksville we were again treated to a very pretty ride. The road narrowed to two lane and the big trees closed in. Periodic ranches at the roadside and hills. This stretch was inland. Most all of the coastal riding has been flat.
Tomorrow we will head south on Hwy 41 hoping to find the easiest way through Tampa. We don't want to have to muscle any 4 wheelers.
Manhattans
October 20th - Cheifland FL
Chiefland Campground
Mileage: 115 km
Total mileage: 5,896 km
Camped tonight in an RV Park in Chiefland. Arrived here by cycling a 20 mile bike path from Cross City. The bike path information was given to us by Greg back in Panama City Beach.
The bike path was a wonderful deviation. Quiet and peaceful. It followed an old rail bed and lead back into the trees giving us a genuine forest tour. At one point we crossed a trestle over a beautiful river. Lots of high volume rivers in Florida. The fresh water has a brown tint, but is clear. The odd snake crossed the path. Man, they can move when they have too. Deby wasn't so impressed with anything about the snakes.
On the path we met fellow cyclist, David Newman. David directed us to the RV Park where he and his wife Emily were staying. We went on our way to the Park.
In the evening we visited with David and Emily. David introduced us to Manhattans which we found very favorable. I think I'll retire the Hurricanes and Margaritas for a while.
We talked of cycling and motorcycling as David is very interested in both. David told us to look up the website crazyguyonabike.com as we would find many kindred spirits there. Apparently, the site is a collection of extensive cycling expeditions. The evening passed and all of us enjoyed each others company.
Deby and I started cycling this morning from Hampton Springs east into Perry. We then continued south on Hwy 98 through Tennille and then into Cross City. The Hwy here is 4 lane divided, but lightly travelled.
(Coming into Cross City around lunch time, Kim spied a 'Buffet' sign. He can spot them miles off. This restaurant also had a sign saying it had been established in 1928 so he figured if it had lasted that long the food had to be great. It was, and we had a nice visit with our waitress. Our waitress had told the owner about our trip and when I went to pay she just handed me a post card of the Cypress Inn Restaurant that she had written, "Have a Wonderful trip" on and said the meal was on her. Wonderful and generous people have made this trip a great experience!!)
Most of the day we travelled through trees. Some ranching has begun to appear. There also appears to be a substantial forest industry here. Many forested areas have been replanted and numerous logging trucks pass by.
Chiefland Campground
Mileage: 115 km
Total mileage: 5,896 km
Camped tonight in an RV Park in Chiefland. Arrived here by cycling a 20 mile bike path from Cross City. The bike path information was given to us by Greg back in Panama City Beach.
The bike path was a wonderful deviation. Quiet and peaceful. It followed an old rail bed and lead back into the trees giving us a genuine forest tour. At one point we crossed a trestle over a beautiful river. Lots of high volume rivers in Florida. The fresh water has a brown tint, but is clear. The odd snake crossed the path. Man, they can move when they have too. Deby wasn't so impressed with anything about the snakes.
On the path we met fellow cyclist, David Newman. David directed us to the RV Park where he and his wife Emily were staying. We went on our way to the Park.
In the evening we visited with David and Emily. David introduced us to Manhattans which we found very favorable. I think I'll retire the Hurricanes and Margaritas for a while.
We talked of cycling and motorcycling as David is very interested in both. David told us to look up the website crazyguyonabike.com as we would find many kindred spirits there. Apparently, the site is a collection of extensive cycling expeditions. The evening passed and all of us enjoyed each others company.
Deby and I started cycling this morning from Hampton Springs east into Perry. We then continued south on Hwy 98 through Tennille and then into Cross City. The Hwy here is 4 lane divided, but lightly travelled.
(Coming into Cross City around lunch time, Kim spied a 'Buffet' sign. He can spot them miles off. This restaurant also had a sign saying it had been established in 1928 so he figured if it had lasted that long the food had to be great. It was, and we had a nice visit with our waitress. Our waitress had told the owner about our trip and when I went to pay she just handed me a post card of the Cypress Inn Restaurant that she had written, "Have a Wonderful trip" on and said the meal was on her. Wonderful and generous people have made this trip a great experience!!)
Most of the day we travelled through trees. Some ranching has begun to appear. There also appears to be a substantial forest industry here. Many forested areas have been replanted and numerous logging trucks pass by.
It always gets better
October 19th - Hampton Springs, FL
Rocky's Campground
Mileage: 152 km
Total mileage: 5,781 km
Bundled up this morning we continued east bound on Hwy 98. Along the coast we rode through Carrabellla and Lanark Village. Beautiful seaside homes and homes nestled into the stately trees as we rode. Clear skies, the cold front having pushed out the moist air.
Inland on Hwy 319 to Sopchoppy and then back to Hwy 98 through Medart and Newport. It was here that Princess got a little testy. Having put in quite a few miles already she was worried about making it another 41 miles to Perry before dark. There is nothing between the two centres. (After just having another flat tire on Kim's bike, the kind that he fixes and then as he's putting air in you can hear leaking again, so he takes off and fixes again. Not to mention that we're back into swamp area with gators, snakes and now bear signs to boot. I'm really not prepared to have to camp in the middle of nowhere because it gets dark before we can make it to civilization!! Testy would be the polite terminology!). I told her to relax and then cycled well ahead of her to remove myself from the aura of anger.
East bound, we cycled on a quiet Hwy through heavy forest that at times resembled a jungle. At points the huge Live Oaks would stretch their branches across the Hwy so we could cycle through the tunnel they provided us. Meanwhile, Deby took up the rear watching for bear and alligators.
We ended our day after 95 miles, 152 kms. We cycled into a gorgeous campground 5 miles west of Perry. We arrived before dark (but just :) ) Princess had really stepped up to the plate. What a woman. (What a motivator fear is). We had pizza at a nearby gas station and the lady attendant gave us an enormous cantaloupe for the heck of it. Things always get better.
Rocky's Campground
Mileage: 152 km
Total mileage: 5,781 km
Bundled up this morning we continued east bound on Hwy 98. Along the coast we rode through Carrabellla and Lanark Village. Beautiful seaside homes and homes nestled into the stately trees as we rode. Clear skies, the cold front having pushed out the moist air.
Inland on Hwy 319 to Sopchoppy and then back to Hwy 98 through Medart and Newport. It was here that Princess got a little testy. Having put in quite a few miles already she was worried about making it another 41 miles to Perry before dark. There is nothing between the two centres. (After just having another flat tire on Kim's bike, the kind that he fixes and then as he's putting air in you can hear leaking again, so he takes off and fixes again. Not to mention that we're back into swamp area with gators, snakes and now bear signs to boot. I'm really not prepared to have to camp in the middle of nowhere because it gets dark before we can make it to civilization!! Testy would be the polite terminology!). I told her to relax and then cycled well ahead of her to remove myself from the aura of anger.
East bound, we cycled on a quiet Hwy through heavy forest that at times resembled a jungle. At points the huge Live Oaks would stretch their branches across the Hwy so we could cycle through the tunnel they provided us. Meanwhile, Deby took up the rear watching for bear and alligators.
We ended our day after 95 miles, 152 kms. We cycled into a gorgeous campground 5 miles west of Perry. We arrived before dark (but just :) ) Princess had really stepped up to the plate. What a woman. (What a motivator fear is). We had pizza at a nearby gas station and the lady attendant gave us an enormous cantaloupe for the heck of it. Things always get better.
Cold front
October 18th - Eastpoint, FL
Gulfview Campground
Mileage: 128 km
Total mileage: 5,629 km
Tonight we are staying in a rare find, a campground. Once plentiful they are now far and few between. One of the campers/tenants here told us that the owner of this campground just about had it sold for $4,000,000 when the hammer fell and the crash occurred. Thus, my suspicions were confirmed that the once plentiful campgrounds on this coast have all turned into condominiums. Oh well, all is well for tonight.
We are camped beside another 'Chong' just as we were back in Pagosa Springs. This one however, is much more amusing and entertaining. He told me of his shark fishing expeditions in the Gulf. He said that the sharks pull him around in his old kayak until they tire and then he pulls them to shore on the end of his line by paddling his boat in. Hard to believe, but another camper/tenant backed his stories. I think you would have to be high to do this kind of fishing, but only having known this 'Chong' for a short while, I think he is ready to do this kind of fishing at anytime. An airbrushed picture of 'Chong' fishing in his kayak would be a beautiful mural on a 1970 Ford Econoline Van.
Another tenant we met here seems to be dirt poor. When I asked him what he did for a living I could tell he was making up a job in his head to tell me of. He was concerned about us tenting in this Florida cold snap and gave us an electric heater to use in our tent. Funny how some of the people that have the least care the most.
Meanwhile 'Red Dog' roams this campground. A skinny hound that won't let anyone get near him. Chong told us that a hunter left him behind 2 years ago and although Red Dog won't come to them, they leave food out for him. Interesting place.
Cold front, today's daytime high was 64 degrees. The low tonight is supposed to be 42 degrees. We were all bundled up for riding. Strange, we never thought that we would be using the warm clothes we brought along in Florida. Supposed to be back into the 80's pretty quick though.
A fantastic ride today. Very scenic with light traffic. East bound we rode on Hwy 98 through the adjoining cities of Panama City, Cedar Grove, Springfield and Callaway. Then through a forested stretch to Mexico Beach. To Mexico Beach and beyond we had the road to ourselves. It seems that a lot of traffic must go north to the interstate from Panama City.
Mexico Beach is back on the coast and the ride was right along the beach through Beacon Hill and St. Joe Beach. The ride continued beach side to Port St. Joe and then inland through the trees to Apalachicola. Nice variety of riding all day long.
We saw signs today warning motorists to watch for bears crossing the roads. I had heard before that Florida has bear problems. I guess it's true. Princess was none to happy to learn from the guys at the campground that this area has the highest concentration of black bears in Florida. Maybe we will have to eat bear the next time we dine out just as we ate alligator back in New Orleans.
Over and out.
Gulfview Campground
Mileage: 128 km
Total mileage: 5,629 km
Tonight we are staying in a rare find, a campground. Once plentiful they are now far and few between. One of the campers/tenants here told us that the owner of this campground just about had it sold for $4,000,000 when the hammer fell and the crash occurred. Thus, my suspicions were confirmed that the once plentiful campgrounds on this coast have all turned into condominiums. Oh well, all is well for tonight.
We are camped beside another 'Chong' just as we were back in Pagosa Springs. This one however, is much more amusing and entertaining. He told me of his shark fishing expeditions in the Gulf. He said that the sharks pull him around in his old kayak until they tire and then he pulls them to shore on the end of his line by paddling his boat in. Hard to believe, but another camper/tenant backed his stories. I think you would have to be high to do this kind of fishing, but only having known this 'Chong' for a short while, I think he is ready to do this kind of fishing at anytime. An airbrushed picture of 'Chong' fishing in his kayak would be a beautiful mural on a 1970 Ford Econoline Van.
Another tenant we met here seems to be dirt poor. When I asked him what he did for a living I could tell he was making up a job in his head to tell me of. He was concerned about us tenting in this Florida cold snap and gave us an electric heater to use in our tent. Funny how some of the people that have the least care the most.
Meanwhile 'Red Dog' roams this campground. A skinny hound that won't let anyone get near him. Chong told us that a hunter left him behind 2 years ago and although Red Dog won't come to them, they leave food out for him. Interesting place.
Cold front, today's daytime high was 64 degrees. The low tonight is supposed to be 42 degrees. We were all bundled up for riding. Strange, we never thought that we would be using the warm clothes we brought along in Florida. Supposed to be back into the 80's pretty quick though.
A fantastic ride today. Very scenic with light traffic. East bound we rode on Hwy 98 through the adjoining cities of Panama City, Cedar Grove, Springfield and Callaway. Then through a forested stretch to Mexico Beach. To Mexico Beach and beyond we had the road to ourselves. It seems that a lot of traffic must go north to the interstate from Panama City.
Mexico Beach is back on the coast and the ride was right along the beach through Beacon Hill and St. Joe Beach. The ride continued beach side to Port St. Joe and then inland through the trees to Apalachicola. Nice variety of riding all day long.
We saw signs today warning motorists to watch for bears crossing the roads. I had heard before that Florida has bear problems. I guess it's true. Princess was none to happy to learn from the guys at the campground that this area has the highest concentration of black bears in Florida. Maybe we will have to eat bear the next time we dine out just as we ate alligator back in New Orleans.
Over and out.
Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort
October 15, 16, 17th
October 15th we spent the day between laying on the beach and the hotel Tiki Bar. On the beach when the sun shone and in the bar when the periodic showers came down. Deceived by the cool breeze off the Gulf we burnt our previously covered ivory white hides to a cinder. I guess that's why they have cases of sunscreen for sale in the hotel. (What's worse is that I've packed around a big jug of it in my front pannier for miles and left it in the room instead of using it on our bods!!) Rather than using aloe vera to sooth the pain we used Margarita's and found that they work better.
October 16th we visited the public library and caught up on the blog. On the way back to the hotel we dropped in at "Emma's Too" a small restaurant and had a great lunch. At the restaurant we met with two new friends, Greg and Detra Callahan. Crazy, but almost what I thought to be a mirror image of Deby and I. Greg and Detra were very close to the same age, had two kids the same ages as our two boys, and had just relocated to Panama City Beach from Denver just as Deby and I had relocated from Saskatoon to Grand Forks. Greg had recently retired from his 22 year career with the Federal Prison system just as I had recently retired from the Saskatoon Police Service. Detra had a part time job, just as Deby is going to get a part time job (in his dreams!!). It was uncanny.
We had a long and enjoyable conversation with Greg and Detra and then went on our way. Greg said he would be by our hotel later and take us to a bike shop to get some parts that we required. We ended up having a nice afternoon together. Greg not only gave us a ride to the bike shop, but also gave us a tour of Hwy 30A that we had missed yesterday. It truly was a beautiful drive through beach side communities of Seaside and Grayton Beach (There are many more beach side communities than just Seaside and Grayton, each having it's own distinct architecture, but we can't remember all the names). If you remember the Jim Carey movie "The Truman Show," it was shot in one of these communities.
Greg said to us at one point, that for him, something was going to come from meeting us and that in all likelihood, Detra was going to have to pay for it. We all laughed.
October 17th I did bicycle maintenance in the morning. Had to oil and work the brakes on the bikes due to salt corrosion. The salt in the air while riding around the Gulf has been a little tough on the metal parts which come into contact with each other.
In the afternoon Greg took us for a tour of Panama City along the coastal drive. Stately old houses and marinas full of beautiful boats. Thanks Greg and Detra for the company, the conversation, the information and the mini immersion into the area. Look forward to seeing you again sometime.
Tomorrow we ride!
October 15th we spent the day between laying on the beach and the hotel Tiki Bar. On the beach when the sun shone and in the bar when the periodic showers came down. Deceived by the cool breeze off the Gulf we burnt our previously covered ivory white hides to a cinder. I guess that's why they have cases of sunscreen for sale in the hotel. (What's worse is that I've packed around a big jug of it in my front pannier for miles and left it in the room instead of using it on our bods!!) Rather than using aloe vera to sooth the pain we used Margarita's and found that they work better.
October 16th we visited the public library and caught up on the blog. On the way back to the hotel we dropped in at "Emma's Too" a small restaurant and had a great lunch. At the restaurant we met with two new friends, Greg and Detra Callahan. Crazy, but almost what I thought to be a mirror image of Deby and I. Greg and Detra were very close to the same age, had two kids the same ages as our two boys, and had just relocated to Panama City Beach from Denver just as Deby and I had relocated from Saskatoon to Grand Forks. Greg had recently retired from his 22 year career with the Federal Prison system just as I had recently retired from the Saskatoon Police Service. Detra had a part time job, just as Deby is going to get a part time job (in his dreams!!). It was uncanny.
We had a long and enjoyable conversation with Greg and Detra and then went on our way. Greg said he would be by our hotel later and take us to a bike shop to get some parts that we required. We ended up having a nice afternoon together. Greg not only gave us a ride to the bike shop, but also gave us a tour of Hwy 30A that we had missed yesterday. It truly was a beautiful drive through beach side communities of Seaside and Grayton Beach (There are many more beach side communities than just Seaside and Grayton, each having it's own distinct architecture, but we can't remember all the names). If you remember the Jim Carey movie "The Truman Show," it was shot in one of these communities.
Greg said to us at one point, that for him, something was going to come from meeting us and that in all likelihood, Detra was going to have to pay for it. We all laughed.
October 17th I did bicycle maintenance in the morning. Had to oil and work the brakes on the bikes due to salt corrosion. The salt in the air while riding around the Gulf has been a little tough on the metal parts which come into contact with each other.
In the afternoon Greg took us for a tour of Panama City along the coastal drive. Stately old houses and marinas full of beautiful boats. Thanks Greg and Detra for the company, the conversation, the information and the mini immersion into the area. Look forward to seeing you again sometime.
Tomorrow we ride!
Friday, October 16, 2009
White sand beaches
October 14th/09 - Panama City Beach, Florida
Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort
Mileage: 90 km
Total mileage: 5501 km
Tonight we are staying at the Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort in Panama City Beach. Not only tonight, but also October 15th, 16th and 17th. We couldn't handle just riding along the white sand beaches and emerald seas any longer.
It all started today when we stopped for a break at Inlet Beach. We had been cycling inland for a while and met a local who told us that we had missed the best beaches in Florida by not cycling further south along Hwy 30A. He was very insistent that we turn back and cover that stretch. Well, it is very difficult for a cyclist to make a u-turn and undue mileage gained, so with some guilt we continued on east bound hoping he wouldn't see us.
Still feeling guilty we attempted to resolve the situation and took the scenic byway at Panama City Beach. It was here that we surrendered to the ocean and decided to stay a few days at the resort. The staff extended our stay by giving us 4 nights for the price of 3. $79 nightly, off season rates. We plan to drink margaritas, lay on the beach and do some carb loading.
We left Fort Walton Beach this morning and cycled east through Destin. Traffic lights and lots of vehicles, but still new and interesting country to us.
In Destin a fella named Dan pulled over in his vehicle and flagged us in. He was very interested in where we had come from and where we were going. (Turns out he grew up in Winnipeg and moved here when he was 18). He was very impressed and said that he loved to see people doing what we were doing. So impressed that he insisted we take $20 to have lunch on him. Lunch cost us $14 and Deby got her $6 spending money for the week. All kinds of cool people in the world.
Beyond Destin the traffic thinned out. We cycled through pine forest and away from civilization for a short time until reaching Inlet Beach where we got our lesson on what we were missing which led to our stay at the beach.
Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort
Mileage: 90 km
Total mileage: 5501 km
Tonight we are staying at the Sandpiper Beacon Beach Resort in Panama City Beach. Not only tonight, but also October 15th, 16th and 17th. We couldn't handle just riding along the white sand beaches and emerald seas any longer.
It all started today when we stopped for a break at Inlet Beach. We had been cycling inland for a while and met a local who told us that we had missed the best beaches in Florida by not cycling further south along Hwy 30A. He was very insistent that we turn back and cover that stretch. Well, it is very difficult for a cyclist to make a u-turn and undue mileage gained, so with some guilt we continued on east bound hoping he wouldn't see us.
Still feeling guilty we attempted to resolve the situation and took the scenic byway at Panama City Beach. It was here that we surrendered to the ocean and decided to stay a few days at the resort. The staff extended our stay by giving us 4 nights for the price of 3. $79 nightly, off season rates. We plan to drink margaritas, lay on the beach and do some carb loading.
We left Fort Walton Beach this morning and cycled east through Destin. Traffic lights and lots of vehicles, but still new and interesting country to us.
In Destin a fella named Dan pulled over in his vehicle and flagged us in. He was very interested in where we had come from and where we were going. (Turns out he grew up in Winnipeg and moved here when he was 18). He was very impressed and said that he loved to see people doing what we were doing. So impressed that he insisted we take $20 to have lunch on him. Lunch cost us $14 and Deby got her $6 spending money for the week. All kinds of cool people in the world.
Beyond Destin the traffic thinned out. We cycled through pine forest and away from civilization for a short time until reaching Inlet Beach where we got our lesson on what we were missing which led to our stay at the beach.
We are we?
October 13th/09 - Fort Walton Beach, Florida
Marina Bay Resort
Mileage: 112.2 km
Total mileage: 5,411 km
Pulled on our wet socks, wet cycling shorts and wet shirts, packed up the rest of our wet stuff and off we went. Overcast day, temperatures eventually reaching 80 degrees. Nice day for cycling.
Travelled through Orange Beach and on to Perdido Key. It was on Perdido Key that we crossed the Florida State line. Running for home plate now, but it will still take a while to get to Key West. Florida is a big state.
Again, park like riding to Pensacola, but beyond there it got busy with traffic. We continued east bound, Hwy 98 being right on the coast now. The color of the ocean has changed now to crystal clear and emerald green.
Difficult to know where you are here. The small towns are continuously adjacent to each other without separation. I find that you have to look for the water towers sometimes to know exactly where you are. Lots to look at though, and it makes the cycling interesting. I'm sure it won't take long though before we are longing for the open road rather than traffic lights.
Raining again at the end of the day, so we are at a beautiful hotel right on the ocean. Unbelievable off season rate of $45.99 a night. Drying everything we have in the hotel laundry. This certainly is the rainy season here.
Marina Bay Resort
Mileage: 112.2 km
Total mileage: 5,411 km
Pulled on our wet socks, wet cycling shorts and wet shirts, packed up the rest of our wet stuff and off we went. Overcast day, temperatures eventually reaching 80 degrees. Nice day for cycling.
Travelled through Orange Beach and on to Perdido Key. It was on Perdido Key that we crossed the Florida State line. Running for home plate now, but it will still take a while to get to Key West. Florida is a big state.
Again, park like riding to Pensacola, but beyond there it got busy with traffic. We continued east bound, Hwy 98 being right on the coast now. The color of the ocean has changed now to crystal clear and emerald green.
Difficult to know where you are here. The small towns are continuously adjacent to each other without separation. I find that you have to look for the water towers sometimes to know exactly where you are. Lots to look at though, and it makes the cycling interesting. I'm sure it won't take long though before we are longing for the open road rather than traffic lights.
Raining again at the end of the day, so we are at a beautiful hotel right on the ocean. Unbelievable off season rate of $45.99 a night. Drying everything we have in the hotel laundry. This certainly is the rainy season here.
Scenic tour
October 12th/09 - Gulf Shores, Alabama
Gulf State Park
Mileage: 92.7 km
Total mileage: 5,298
We left Tillmans Corner this morning travelling due south on Hwy 193. We wanted to see Dauphin Island and then take the ferry across Mobile Bay to Fort Morgan. The road was lightly travelled and very picturesque through treed communities. Big, long causeway and bridge to Dauphin Island.
Dauphin Island itself is very impressive. Quaint, well treed and big unique homes. Large marina with expensive boats. Lots of money here.
The ferry to Fort Morgan took approximately 45 minutes. Didn't see any dolphins this trip but got a close look at lots of offshore oil rig platforms. Very interesting. I had no idea that there was so much drilling in the Gulf of Mexico.
At times today, it almost looked like we were riding through a rain forest. Thick pines with Live Oak trees and tropical underbrush. Very park like.
From Fort Morgan we travelled to Gulf Shores and the State Park campground. The sign upon entering the camping area of the park reads, "Do not feed or aggravate the alligators." I couldn't help but wonder what kind of half wits they had to put a sign like this up for. Probably the half wits that end up leaving the park with only one arm.
After setting up the tent we headed to the local store for groceries. Walking out with our bags the rains began. We attempted to wait out the rain under some shelter because the rain showers typically don't last long. This however, was not a typical shower and it only came down heavier as we waited. We peddled the three miles back and were more soaked than soaked when we arrived back at the campground.
Not to be defeated, we moved the tent from the hole we had set it up in, to higher ground. Then, looking forward to a hot supper we found a small sheltered area under the overhanging roof of one of the campground buildings. The kitchen was set out and 'click, click, click' with the lighter - my trusty little Coleman stove decided its life was over. Cold slab of ham, cold creamed corn and off to bed. Oh well, things always get better.
Gulf State Park
Mileage: 92.7 km
Total mileage: 5,298
We left Tillmans Corner this morning travelling due south on Hwy 193. We wanted to see Dauphin Island and then take the ferry across Mobile Bay to Fort Morgan. The road was lightly travelled and very picturesque through treed communities. Big, long causeway and bridge to Dauphin Island.
Dauphin Island itself is very impressive. Quaint, well treed and big unique homes. Large marina with expensive boats. Lots of money here.
The ferry to Fort Morgan took approximately 45 minutes. Didn't see any dolphins this trip but got a close look at lots of offshore oil rig platforms. Very interesting. I had no idea that there was so much drilling in the Gulf of Mexico.
At times today, it almost looked like we were riding through a rain forest. Thick pines with Live Oak trees and tropical underbrush. Very park like.
From Fort Morgan we travelled to Gulf Shores and the State Park campground. The sign upon entering the camping area of the park reads, "Do not feed or aggravate the alligators." I couldn't help but wonder what kind of half wits they had to put a sign like this up for. Probably the half wits that end up leaving the park with only one arm.
After setting up the tent we headed to the local store for groceries. Walking out with our bags the rains began. We attempted to wait out the rain under some shelter because the rain showers typically don't last long. This however, was not a typical shower and it only came down heavier as we waited. We peddled the three miles back and were more soaked than soaked when we arrived back at the campground.
Not to be defeated, we moved the tent from the hole we had set it up in, to higher ground. Then, looking forward to a hot supper we found a small sheltered area under the overhanging roof of one of the campground buildings. The kitchen was set out and 'click, click, click' with the lighter - my trusty little Coleman stove decided its life was over. Cold slab of ham, cold creamed corn and off to bed. Oh well, things always get better.
Charades
October 11th/09 - Tillmans Corner, Alabama
Baymont Hotel
Mileage: 102.5 km
Total mileage: 5,206 km
Staying at the Baymont Hotel tonight in Tillmans Corner just south of Mobile, Alabama. We attempted to find a campground, but couldn't. I knew we were going to have a problem when I had to play charades with a gas station attendant to try and make him understand what a campground was. A light seemed to go on in the non-english speaking attendant's head and he pointed down the road saying, "Several, several." We continued on in the direction of his finger with some hesitation. What I didn't realize until later was that I had mentioned the word RV during our game. We ended up passing 'several' trailer sales outfits, but no campground. Darkness encroached and we found refuge in this hotel.
Leaving Gulfport this morning we continued east on Hwy 90 through more beautiful beach country. Through Biloxi and then Ocean Springs.
We crossed several long, high bridges which can be treacherous on a bicycle, but Mississippi has thought well enough to incorporate pedestrian/bicycle lanes on theirs. Not like Louisiana, and in particular New Orleans. In New Orleans a cyclist/pedestrian is not even allowed to cross any of their bridges. Shame, shame!
Twenty six years ago when I cycled this trip I did defy this bylaw. I cycled over the worst of the worst of their bridges. Not naively either. I knew I wasn't allowed, but I was a rebellious youth. Up, up and up the bridge I peddled totally blocking one of the two north bound lanes. Horns blew and motorists screamed 'woe to you'. A car load of black guys cruised up beside me in the left lane. They had a different attitude. Now, we are all brothers, but at that time, on that date, the bunch of us became closer than close. They were so happy to see a civilly disobedient white guy for a change that it was all high fives, thumbs up, and hollers of encouragement. I flew down the mountainous bridge ecstatic. The New Orleans police officer at the bottom wasn't quite as impressed.
Back to the present. Deby and I cycled from Ocean Springs through the pines to Gautier. From here, across a long bridge to Pascagoula. Again, back into the pines to the Alabama
State line. Traffic steadily decreased as we continued east, motorists at this point choosing to take the interstate.
In Alabama the geography changed again. We began to peddle up and down grades which we hadn't done for quite some time. Almost made us feel like we were out of shape. I couldn't help but think how the property values must increase at the top of a small hill. Every foot of elevation above sea level here must have a high value attached to it.
The road through Theodore and finally Tillmans Corner was lightly travelled, windy and very scenic.
Baymont Hotel
Mileage: 102.5 km
Total mileage: 5,206 km
Staying at the Baymont Hotel tonight in Tillmans Corner just south of Mobile, Alabama. We attempted to find a campground, but couldn't. I knew we were going to have a problem when I had to play charades with a gas station attendant to try and make him understand what a campground was. A light seemed to go on in the non-english speaking attendant's head and he pointed down the road saying, "Several, several." We continued on in the direction of his finger with some hesitation. What I didn't realize until later was that I had mentioned the word RV during our game. We ended up passing 'several' trailer sales outfits, but no campground. Darkness encroached and we found refuge in this hotel.
Leaving Gulfport this morning we continued east on Hwy 90 through more beautiful beach country. Through Biloxi and then Ocean Springs.
We crossed several long, high bridges which can be treacherous on a bicycle, but Mississippi has thought well enough to incorporate pedestrian/bicycle lanes on theirs. Not like Louisiana, and in particular New Orleans. In New Orleans a cyclist/pedestrian is not even allowed to cross any of their bridges. Shame, shame!
Twenty six years ago when I cycled this trip I did defy this bylaw. I cycled over the worst of the worst of their bridges. Not naively either. I knew I wasn't allowed, but I was a rebellious youth. Up, up and up the bridge I peddled totally blocking one of the two north bound lanes. Horns blew and motorists screamed 'woe to you'. A car load of black guys cruised up beside me in the left lane. They had a different attitude. Now, we are all brothers, but at that time, on that date, the bunch of us became closer than close. They were so happy to see a civilly disobedient white guy for a change that it was all high fives, thumbs up, and hollers of encouragement. I flew down the mountainous bridge ecstatic. The New Orleans police officer at the bottom wasn't quite as impressed.
Back to the present. Deby and I cycled from Ocean Springs through the pines to Gautier. From here, across a long bridge to Pascagoula. Again, back into the pines to the Alabama
State line. Traffic steadily decreased as we continued east, motorists at this point choosing to take the interstate.
In Alabama the geography changed again. We began to peddle up and down grades which we hadn't done for quite some time. Almost made us feel like we were out of shape. I couldn't help but think how the property values must increase at the top of a small hill. Every foot of elevation above sea level here must have a high value attached to it.
The road through Theodore and finally Tillmans Corner was lightly travelled, windy and very scenic.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Pines
October 10th/09 - Gulfport, Mississippi
Gulf Haven Campground
Mileage: 127.6 km
Total mileage: 5,104 km
It took us a while this morning to get out of New Orleans. As you go east the city becomes more sparse and rural, but it goes on forever.
Bayou country almost all the way to the Mississippi State line. Just before entering Mississippi the geography changed though. Solid ground finally appears and with the exception of the odd bayou, the country turns into pine forests. So much so that there is logging in the area and tree planting indicates the different ages of the forest.
We peddled on with both sides of the road lined with pines until we reached the Bay of St. Louis. At the Bay of St. Louis, Hwy 90 comes back to the Gulf. Here we followed the beach through Christian Pass, Long Beach, and finally Gulfport where we spent the night.
Who would have thought that Mississippi is a beach goers paradise. The sea here is aqua blue and the white sands go on forever. Across the Hwy from the beach are majestic old homes with towering trees and large manicured yards.
This area was not spared from last years hurricanes though. A local told us that all the empty lots had beautiful houses on them before the storms and there are a lot of empty lots.
Tonight we are camped in the Gulf Haven Campground. Very nice place. One of Long Beach's finest, Tom, told us how to find it. Again, camping is limited in the area. Can't understand it.
Great cycling day. A cold front moved in and the temperature was 75 to 80 degrees. Hard to believe, but that temperature is getting a little chilly for us now. Had to put on a jacket as soon as we stopped for the day.
Deby had a flat tire caused by a shard of metal. I had a flat caused by who knows what. The flats slowed down our progress a bit today.
Gulf Haven Campground
Mileage: 127.6 km
Total mileage: 5,104 km
It took us a while this morning to get out of New Orleans. As you go east the city becomes more sparse and rural, but it goes on forever.
Bayou country almost all the way to the Mississippi State line. Just before entering Mississippi the geography changed though. Solid ground finally appears and with the exception of the odd bayou, the country turns into pine forests. So much so that there is logging in the area and tree planting indicates the different ages of the forest.
We peddled on with both sides of the road lined with pines until we reached the Bay of St. Louis. At the Bay of St. Louis, Hwy 90 comes back to the Gulf. Here we followed the beach through Christian Pass, Long Beach, and finally Gulfport where we spent the night.
Who would have thought that Mississippi is a beach goers paradise. The sea here is aqua blue and the white sands go on forever. Across the Hwy from the beach are majestic old homes with towering trees and large manicured yards.
This area was not spared from last years hurricanes though. A local told us that all the empty lots had beautiful houses on them before the storms and there are a lot of empty lots.
Tonight we are camped in the Gulf Haven Campground. Very nice place. One of Long Beach's finest, Tom, told us how to find it. Again, camping is limited in the area. Can't understand it.
Great cycling day. A cold front moved in and the temperature was 75 to 80 degrees. Hard to believe, but that temperature is getting a little chilly for us now. Had to put on a jacket as soon as we stopped for the day.
Deby had a flat tire caused by a shard of metal. I had a flat caused by who knows what. The flats slowed down our progress a bit today.
Sight seeing
October 9th/09 - New Orleans, LA
Royal Hotel, French Quarter
Hopped on a street car and went to Washington Street and hiked to Magazine Street. Magazine Street is out of the tourist area and more typically the New Orleans life style. Interesting shops etc. Deby loved it.
The street car ride and the hike through the neighborhoods was really interesting. The architecture and the old, old houses were jaw dropping. This whole city is old and bylaws prevent radical changes. Every residence had a history.
Later in the day we took a bus tour. The tour guide spoke Louisianian, but I caught half of it. Deby caught the rest. Amazing place. It would be nice to rent a pad here for a month and tour every day. You just can't grasp it all in a stop over.
One of the areas we toured is one of the most prestigious areas in the US. Of course we looked at it from the outside. No one is allowed down the gated street unless they live on it. Huge old mansions, so prestigious in fact that the guide said if someone decides to sell their house the neighbors buy it so that they can decide who the next resident will be.
We also toured the 9th ward, the area that was so badly flooded by Katrina. Brad Pitt, sexual orientation unknown as I think Angelina is probably just a front, is building new houses there. Despite his humanitarian efforts, the victims of the flood are not moving back. Would you? Having sat in the heat on your roof top for two days thinking that you were going to be swept out to the Gulf of Mexico at any time! Good luck! We were amazed to see that the levees were only 18" concrete walls and the expectation was that they would hold back the ocean.
I think that it is crazy to rebuild anything there again and that Brad Pitt should be building those people houses on higher ground if he is so inclined. The tour guide was thoughtful enough not to give Brad Pitt all of the credit for his generosity. He said that he is working with a Canadian, last name of Holmes, and said that Brad Pitt is the name, but Holmes was the soul behind the houses being built. He also pointed out that other groups such as Habitat for Humanity, Jimmy Carter, Mennonite Disaster Relief and several other church groups are also building houses as well.
Since Katrina the population of New Orleans has dropped from approximately 500,000 to 250,000. A census still has to be completed. 1,800 people died in the flood. The crime rate has apparently skyrocketed and they still have lots of problems to conquer. I haven't seen a cop in this city who looks happy. I think they are all worn out.
Royal Hotel, French Quarter
Hopped on a street car and went to Washington Street and hiked to Magazine Street. Magazine Street is out of the tourist area and more typically the New Orleans life style. Interesting shops etc. Deby loved it.
The street car ride and the hike through the neighborhoods was really interesting. The architecture and the old, old houses were jaw dropping. This whole city is old and bylaws prevent radical changes. Every residence had a history.
Later in the day we took a bus tour. The tour guide spoke Louisianian, but I caught half of it. Deby caught the rest. Amazing place. It would be nice to rent a pad here for a month and tour every day. You just can't grasp it all in a stop over.
One of the areas we toured is one of the most prestigious areas in the US. Of course we looked at it from the outside. No one is allowed down the gated street unless they live on it. Huge old mansions, so prestigious in fact that the guide said if someone decides to sell their house the neighbors buy it so that they can decide who the next resident will be.
We also toured the 9th ward, the area that was so badly flooded by Katrina. Brad Pitt, sexual orientation unknown as I think Angelina is probably just a front, is building new houses there. Despite his humanitarian efforts, the victims of the flood are not moving back. Would you? Having sat in the heat on your roof top for two days thinking that you were going to be swept out to the Gulf of Mexico at any time! Good luck! We were amazed to see that the levees were only 18" concrete walls and the expectation was that they would hold back the ocean.
I think that it is crazy to rebuild anything there again and that Brad Pitt should be building those people houses on higher ground if he is so inclined. The tour guide was thoughtful enough not to give Brad Pitt all of the credit for his generosity. He said that he is working with a Canadian, last name of Holmes, and said that Brad Pitt is the name, but Holmes was the soul behind the houses being built. He also pointed out that other groups such as Habitat for Humanity, Jimmy Carter, Mennonite Disaster Relief and several other church groups are also building houses as well.
Since Katrina the population of New Orleans has dropped from approximately 500,000 to 250,000. A census still has to be completed. 1,800 people died in the flood. The crime rate has apparently skyrocketed and they still have lots of problems to conquer. I haven't seen a cop in this city who looks happy. I think they are all worn out.
Mud wrestling
October 8th/09 - New Orleans, LA
Royal Hotel, French Quarter
Mileage: 79.3 km
Total mileage: 4,976 km
Started out east bound on Hwy 90. Busy with traffic, but no choice in the matter, closing in on New Orleans.
Looking at the scenery I narrowly missed an alligator on the shoulder of the road. Deby, behind me, didn't notice him until the last second either. Just a bit startling. Lucky enough he was dead having been hit earlier by a vehicle. Have to look further down the road in the future. I guess the suckers really do come out of the ditch once in a while. It made us angry with ourselves for not having seen him earlier. So angry in fact that later, in New Orleans we ate alligator to prove our dominance over the beasts. Tastes sort of like pork, except you have to spit the teeth out.
We continued on. Traffic increased and so did the communities. Typical of nearing a large centre.
At one point during the day, I slammed on my brakes hoping to slow enough for a large ridge of broken pavement in front of me. Deby, riding right behind me swerved hard right to avoid collision. She managed well and instead of hitting me chose a large mud hole at the side of the road. What a trooper. The old girl went down hard. Witnessing the horrendous impact out of the corner of my eye, I worried for the bike. However, we adjusted the gear and everything was OK. Deby on the other hand, looked like a mud wrestler and kind of turned me on. She recovered and kept her distance for the rest of the day. I'm glad she drinks her milk.
Peddling through New Orleans was quite a treat. Motorists here honestly have no idea of what a cyclist is. Neither of us at any point on this trip have had cars pass us in such close proximity. Finally we decided to ride further out in the lane so the oblivious 4 wheelers had no choice by to go around us. They didn't like it, but we were safer and it worked.
We caught the Gretna Ferry and crossed the Mississippi. Beautiful river tour of the city. On board we met with two commuter cyclists and they were gracious enough to take us to a nice hotel in the historic French Quarter. We rode through the city together and said our farewells at the Royal Hotel. Thanks Ken and Dina.
The Royal Hotel doesn't mean expensive, it means old. Probably approaching 200 years old. Fascinating place. I am writing this blog from a sheltered area in the small court yard as the rain is pounding down. We don't know much of it's history, but it was first built as a residence, and then at one point became a washateria before becoming a hotel.
I have to make a point of reading up on New Orleans history. As Canadians we should feel more comfortable here than we know because the Cajuns who got the boot from Canada were a big part in its early development.
We spent the evening walking Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. Too many Hurricanes. Deby got more beads than any of the other girls. (That's the too many Hurricanes talking since Deby only got beads in his dreams).
Royal Hotel, French Quarter
Mileage: 79.3 km
Total mileage: 4,976 km
Started out east bound on Hwy 90. Busy with traffic, but no choice in the matter, closing in on New Orleans.
Looking at the scenery I narrowly missed an alligator on the shoulder of the road. Deby, behind me, didn't notice him until the last second either. Just a bit startling. Lucky enough he was dead having been hit earlier by a vehicle. Have to look further down the road in the future. I guess the suckers really do come out of the ditch once in a while. It made us angry with ourselves for not having seen him earlier. So angry in fact that later, in New Orleans we ate alligator to prove our dominance over the beasts. Tastes sort of like pork, except you have to spit the teeth out.
We continued on. Traffic increased and so did the communities. Typical of nearing a large centre.
At one point during the day, I slammed on my brakes hoping to slow enough for a large ridge of broken pavement in front of me. Deby, riding right behind me swerved hard right to avoid collision. She managed well and instead of hitting me chose a large mud hole at the side of the road. What a trooper. The old girl went down hard. Witnessing the horrendous impact out of the corner of my eye, I worried for the bike. However, we adjusted the gear and everything was OK. Deby on the other hand, looked like a mud wrestler and kind of turned me on. She recovered and kept her distance for the rest of the day. I'm glad she drinks her milk.
Peddling through New Orleans was quite a treat. Motorists here honestly have no idea of what a cyclist is. Neither of us at any point on this trip have had cars pass us in such close proximity. Finally we decided to ride further out in the lane so the oblivious 4 wheelers had no choice by to go around us. They didn't like it, but we were safer and it worked.
We caught the Gretna Ferry and crossed the Mississippi. Beautiful river tour of the city. On board we met with two commuter cyclists and they were gracious enough to take us to a nice hotel in the historic French Quarter. We rode through the city together and said our farewells at the Royal Hotel. Thanks Ken and Dina.
The Royal Hotel doesn't mean expensive, it means old. Probably approaching 200 years old. Fascinating place. I am writing this blog from a sheltered area in the small court yard as the rain is pounding down. We don't know much of it's history, but it was first built as a residence, and then at one point became a washateria before becoming a hotel.
I have to make a point of reading up on New Orleans history. As Canadians we should feel more comfortable here than we know because the Cajuns who got the boot from Canada were a big part in its early development.
We spent the evening walking Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. Too many Hurricanes. Deby got more beads than any of the other girls. (That's the too many Hurricanes talking since Deby only got beads in his dreams).
Sugar Cane
October 7/09 - Gray, Louisiana
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 117 km
Total mileage: 4,897 km
Took the old Hwy east from New Iberia this morning, Hwy 182. Wanted to stay off of Hwy 90 as long as we could. Hwy 90 is a state Hwy, but might as well be an interstate for all the traffic. Hwy 182 was very scenic. It passed through all the small towns and gave us more of a feel for the country.
Sugar cane galore. The hwy was lined with it. The harvest is just beginning and tractors pulling buggies and semi trailers were full to the brim. We travelled through Louisiana plantation country and viewed many classic roadside mansions and estates dating back to the early 1800's. Enormous homes with park like yards and probably some dark histories.
We were forced back onto Hwy 90 just west of Morgan City and continued east bound. Wide enough shoulders, but busy with fast traffic. A bit of a shock as most of the travelling we have done thus far has been on peaceful lightly travelled roads. Lots of honking horns. Most honks are for encouragement and approval, other honks are from motorists who just plainly dislike cyclists. You learn the difference. I wave frantically at all the honkers hoping that they think I think that they recognized me. It must pick off the malicious ones which is my only satisfaction.
Hwy 90 is not scenic. It takes too much concentration. You have to get off on the side roads to be immersed in the country side.
We pulled off into the community of Donner for refreshments. Here we became celebrities. The people at the Community Centre couldn't believe what we were doing. One of the ladies said that you hear of people like us on the radio and see people like us on TV shows, but you never think that you will meet them in person. I tried to explain that in the cycling world this was no big deal, but to no avail. The rest of the people chanted praise to us, but most of it was in deep Louisianian and I couldn't understand much. I think that Deby caught more. I did understand though, that they were going to pray for us and that is always a good feeling.
We stayed at a hotel in Gray, not because we didn't want to camp, but campgrounds are getting increasingly difficult to find around here. They're not difficult to find if your a motorist, but if you're a cyclist at the end of your day and someone tells you that there is a campground just 30 miles down the road, it just doesn't work.
Anyway, we had a nice conversation with a guy at the hotel. He was from Florida and due to the recession was in Louisiana trying to find a job on an off shore drilling rig. Louisiana is the off shore drilling mecca. He gave us some good pointers on gators and snakes. One rule of thumb, he said, is that if there is water there is gators. Good advice to heed, but a little bit concerning. Louisiana is all water. Secondly, he told us if you are walking in the bush to step on top of the logs and leap from them rather than just stepping over them. Snakes enjoy being under a log and could be startled and bite someone simply stepping over. He brought his camping gear, but was hesitant to camp in Louisiana because of the lack of solid ground. A real nice guy...I hope he finds the job he is looking for and wish him well.
Talked with Scott the next morning. Scott is a biochemistry professor in Shreveport. Scott told us some very interesting information about Louisiana and in particular, the area we had travelled. Information that you just don't get from a tourist brochure. Thank-you Scott!
Best Western Hotel
Mileage: 117 km
Total mileage: 4,897 km
Took the old Hwy east from New Iberia this morning, Hwy 182. Wanted to stay off of Hwy 90 as long as we could. Hwy 90 is a state Hwy, but might as well be an interstate for all the traffic. Hwy 182 was very scenic. It passed through all the small towns and gave us more of a feel for the country.
Sugar cane galore. The hwy was lined with it. The harvest is just beginning and tractors pulling buggies and semi trailers were full to the brim. We travelled through Louisiana plantation country and viewed many classic roadside mansions and estates dating back to the early 1800's. Enormous homes with park like yards and probably some dark histories.
We were forced back onto Hwy 90 just west of Morgan City and continued east bound. Wide enough shoulders, but busy with fast traffic. A bit of a shock as most of the travelling we have done thus far has been on peaceful lightly travelled roads. Lots of honking horns. Most honks are for encouragement and approval, other honks are from motorists who just plainly dislike cyclists. You learn the difference. I wave frantically at all the honkers hoping that they think I think that they recognized me. It must pick off the malicious ones which is my only satisfaction.
Hwy 90 is not scenic. It takes too much concentration. You have to get off on the side roads to be immersed in the country side.
We pulled off into the community of Donner for refreshments. Here we became celebrities. The people at the Community Centre couldn't believe what we were doing. One of the ladies said that you hear of people like us on the radio and see people like us on TV shows, but you never think that you will meet them in person. I tried to explain that in the cycling world this was no big deal, but to no avail. The rest of the people chanted praise to us, but most of it was in deep Louisianian and I couldn't understand much. I think that Deby caught more. I did understand though, that they were going to pray for us and that is always a good feeling.
We stayed at a hotel in Gray, not because we didn't want to camp, but campgrounds are getting increasingly difficult to find around here. They're not difficult to find if your a motorist, but if you're a cyclist at the end of your day and someone tells you that there is a campground just 30 miles down the road, it just doesn't work.
Anyway, we had a nice conversation with a guy at the hotel. He was from Florida and due to the recession was in Louisiana trying to find a job on an off shore drilling rig. Louisiana is the off shore drilling mecca. He gave us some good pointers on gators and snakes. One rule of thumb, he said, is that if there is water there is gators. Good advice to heed, but a little bit concerning. Louisiana is all water. Secondly, he told us if you are walking in the bush to step on top of the logs and leap from them rather than just stepping over them. Snakes enjoy being under a log and could be startled and bite someone simply stepping over. He brought his camping gear, but was hesitant to camp in Louisiana because of the lack of solid ground. A real nice guy...I hope he finds the job he is looking for and wish him well.
Talked with Scott the next morning. Scott is a biochemistry professor in Shreveport. Scott told us some very interesting information about Louisiana and in particular, the area we had travelled. Information that you just don't get from a tourist brochure. Thank-you Scott!
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Alligator nests
October 6th/09 - New Iberia, Louisiana
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 94 km
Total mileage: 4,780 km
Woke up this morning hardly having slept all night. The heat and humidity in the tent last night was almost unbearable. The inside of the tent dripped and Deby and I wiped sweat off our faces with our towels all night. Morning couldn't have come quick enough. High temperatures had remained through the night with not even a breeze.
Talked with some contractors this morning. They told us to watch out where we put up our tent. They said that the gators are very territorial and you don't want to be close to a nest. Why doesn't someone put up signs for dumb tourists. Anyway, the only bites we got were mosquitoes. They swarm in clouds here.
On our route today, they was also a private alligator hatchery. We were told that the nests are spotted from helicopters, a flag is dropped on to them and they are marked with GPS. Later the eggs are taken from the nests and incubated in the barns. The alligators are fed and cared for over winter and then butchered for meat, hide and heads. 14% of the gators are tagged and put back into the wild. I imagine that this is a greater percentage than would have survived naturally. Sounds like good management...everybody wins.
Peddling north we continued through the swamp for the next couple of hours. Then the trees appeared as the land started to solid up. Ranches and farm land with the exception of a small area near Esther where it looked like Everglades. An intriguing forest of pines appeared with water throughout the underbrush. Rather unique in the area.
Near Abbeville and east to New Iberia it was all rice and sugar cane. The sugar cane was impressive, growing as thick as a corn field and 8 to 10 feet high. I mistook sugar cane for corn in Texas. When sugar cane is young it looks similar.
A local told us the rice fields are flooded for the crop and then after harvest crawfish are put in the field. The crawfish eat the rice straw and are harvested when they mature. Ultimate efficiency.
Holiday Inn Express
Mileage: 94 km
Total mileage: 4,780 km
Woke up this morning hardly having slept all night. The heat and humidity in the tent last night was almost unbearable. The inside of the tent dripped and Deby and I wiped sweat off our faces with our towels all night. Morning couldn't have come quick enough. High temperatures had remained through the night with not even a breeze.
Talked with some contractors this morning. They told us to watch out where we put up our tent. They said that the gators are very territorial and you don't want to be close to a nest. Why doesn't someone put up signs for dumb tourists. Anyway, the only bites we got were mosquitoes. They swarm in clouds here.
On our route today, they was also a private alligator hatchery. We were told that the nests are spotted from helicopters, a flag is dropped on to them and they are marked with GPS. Later the eggs are taken from the nests and incubated in the barns. The alligators are fed and cared for over winter and then butchered for meat, hide and heads. 14% of the gators are tagged and put back into the wild. I imagine that this is a greater percentage than would have survived naturally. Sounds like good management...everybody wins.
Peddling north we continued through the swamp for the next couple of hours. Then the trees appeared as the land started to solid up. Ranches and farm land with the exception of a small area near Esther where it looked like Everglades. An intriguing forest of pines appeared with water throughout the underbrush. Rather unique in the area.
Near Abbeville and east to New Iberia it was all rice and sugar cane. The sugar cane was impressive, growing as thick as a corn field and 8 to 10 feet high. I mistook sugar cane for corn in Texas. When sugar cane is young it looks similar.
A local told us the rice fields are flooded for the crop and then after harvest crawfish are put in the field. The crawfish eat the rice straw and are harvested when they mature. Ultimate efficiency.
The Safari
October 5th/09 - Pecan Island, LA
Mileage: 123 km
Total mileage: 4,686 km
We are camped tonight in an RV Park in Pecan Island. Again, Pecan Island is not really an island, it is a ridge which was pushed up in the middle of the marsh. One of the locals told us this ridge which the town is on, was pushed up by an ancient hurricane.
Travelling and camping thus far in Louisiana and on the Bolivar Peninsula has been tough. Services either don't exist having been destroyed, or are only half way built back, possibly functional, possibly not. I just keep telling myself while travelling through here that we have it a whole lot easier than these people have had it over the past year.
These last two RV Parks have not really been RV parks. They seem to have been set up in haste for contractors and don't have washrooms or showers. Yes, Princess is getting a little rank again. All the contractors have their self contained units.
Tough start to the morning. No coffee...(or breakfast, or bathroom :( ) Johnsons Bayou's store and gas station had both been blown away. Cycled 50 km to Cameron. Gas station had been rebuilt and was functioning. Most other businesses in town were half way there. The two restaurants were functioning from trailers. Drank up, had a bite to eat and continued on.
Miles and miles of beautiful yard sites with empty cement pads, or empty pilings where houses used to be. A few have been rebuilt, most have not. A local told us that a lot of people won't rebuild because new building codes make it cost prohibitive. As a result a lot of these lots now have 5th wheels or trailers on them.
Grave yards were not untouched either. Deby and I cycled by several where the graves were damaged, some of the caskets had obviously floated up, lost forever in the marsh.
On the lighter side, we stopped at the library at Grand Chenier. The library consisted of a double wide. We stopped here to ask where the store was. We conversed with the staff for a while as they were very interested in our trip and shared information about their area. One of the ladies ended up taking our photo for the town paper.
We continued on for 50 km between Grand Chenier and Pecan Island. This part of the ride was totally through marsh including the Rockefeller Sate Wildlife Refuge. Absolutely beautiful, bayous throughout and canals along side the road.
Something you don't see or hear from a car are the alligators. We saw alligators in the ditch beside us and constantly heard them pounding through the reeds and into the water as we passed by. There are lots of them. The staff at the library told us we would see them today because on warm clear days they come out to sun themselves.
Turtles jumping off of every log, snakes slithering, birds of every size and color. It was like a safari. The swamp surely is an awesome place. Just as people fall in love with the desert, I can see how people fall in love with the swamp.
Mileage: 123 km
Total mileage: 4,686 km
We are camped tonight in an RV Park in Pecan Island. Again, Pecan Island is not really an island, it is a ridge which was pushed up in the middle of the marsh. One of the locals told us this ridge which the town is on, was pushed up by an ancient hurricane.
Travelling and camping thus far in Louisiana and on the Bolivar Peninsula has been tough. Services either don't exist having been destroyed, or are only half way built back, possibly functional, possibly not. I just keep telling myself while travelling through here that we have it a whole lot easier than these people have had it over the past year.
These last two RV Parks have not really been RV parks. They seem to have been set up in haste for contractors and don't have washrooms or showers. Yes, Princess is getting a little rank again. All the contractors have their self contained units.
Tough start to the morning. No coffee...(or breakfast, or bathroom :( ) Johnsons Bayou's store and gas station had both been blown away. Cycled 50 km to Cameron. Gas station had been rebuilt and was functioning. Most other businesses in town were half way there. The two restaurants were functioning from trailers. Drank up, had a bite to eat and continued on.
Miles and miles of beautiful yard sites with empty cement pads, or empty pilings where houses used to be. A few have been rebuilt, most have not. A local told us that a lot of people won't rebuild because new building codes make it cost prohibitive. As a result a lot of these lots now have 5th wheels or trailers on them.
Grave yards were not untouched either. Deby and I cycled by several where the graves were damaged, some of the caskets had obviously floated up, lost forever in the marsh.
On the lighter side, we stopped at the library at Grand Chenier. The library consisted of a double wide. We stopped here to ask where the store was. We conversed with the staff for a while as they were very interested in our trip and shared information about their area. One of the ladies ended up taking our photo for the town paper.
We continued on for 50 km between Grand Chenier and Pecan Island. This part of the ride was totally through marsh including the Rockefeller Sate Wildlife Refuge. Absolutely beautiful, bayous throughout and canals along side the road.
Something you don't see or hear from a car are the alligators. We saw alligators in the ditch beside us and constantly heard them pounding through the reeds and into the water as we passed by. There are lots of them. The staff at the library told us we would see them today because on warm clear days they come out to sun themselves.
Turtles jumping off of every log, snakes slithering, birds of every size and color. It was like a safari. The swamp surely is an awesome place. Just as people fall in love with the desert, I can see how people fall in love with the swamp.
The deluge
October 4th/09 - Johnson Bayou, Louisiana
Radon RV Park
Mileage: 133 km
Total mileage: 4,563 km
Tonight we are camped in Johnson Bayou, LA. The campground is gravel which puts it just barely above the bayou. There has been so much rain here lately that we had to find a high spot in the gravel to put the tent on and the corners of our small 2 man tent are almost in the water. A lady in one of the 5th wheels here said there are lots of domestic cats and alligators around, but the alligators probably wouldn't bother us. I hope the alligators are more civil than the tortoise was between Encinal and Alice.
Johnson Bayou suffered greatly from hurricane Ike as well. A local told us that her and her husband lost everything in hurricane Rita, and then while rebuilding, lost everything they had gained in hurricane Ike. Now she said that they live in a 5th wheel on their lot and are prepared to evacuate anytime the need arises. This whole area has been devastated, not just once but twice.
Setting up the tent, a deluge from no where came down. The rain continued on and off throughout the evening and we did some creative drying inside with the shammy and cook stove. It ended up quite comfortable, but steamy.
We started our day with the wind at our backs, leaving Crystal Beach. A fast ride along the sea to High Island. High Island is not actually an Island, but at one time must have been a massive rogue dune. The town is built on this hill which appears out of nowhere. High Island did not suffer any hurricane damage as a result, which begs the question, "Why doesn't everybody else build here?"
We continued on with the wind, to Winnie. Moving inland the trees again began to get larger, and by Winnie, there was large growths of what appeared to be Ponderosa Pine. We hadn't seen pines in a long, long time.
From Winnie to Port Arthur, we again noted large parcels of ranch and farm land. At one point, and only one point, we noticed one farm yard with a beautiful hedge of caragana trees. In all our cycling we hadn't seen a caragana and thought that these people around here must think that this is quite an exotic bush. This farmer must be known locally as the 'crazy, try anything' guy.
We entered Port Arthur and found it to be quite the industrial city. In fact, riding through it to the south, the hwy leads right through the oil and gas refineries as if you were actually in them.
Leaving Port Arthur east bound we travelled up and over the Sabine River. At the top of the bridge, the first monsoon hit. It rained so hard that we should have had our shampoo out. Again, the water was so warm it was quite pleasant. As we rode on, the winds that we created cycling dried us out for the next downpour.
Entering Louisiana the road narrowed to 2 lanes, no shoulders and bayous on both sides. Hwy 82 was lightly travelled and very peaceful.
Rodes were premium today. Almost all new pavement with the wind behind us throughout. Record time!!
Radon RV Park
Mileage: 133 km
Total mileage: 4,563 km
Tonight we are camped in Johnson Bayou, LA. The campground is gravel which puts it just barely above the bayou. There has been so much rain here lately that we had to find a high spot in the gravel to put the tent on and the corners of our small 2 man tent are almost in the water. A lady in one of the 5th wheels here said there are lots of domestic cats and alligators around, but the alligators probably wouldn't bother us. I hope the alligators are more civil than the tortoise was between Encinal and Alice.
Johnson Bayou suffered greatly from hurricane Ike as well. A local told us that her and her husband lost everything in hurricane Rita, and then while rebuilding, lost everything they had gained in hurricane Ike. Now she said that they live in a 5th wheel on their lot and are prepared to evacuate anytime the need arises. This whole area has been devastated, not just once but twice.
Setting up the tent, a deluge from no where came down. The rain continued on and off throughout the evening and we did some creative drying inside with the shammy and cook stove. It ended up quite comfortable, but steamy.
We started our day with the wind at our backs, leaving Crystal Beach. A fast ride along the sea to High Island. High Island is not actually an Island, but at one time must have been a massive rogue dune. The town is built on this hill which appears out of nowhere. High Island did not suffer any hurricane damage as a result, which begs the question, "Why doesn't everybody else build here?"
We continued on with the wind, to Winnie. Moving inland the trees again began to get larger, and by Winnie, there was large growths of what appeared to be Ponderosa Pine. We hadn't seen pines in a long, long time.
From Winnie to Port Arthur, we again noted large parcels of ranch and farm land. At one point, and only one point, we noticed one farm yard with a beautiful hedge of caragana trees. In all our cycling we hadn't seen a caragana and thought that these people around here must think that this is quite an exotic bush. This farmer must be known locally as the 'crazy, try anything' guy.
We entered Port Arthur and found it to be quite the industrial city. In fact, riding through it to the south, the hwy leads right through the oil and gas refineries as if you were actually in them.
Leaving Port Arthur east bound we travelled up and over the Sabine River. At the top of the bridge, the first monsoon hit. It rained so hard that we should have had our shampoo out. Again, the water was so warm it was quite pleasant. As we rode on, the winds that we created cycling dried us out for the next downpour.
Entering Louisiana the road narrowed to 2 lanes, no shoulders and bayous on both sides. Hwy 82 was lightly travelled and very peaceful.
Rodes were premium today. Almost all new pavement with the wind behind us throughout. Record time!!
Weather forecasting
October 3rd/09 - Crystal Beach, TX
Crystal Palace Hotel
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 4,430 km
From Surfside we cycled north along the coast to the Galveston Island Bridge. Again, we cycled into a headwind. Slow going. We began to see hurricane damage from hurricane Ike which occurred in September 08. Mostly just damage in this area, not total destruction.
Just prior to the bridge we stopped at a roadside store for some refreshments. Here I learned from one of the locals that a six pack of beer and a joint would be good medicine for my back problem. I think I'll stick with Advil unless it gets really, really bad.
As we drank our coffee, I looked at a cloud mass coming from the south east. It looked ugly so we decided to stay at the store until it passed.
We have learned from locals and from experience, that this is definitely the rainy season along the Gulf shore. We have also learned that the weather here does not seem to come in as a front but comes in as localized cloud masses, which can pack quite a punch. Not all areas will get these showers, but all areas will get some at one time or another. In any case, the cloud hit us and a pounding rain ensued. The rain was more or less over in about 20 minutes as expected. That's usually as long as these showers last.
Proud of our new found weather forecasting expertise we left the store, somewhat dry and began cycling across the bridge toward Galveston. We weren't quite smart enough to realize that the cloud we had avoided was also north bound and we cycled into it. Unless we were to stop cycling for the day, we would have to continue in the rain which we did. Luckily the rain is warm and not so uncomfortable anyway.
Galveston Island is very scenic, passing among huge beach homes and fancy condominiums. Again, little to no protection. People don't seem to learn from experience. 26 years ago when I had cycled this area a hurricane had wiped this entire area out.
We cycled along the sea wall at Galveston, noting repair work that was still going on from Ike last fall.
Pretty city, lots of people enjoying their Saturday on the beach.
We took the Bolivar Ferry to the Bolivar Peninsula. From here we continued to cycle along the coast, now in a north east direction.
The Bolivar Peninsula was hit very hard by hurricane Ike. We learned from a local that, just on the Peninsula, 3,600 homes were either totally demolished or damaged beyond repair. From the local paper we learned that Ike took 10 lives and an additional 4 people went missing and haven't been located. Lots of devastation could be seen. Repairs were in the works and as we travelled we could see lots and lots of pilings where houses had been. One of the locals who was rebuilding told us that after the devastation, trucks hauled debris 24 hours a day for days on end. I didn't ask, but wanted to, why they were rebuilding there??
We stayed at the Crystal Palace Hotel, which was not a 'Palace' at all. It was a dive, but it was our only choice since Ike had wiped out all the hotels and only a portion of this place was open. So it was our home for the night, having made a wise decision to stay out of the weather. The incoming clouds from the Gulf were black and stacked up to the heavens. During the night there was a horrendous storm, but we had gotten dry after our cycle in the rain and stayed dry.
Deby was not as impressed with the local paper as the paper was with a local youngster's trophy Alligator kill. This young fella shot a 10' 8" alligator in the area we were riding through. Something Deb probably would have been better off not reading about or seeing the picture of!
Crystal Palace Hotel
Mileage: 104 km
Total mileage: 4,430 km
From Surfside we cycled north along the coast to the Galveston Island Bridge. Again, we cycled into a headwind. Slow going. We began to see hurricane damage from hurricane Ike which occurred in September 08. Mostly just damage in this area, not total destruction.
Just prior to the bridge we stopped at a roadside store for some refreshments. Here I learned from one of the locals that a six pack of beer and a joint would be good medicine for my back problem. I think I'll stick with Advil unless it gets really, really bad.
As we drank our coffee, I looked at a cloud mass coming from the south east. It looked ugly so we decided to stay at the store until it passed.
We have learned from locals and from experience, that this is definitely the rainy season along the Gulf shore. We have also learned that the weather here does not seem to come in as a front but comes in as localized cloud masses, which can pack quite a punch. Not all areas will get these showers, but all areas will get some at one time or another. In any case, the cloud hit us and a pounding rain ensued. The rain was more or less over in about 20 minutes as expected. That's usually as long as these showers last.
Proud of our new found weather forecasting expertise we left the store, somewhat dry and began cycling across the bridge toward Galveston. We weren't quite smart enough to realize that the cloud we had avoided was also north bound and we cycled into it. Unless we were to stop cycling for the day, we would have to continue in the rain which we did. Luckily the rain is warm and not so uncomfortable anyway.
Galveston Island is very scenic, passing among huge beach homes and fancy condominiums. Again, little to no protection. People don't seem to learn from experience. 26 years ago when I had cycled this area a hurricane had wiped this entire area out.
We cycled along the sea wall at Galveston, noting repair work that was still going on from Ike last fall.
Pretty city, lots of people enjoying their Saturday on the beach.
We took the Bolivar Ferry to the Bolivar Peninsula. From here we continued to cycle along the coast, now in a north east direction.
The Bolivar Peninsula was hit very hard by hurricane Ike. We learned from a local that, just on the Peninsula, 3,600 homes were either totally demolished or damaged beyond repair. From the local paper we learned that Ike took 10 lives and an additional 4 people went missing and haven't been located. Lots of devastation could be seen. Repairs were in the works and as we travelled we could see lots and lots of pilings where houses had been. One of the locals who was rebuilding told us that after the devastation, trucks hauled debris 24 hours a day for days on end. I didn't ask, but wanted to, why they were rebuilding there??
We stayed at the Crystal Palace Hotel, which was not a 'Palace' at all. It was a dive, but it was our only choice since Ike had wiped out all the hotels and only a portion of this place was open. So it was our home for the night, having made a wise decision to stay out of the weather. The incoming clouds from the Gulf were black and stacked up to the heavens. During the night there was a horrendous storm, but we had gotten dry after our cycle in the rain and stayed dry.
Deby was not as impressed with the local paper as the paper was with a local youngster's trophy Alligator kill. This young fella shot a 10' 8" alligator in the area we were riding through. Something Deb probably would have been better off not reading about or seeing the picture of!
Back to the Gulf
October 2/09 - Surfside, TX
Surfside RV Park
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 4,326 km
This morning we had brunch with Greg and Abby before parting ways. "Brunch, is nout breakfast, is nout lunch, but is a very good meal with a slice of cantaloupe at the end." Any quote in this blog taken from The Simpson's is strictly taken without permission.
At about noon we left Bay City cycling into a strong headwind, using lots of steam. Deby and I had both come down with colds, however this seems to be the best country for the treatment of that ailment. There is no such thing as a dry cough with this humidity. We were both hacking up phlem everywhere. Lucky thing we weren't cycling in a group.
Again, we took Texas farm roads. Very well kept and lightly travelled. We pushed on to the junction near Lake Jackson, many small attractive communities in between. Very large Texas shade trees here, pastures and farming.
From the Lake Jackson area we went east back to the Gulf.
Pushing into the wind the trees began to disappear and the land flattened out into a sort of marsh. We cycled on toward Freeport and near the Gulf this area became very industrial. My Princess got a little testy here. (Did he mention how windy it was and that he got tired of going slow so no more wind break for me!!! Yup, got testy!) It was a hard day and navigating through this industrial area seemed to take forever. Finally, we crossed the bridges and came down to the coastal community of Surfside.
Surfside is a community on stilts on a sandbar. Absolutely no protection from the sea here. Amazing where people choose to live and/or build vacation homes. It appears that years ago already, the natural dunes must have been flattened out so that people could get closer to the water, destroying what little protection there originally was.
We could have stayed on the beach for free, but had no desire to para sail in our tent, so chose the RV Park where there was some wind protection. It was a nice stay.
Surfside RV Park
Mileage: 80 km
Total mileage: 4,326 km
This morning we had brunch with Greg and Abby before parting ways. "Brunch, is nout breakfast, is nout lunch, but is a very good meal with a slice of cantaloupe at the end." Any quote in this blog taken from The Simpson's is strictly taken without permission.
At about noon we left Bay City cycling into a strong headwind, using lots of steam. Deby and I had both come down with colds, however this seems to be the best country for the treatment of that ailment. There is no such thing as a dry cough with this humidity. We were both hacking up phlem everywhere. Lucky thing we weren't cycling in a group.
Again, we took Texas farm roads. Very well kept and lightly travelled. We pushed on to the junction near Lake Jackson, many small attractive communities in between. Very large Texas shade trees here, pastures and farming.
From the Lake Jackson area we went east back to the Gulf.
Pushing into the wind the trees began to disappear and the land flattened out into a sort of marsh. We cycled on toward Freeport and near the Gulf this area became very industrial. My Princess got a little testy here. (Did he mention how windy it was and that he got tired of going slow so no more wind break for me!!! Yup, got testy!) It was a hard day and navigating through this industrial area seemed to take forever. Finally, we crossed the bridges and came down to the coastal community of Surfside.
Surfside is a community on stilts on a sandbar. Absolutely no protection from the sea here. Amazing where people choose to live and/or build vacation homes. It appears that years ago already, the natural dunes must have been flattened out so that people could get closer to the water, destroying what little protection there originally was.
We could have stayed on the beach for free, but had no desire to para sail in our tent, so chose the RV Park where there was some wind protection. It was a nice stay.
Blessing
October 1/09 - Bay City, TX
La Quinta Hotel
Mileage: 88 km
Total mileage: 4,246 km
Beautiful calm morning. Left Port Lavaca with the sun shining. Crossed the bay of Port Lavaca over an approximately 1.5 mile bridge. North of the bay it was fairly industrial, but then increasingly turned into ranching country.
Our travels took us away from the Gulf and the trees began to get bigger. We turned west on a Texas farm road heading for Blessing, TX. What Texas calls farm roads are far from what we think of as farm roads and are actually what we would think of as main hwys. In fact, some of the smoothest and most effortless travelling that we have had has been on these roads.
En route to Blessing there was beautiful agricultural land and pasture land. Farm yards were pretty to pass by as they were surrounded by huge Texas shade trees.
We entered Blessing and found it to be a quaint and humble town in appearance. Again, with its large trees, smaller homes, and main street, it appeared like a refreshing step back in time. Aptly named.
After lunch in Blessing, we cycled on to Bay City. Bay City is quite large. We got a room at the La Quinta Hotel and met up with my brother and sister-in-law, Greg and Abby. Greg and Abby were on their way home to Misson, TX from a vacation in New Orleans. We went out for supper together and then spent a nice evening visiting at the hotel.
La Quinta Hotel
Mileage: 88 km
Total mileage: 4,246 km
Beautiful calm morning. Left Port Lavaca with the sun shining. Crossed the bay of Port Lavaca over an approximately 1.5 mile bridge. North of the bay it was fairly industrial, but then increasingly turned into ranching country.
Our travels took us away from the Gulf and the trees began to get bigger. We turned west on a Texas farm road heading for Blessing, TX. What Texas calls farm roads are far from what we think of as farm roads and are actually what we would think of as main hwys. In fact, some of the smoothest and most effortless travelling that we have had has been on these roads.
En route to Blessing there was beautiful agricultural land and pasture land. Farm yards were pretty to pass by as they were surrounded by huge Texas shade trees.
We entered Blessing and found it to be a quaint and humble town in appearance. Again, with its large trees, smaller homes, and main street, it appeared like a refreshing step back in time. Aptly named.
After lunch in Blessing, we cycled on to Bay City. Bay City is quite large. We got a room at the La Quinta Hotel and met up with my brother and sister-in-law, Greg and Abby. Greg and Abby were on their way home to Misson, TX from a vacation in New Orleans. We went out for supper together and then spent a nice evening visiting at the hotel.
Fishin everywhere
September 30/09 - Port Lavaca, TX
Port Lavaca City Campground
Mileage: 112 km
Total mileage: 4,158 km
Started the day off by taking a short ferry ride to the main land. From there we cycled west to Aransas Pass. This area is full of shallow bays and tidal ponds. Very marshy. Every shore everywhere has a fisherman on it and boats of every description are on the waters. Fishing is obviously a big past time as every truck has a boat behind it with rods hanging out like a game of pick-up sticks. Day before yesterday, Deby almost got snagged by a passing truck. Hmmm, catch or release...
At Aransas Pass we headed north on Hwy 35. Mostly marshy cattle ranching. I bet there were lots of cattle stuck out there. Heading inland a bit though, the ranches did dry up.
We entered Rockport, a very pretty city, back on the coast. RV country. Lots and lots of RV parks here for what locals call 'Winter Texans'.
Travelling north, about 10 miles south of Trivoli, the farming started. Big, big farms just like the area west of Corpus Christi. The farms continued with the exception of a bayou or two all the way to Port Lavaca.
We are camped tonight at Port Lavaca on a bay of the Gulf of Mexico. Nice travelling day. Overcast skies, tailwind and smooth roads.
Port Lavaca City Campground
Mileage: 112 km
Total mileage: 4,158 km
Started the day off by taking a short ferry ride to the main land. From there we cycled west to Aransas Pass. This area is full of shallow bays and tidal ponds. Very marshy. Every shore everywhere has a fisherman on it and boats of every description are on the waters. Fishing is obviously a big past time as every truck has a boat behind it with rods hanging out like a game of pick-up sticks. Day before yesterday, Deby almost got snagged by a passing truck. Hmmm, catch or release...
At Aransas Pass we headed north on Hwy 35. Mostly marshy cattle ranching. I bet there were lots of cattle stuck out there. Heading inland a bit though, the ranches did dry up.
We entered Rockport, a very pretty city, back on the coast. RV country. Lots and lots of RV parks here for what locals call 'Winter Texans'.
Travelling north, about 10 miles south of Trivoli, the farming started. Big, big farms just like the area west of Corpus Christi. The farms continued with the exception of a bayou or two all the way to Port Lavaca.
We are camped tonight at Port Lavaca on a bay of the Gulf of Mexico. Nice travelling day. Overcast skies, tailwind and smooth roads.
Day off
September 29/09 - Port Aransas, TX
Spent the day enjoying Port Aransas. Updated our blog at the public library and toured around on our bicycles.
Huge wind arose with a tumultuous downpour, while we were in the library. We waited it out and were on our way. When we got back to our campground our tent was flat, sleeping bags soaked and our stuff had blown all over the place. Tough camping country.
We gathered up our stuff, I bent tent poles back into shape and replaced some shock cords. All is well. Saskatchewan type winds here except its warm, there are palm trees and the sound and smell of the ocean.
Tomorrow we ride.
Thank you all for reading our blog. It's nice to know our old friends and new friends are along with us. Thank you for your comments. I can't tell you how much encouragement they add. Sorry we can't get back to you. When we do find a computer we are usually rushed and there is almost always a lineup behind us. Thank you again! No one is more important than friends and family.
Spent the day enjoying Port Aransas. Updated our blog at the public library and toured around on our bicycles.
Huge wind arose with a tumultuous downpour, while we were in the library. We waited it out and were on our way. When we got back to our campground our tent was flat, sleeping bags soaked and our stuff had blown all over the place. Tough camping country.
We gathered up our stuff, I bent tent poles back into shape and replaced some shock cords. All is well. Saskatchewan type winds here except its warm, there are palm trees and the sound and smell of the ocean.
Tomorrow we ride.
Thank you all for reading our blog. It's nice to know our old friends and new friends are along with us. Thank you for your comments. I can't tell you how much encouragement they add. Sorry we can't get back to you. When we do find a computer we are usually rushed and there is almost always a lineup behind us. Thank you again! No one is more important than friends and family.
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